picture framing clamp

[user 19915]

Hi i.m looking for a picture framing clamp easy to use and of good quality any recommendations
Mock

 

[rafezetter]

You could get by with a simple ratchet strap clamp - that's all a framing band clamp is plus some corner blocks which you might be able to make.

 

[marcros]

I have seen mitres clamped with a couple of 45 degree blocks and g clamps- something that I have intended to try. I dislike the band clamps, but to be honest usually fall back to them. They may be better for frames than for boxes, but I dislike having to set all corners at the same time, tune, tighten etc all with the same 2 hands and often with a clamp top and bottom.

This is the idea- https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=u5xQcO1D5g8

I have seen aluminium versions and slightly different designs. But I personally would make a shop version from timber.

Another variation here. https://woodgears.ca/frame/glue_miter.html

 

[MatthewRedStars]

Yep, I'd agree - strap clamp and then a small clamps on each mitre to keep them flush, I tend to use a 3" square pieces of MDF covered in parcel tape (to stop the glue sticking) to protect the work.

 

[HexusOdy]

Personally I dont like the strap clamps. The easiest way I have seen is with folding wedges.

Get a piece if plywood or MDF a little larger than your frame and lay the frame out. Then screw 8 wedges to the board (each side of each corner). Tap in a wedge on each until each corner is tight.

With this method you can make any size frame and costs nothing. I haven't tried it myself yet but looks simple enough.

 

[MatthewRedStars]

I'd like to see it in action... I'm always skeptical of methods that put pressure on the sides of the frame rather than directly onto the mitres. Which is why I like straps, they put the force where its wanted.

 

[JanetsBears]

For less than a tenner online or about £12-£13 from B&Q, a simple Stanley Band Clamp does a pretty good job, and as long as you support either the frame or the clamp (whichever is thinnest!) to keep the frame central within the clamp they're a doddle to use. Just tighten slightly, make any adjustments to the frame and then tighten a bit more, job done.

Chris

 

[Mr T]

I am actually gluing up a mitred box at the moment using mitred blocks similar to those on the youtube vid. I lilke to use these because you can see the whole of the joint to check it is nice and tight and the clamping pressure is at right angles to the gluing face. You can also check for square with a square rather than measuring diagonals because the clamping force will not distort the sides.

The main drawback is the number of clamps used. I could have glued this up in two parts, doing the diagonal corners first.

Chris

 

[custard]

I'd like to see it in action... I'm always skeptical of methods that put pressure on the sides of the frame rather than directly onto the mitres. Which is why I like straps, they put the force where its wanted.

I'm not so sure Matthew, try tightening a strap clamp hard on a thin frame and watch what happens...it bends the frame out into a circle and opens out the mitres! A strap clamp is good for coopered work, but for frames it's actually putting the force in the wrong direction. Nine times out of ten it works okay because the frame is a bit heavier, most strap clamps can't generate much force, and modern glues are pretty good. But for the best results there's no alternative to faffing around a bit to construct a method that applies the force perpendicular to the mitre line.

 

[Racers]

My strap clamps have corner blocks and work well for boxes and frames.

Pete

 

[merlin]

Hello Mock,

I do a fair bit of framing and use an underpinner, I always cramp the finished frame with a Veritas 4 way speed frame clamp ( code no - 05F01.20 ).
I have found it does what it is supposed to do very well.

Merlin

 

[AndyT]

I recently did a picture frame, about 18" × 14". Having rebated the framing and cut the mitres I followed the instructions in an old Woodworker article. This was to grip a length of moulding in the vice (a metalworking vice,) hold the next piece against it, with glue on but slightly out of line and nail the second piece onto the first. As you do this it slides down the mitre slightly and ends up in the right place. No clamps or specialist tools are needed.
It worked surprisingly well.

 

[dickm]

A very useful tool for this sort of thing is a Hirsch clamp. Basically, it's four metal legs with holes at intervals to take corner blocks. The legs are hinged in two pairs to metal plates which are joined by a longish bolt. Fit the corner blocks in appropriate holes, put the frame together sitting with the corners up against the blocks, then tighten the centre bolt. It works really well as the geometry means that the frame has to tighten up square (assuming you've cut the lengths right )
Not sure if they are still sold in the UK, but Google Hirsch Framing Clamp, and the first pic to come up shows it.

 

[Myfordman]

I saw this one on another forum only today

http://www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopi ... 202#p12200

Easily made as a diy project with some hardwood blocks and studding. seems simple enough and adjustable.

 

[rafezetter]

I saw this one on another forum only today

http://www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopi ... 202#p12200

Easily made as a diy project with some hardwood blocks and studding. seems simple enough and adjustable.

That's ingenious, works as a strap clamp and normal clamps all in one. Saved

 

[John Brown]

Is there some obvious reason why picture frames are not made in the manner of kitchen cabinet door frames, i.e. cope and stick?
A trifle off-topic, but just wondering...

 

[disco_monkey79]

I made several picture frame clamps, following plans online, but tend most frequently to use a band-type. Got it from Screwfix for about a tenner, but that was a little while ago now.

As previously stated, once it's under a bit of tension (i.e. enough for it to be held in the clamp, but whilst it's still possible to adjust), make sure the wood is centred midway within the corner pieces.

Also, another very simple but helpful thing to do (at least, I think so), is to lay out the pieces, lining thm up perfectly. Put a pencil mark accross each of the four joints, to indicate where they are neatly aligned.

I find that, once in the clamp, it's a lot easier to use those pencil marks to get the pieces lined up again. Trying to peer in to the corners of the clamp isn't easy (for me), and doing it that way has meant some poor results. Things improved once I started using the pencil marks.

Hope that made sense, and apologies if if's something everyone's doing already.

 

[custard]

This is Morso's solution to the problem, as with all things Morso it's massively over engineered which is probably why they didn't make them for very long!

The mitred frame is retained by the toothed cams (which nestle in the rebate so it's okay if they mar the surface), the mitres are brought together and aligned on a sliding carriage arrangement, and then the knobs on the left and right are tightened to apply pressure perpendicular to the glued joint.

I use a pair of these for large mirrors in tough hardwoods, where my underpinner isn't man enough for the job and the scale of the work demands a floating tenon to re-inforce the joint. Actually I'll often use multiple Dominos, biscuits and/or dowels. The reason is that it's not hard to get mitres perfect when they leave your workshop, but it's really, really difficult to ensure that, on large mitres especially, the job will still look perfect in twenty years time. As the wood swells and shrinks it's trying to open the mitre either at the inside or outside, and any mitre join in solid wood that's longer than about 30mm will need a lot of reinforcing to prevent minute gaps opening up in years to come.

 

[user 19915]

thank's for all the info ill leave you all know what i deice
mock

 

[GLFaria]

A very useful tool for this sort of thing is a Hirsch clamp. Basically, it's four metal legs with holes at intervals to take corner blocks. The legs are hinged in two pairs to metal plates which are joined by a longish bolt. Fit the corner blocks in appropriate holes, put the frame together sitting with the corners up against the blocks, then tighten the centre bolt. It works really well as the geometry means that the frame has to tighten up square (assuming you've cut the lengths right )
Not sure if they are still sold in the UK, but Google Hirsch Framing Clamp, and the first pic to come up shows it.

Rockler in the US makes something along the lines of the Hirsch clamp - maybe it's the same. There is also PDF file with instructions:
http://www.rockler.com/frame-clamp-kit

And you have a DIY version in http://sawdustmaking.com/Picture%20Fram ... _clamp.htm

G.