Please help me fix my cold and damp workshop

[MikeG.]

Triggaar,

what is the ground level like in your neighbours garden? Is it the same, higher or lower than in yours?

Mike

 

[Triggaaar]

It will collect in the bottom, and soak your bricks down there.....same moisture, but just concentrated in a smaller area. Super-wet bricks at and around ground level.

I didn't know that super wet bricks was a problem. I have bricks elsewhere below ground level (bottom of my front wall) and I thought they didn't mind being wet.

I've just read that the end wall is the same as this, and that seals the deal for me. You will never get ventilation around that corner to dry that wall out.

Again I didn't realise wet bricks were a problem?

fully fill a capped cavity with foam.

Wouldn't this basically make my wall attached to the boundary wall and cause structural concerns? My foundations and wall are solid, the boundary walls will not be, and they no doubt move.

 

[Triggaaar]

what is the ground level like in your neighbours garden? Is it the same, higher or lower than in yours?

About the same.

 

[Dibs-h]

fully fill a capped cavity with foam.

Wouldn't this basically make my wall attached to the boundary wall and cause structural concerns? My foundations and wall are solid, the boundary walls will not be, and they no doubt move.

I thought Mike had mentioned inserting some DPM into the gap against the boundary wall and then filling with foam between the DPM and your wall - the DPM stopping the foam from bonding with the boundary wall?

 

[Triggaaar]

Yes he did - it would stop them being stuck, so the boundary wall could move away from my wall, but if the boundary wall were moving towards my wall it would still push it I assume.

If it's as bad as this, it means the back wall of my guest house is in the same predicament. The back wall of the workshop and guest house are the same wall, and inch or two from the rear boundary for almost 9 metres. The only difference is that the guest house also has a cavity and inside wall, but there's still the issue of water dripping to the bottom.

 

[MikeG.]

edit: Advice removed ........I can't risk it.

 

[Dibs-h]

Yes he did - it would stop them being stuck, so the boundary wall could move away from my wall, but if the boundary wall were moving towards my wall it would still push it I assume.

If it's as bad as this, it means the back wall of my guest house is in the same predicament. The back wall of the workshop and guest house are the same wall, and inch or two from the rear boundary for almost 9 metres. The only difference is that the guest house also has a cavity and inside wall, but there's still the issue of water dripping to the bottom.

I think Matt's idea is cool. You could have something made up - zinc might be good - which would be fitted to the wall a bit like a drip bead, but would have a channel formed into the bottom (could even sit in the gap somewhat), and then render above it.

 

[pren]

I like the zinc idea as well.

I was thinking along the lines of having a 'J' shaped fitting made up that clads the upper section of the shed wall, with the lower 'cup' fitting between the shed wall and the boundary. Seal the lip to the boundary wall and fit an out flow to connect to the existing rain gutter. It would act as a shelter for the gap, leaving the ends open to alow airflow.

Yes, Mike. Still bored. :lol:

 

[matt]

With regard to the ventilation dilemma... Can I suggest you get a couple of those kids twirling fan thingies and push them in to the ground at both ends of the gap. You could then get some idea whether there is any airflow.

I'm wondering whether a solar powered fan might be enough to get things moving.

 

[matt]

edit: Advice removed ........I can't risk it.

Too late - I've saved the page. Now, about my extension... Architects are so expensive these days...

 

[billybuntus]

Not an expert but I'd be tempted to get a gutter made (zinc?) that attaches to the wall of the building and extends out slightly over the garden wall, thus preventing any rainfall going directly down between the building and the garden wall; whilst creating a channel for the rainfall hitting the wall to go in front or behind the building. Then render the wall, coming down over where the gutter is attached.

I'm also wondering whether air vents through the inside of the building would help ventilate. When the door/s are open the building acts like a funnel.

Sounds like a plan, then the cladding and water runoff would be aimed straight into the channel and it sealed to either wall wouldn't be a bodge

 

[johnf]

Who owns the boundary wall you need to seal the gap between the two at the top leave the ends open for ventilation

 

[liam8223]

Surely my solution was the cheapest, quickest and most proven? (10 of my 26 units have this system)

I always use corrugated steel sheet, but anything that doesn't let water through will work.

When I said paint the cladding I was referring to the steel cladding I had suggested.

If you pick a colour (or your neighbour picks a colour) that is pleasing and promise to maintain it (once a year would be ample) surely they won't mind?

No offence to any other members, but why over complicate and over engineer a simple-to-overcome problem?

I most certainly would not be attaching anything to the boundary wall, leave your building freestanding, I wouldn't want that boundary wall putting any stresses on my building!

Liam.

 

[Benchwayze]

You have a nightmare..

You should have put down a narrow wooden batten with wire attached at each end. As you built, the plugs of mortar could have been pulled up every now and then, the batten helping to clear the squeeze out too.

Bit late now though I fear. All that mortar down there will transmit damp through the bricks.

You need to rake it out if you can. Maybe one of those three pronged hoes, that look like chickens' feet?

For the squeeze out, screw a flat wallpaper scraper to a length of timber and see if you can remove the mortar that way.

Just had a thought... If maintenance of the boundary wall is your responsibility, I don't think anyone can stop you demolishing it and replacing it with a substantial wooden fence; as long as you fence away from your property. Mike G will be able to correct me if I am wrong, but as far as I know, as long as you maintain the fence to a reasonable standard, and stay within height limits, you can use any kind of fencing you wish.

HTH
John

 

[johnf]

Surely my solution was the cheapest, quickest and most proven? (10 of my 26 units have this system)

I always use corrugated steel sheet, but anything that doesn't let water through will work.

When I said paint the cladding I was referring to the steel cladding I had suggested.

If you pick a colour (or your neighbour picks a colour) that is pleasing and promise to maintain it (once a year would be ample) surely they won't mind?

No offence to any other members, but why over complicate and over engineer a simple-to-overcome problem?

I most certainly would not be attaching anything to the boundary wall, leave your building freestanding, I wouldn't want that boundary wall putting any stresses on my building!

Liam.

Yes the steel sheet will waterproof the top part of the wall but it will still discharge water down the gap between the two walls thats where the damp problem is the sealing of this gap could be flexible with no strain on either wall

 

[liam8223]

In the original OP the problem was described as being driving rain saturating the brick.

Is there no blue brick course?

If yes then the water will be fine running into the gap.

If no then......... What benchwayze said!

On my buildings, the water ends up on the ground, BUT most, if not all the units have the concrete slab 6" above the outside ground level, so the water on the floor wont penetrate the blockwork.

Hope that makes sense, does in my head!

Liam.

 

[johnf]

ust look at the photo stop the water getting in the gap and you have a dry wall job done

 

[trousers]

you should have got an architect involved before you got in such a mess

It was designed by an architect......


:roll: :roll: :roll:

 

[Triggaaar]

Thank you all for your help.

I'd be tempted to get a gutter made (zinc?) that attaches to the wall of the building and extends out slightly over the garden wall, thus preventing any rainfall going directly down between the building and the garden wall; whilst creating a channel for the rainfall hitting the wall to go in front or behind the building. Then render the wall, coming down over where the gutter is attached.

This may be my best option. I don't know which would be cheaper, to render or clad (in oak) the top 3 feet, but as long as the result allowed the water to go onto the gutter it should work. Is zinc the best material for the job?

I was thinking along the lines of having a 'J' shaped fitting made up that clads the upper section of the shed wall, with the lower 'cup' fitting between the shed wall and the boundary. Seal the lip to the boundary wall and fit an out flow to connect to the existing rain gutter.

Thanks for the drawing. For asthetics I'd probably prefer the top to be either oak or render, rather than have zinc all the way up the wall. I'd probably have to do a more DIY version of your drawing

Can I suggest you get a couple of those kids twirling fan thingies and push them in to the ground at both ends of the gap.

I think there probably is some airflow, I can try your suggestion to see how much. Not sure how much is enough.

Who owns the boundary wall you need to seal the gap between the two at the top leave the ends open for ventilation

I believe it's shared. It's a 6 foot Edwardian wall, knocking it down is not an option.

Surely my solution was the cheapest, quickest and most proven? (10 of my 26 units have this system)

I've re read your idea Liam and I can't quite picture what it looks like. Is it much different to Matt's idea?

When I said paint the cladding I was referring to the steel cladding I had suggested.

If you pick a colour (or your neighbour picks a colour) that is pleasing and promise to maintain it (once a year would be ample) surely they won't mind?

I'd also like to avoid having to maintain this once a year. The neighbours plan to grow plants up the wall, so it just needs to act as a background, but can't be re-painted.

All that mortar down there will transmit damp through the bricks. You need to rake it out if you can. Maybe one of those three pronged hoes, that look like chickens' feet?

I don't think there's any way I'll be getting it out, it's solid and nigh on impossible to get at.

In the original OP the problem was described as being driving rain saturating the brick.

Is there no blue brick course?

I don't know what that means? It's the same bricks all the way down to a concrete slab, with a DPC a couple of bricks up.

On my buildings, the water ends up on the ground, BUT most, if not all the units have the concrete slab 6" above the outside ground level

Yeah that's not so easy when you're 2 inches from the neighbours wall.

It was designed by an architect......

:roll: :roll: :roll:

How would you have done it?

 

[MikeG.]

How would you have done it?

I can think of 4 or 5 ways that would have been better than what you ended up with. I have a sneaky feeling that you just got someone to draw up your plans, and that he wasn't an architect.

-

Your difficulty with overcladding the exposed wall is that you don't appear to have much of a roof overhang..........you are going to have to adjust your roof to make it overhang the new cladding.

I'm not getting involved. However, you really should seek professional advise about that part of your building works that is habitable. You say you have a guest wing contructed like this........you must, must get some proper advice, and get it sorted because what you have there is just a huge problem waiting for just the moment when you can least afford it.

Mike