Now happy with the Table saw.

[artie]

Here's a short vid of The 10" table saw with a supposedly 3 hp motor and a newish blade cutting a piece of 47mm soft wood.
If I feed it any faster it bogs down, you can hear it slowing a few times.

 

[MikeK]

Considering the number of teeth on that blade, I think it's doing the best it can. You should try a blade with fewer teeth if you're going to be ripping lumber.

Edit: The blade on my saw is 315mm, and I use the 72-tooth for crosscut and plywood, a 48-tooth for general purpose, and the 28-tooth for ripping. I was lazy one day and had to rip a four-foot length of 50mm thick oak board with the 48-tooth blade. It didn't work well, so I had to put the 28-tooth blade on to rip without burning the wood.

 

[julianf]

I know very little, but most of my "3hp" items eat fuses when run on 13a sockets due to inrush on startup.

And, as above, less teeth.

 

[artie]

I know very little, but most of my "3hp" items eat fuses when run on 13a sockets due to inrush on startup.

And, as above, less teeth.

I have it on a 16 amp plug so fuses are not a problem.

The blade on my saw is 315mm, and I use the 72-tooth for crosscut and plywood, a 48-tooth for general purpose, and the 28-tooth for ripping. I was lazy one day and had to rip a four-foot length of 50mm thick oak board with the 48-tooth blade. It didn't work well, so I had to put the 28-tooth blade on to rip without burning the wood.

Simple thing for me to get a "less tooth" blade and I'll be very happy if that solves the prob.
47-50 mm is the biggest I rip except very occasionally.
How many teeth are recommended?

 

[Trevanion]

How many teeth are recommended?

16-24 at most! For quite fine rips in thinner material you can use a blade with upto about 40 teeth. Too many teeth mean the saw cannot clear the waste quick enough due to the small gullets, hence why you had the saw choke up a couple of times and try to kickback in the cut when going through knots, if not for the anti-kickback design it may have done. Geometry and tooth design also plays a big part in efficient saw cutting, for ripping cuts you want a blade with a positive rake of around 15 to 20-degrees, blades with numerous teeth may have less rake on them for cleaner cross-cutting which will make a blade terrible for ripping.

Try this one, it's a top-quality blade:

CMT 290 Rip sawblade D=250 B=2.8 d=30 z=24

 

[Sandyn]

What is the saw? Is it new? there is always the possibility of a fault. You can get really inexpensive plug in power monitors which would show what power the saw is consuming. A crude test, but might show a fault. I'm not endorsing this one, but just to show the type of unit I mean. I got mine from ALDI.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Decdeal-El...BH9GT8MZKVQ&psc=1&refRID=9XN1F4FVCBH9GT8MZKVQ

A couple of things to sanity check. I'm sure you will have already...have you inspected the teeth and confirmed they are still sharp or not clogged with aluminium if you hit the fence with that blade.

I think it's doing well for ripping 47mm soft wood, which can be stringy. As others have suggested, try a different blade, less teeth, but a quality one. I was using lower cost blades for a while and they were rubbish even when brand new.

 

[SamTheJarvis]

Looks fine to me. I've got a 4hp hammer and it's still pretty picky about matching material and blade. Ripping spruce can be much like sawing wool, it's fibres are more resistant to shear force and build up in the kerf. Wouldn't worry about it!

 

[Cabinetman]

I don’t think it’s doing well at all, I have a TA 315 Sedgwick and I just keep a general-purpose 48 tooth blade on it all the time and it would eat that for breakfast with no slowing down at all. What to recommend I don’t know, is it a blunt blade? Is the saw underpowered? I think it’s the latter. Ian

 

[Claud1]

Same as above with the TA 315 had it around 20 years one of the best machines I ever bought.

 

[Sandyn]

I use Freud blades in both my saws, but I have had problems with the blade on my mitre saw. It's a 305mm 96T blade. I have two of them. The first one whilst using, there was an almighty bang. I had no idea what happened. Had a look at the blade and saw, everything looked OK. Next cut, the finish was rubbish. On closer inspection, the blade had suffered a bent tooth, but I couldn't figure out what caused it. I really liked the blade. It cuts extremely well with a beautiful finish, so I got another. Lo and behold the same thing happened a couple of weeks later, but this time, I realised what had happened. I was cutting the end from a fairly small bit of wood and the off-cut, fell back into the blade, exploding with a mighty bang, bending a tooth. The solution is to keep the saw lowered until it stops. Which isn't such a hassle. I removed the bent teeth on both blades, ground them back to the blade thickness and they both work perfectly well. Finish is just as good as before and balance is fine. I complained to Freud, but they didn't bother to respond past the first reply. That really annoys me, when companies don't care!

I had a good look at the CMT blades, they look good and appear to be cheaper than Freud, so I will give them a try next blade. They give lots of scientific/technical information about their blades and teeth and I'm easily impressed with technical stuff, lol

 

[Sgian Dubh]

Here's a short vid of The 10" table saw with a supposedly 3 hp motor and a newish blade cutting a piece of 47mm soft wood.
If I feed it any faster it bogs down, you can hear it slowing a few times.

I've no idea of the horsepower of the saw, apart from what you say it is. The blade shown isn't ideal for ripping (combination maybe?), but not necessarily the worst I've seen, such as a HATB X cut blade with 60 - 80 teeth. I've seen saws bog down worse than that, but a dedicated rip blade would almost certainly be better, e.g., something like the one Trevanion linked you too.

However, what really caught my eye in the video was the rip fence set too short. The wood left the toe of the fence before the cut was completed. Set the front end of the fence a bit further forward so that the wood is trapped between it and the spinning blade until just after the cut is completed, and then the wood is released. Slainte.

 

[Jameshow]

Btw anyone care to comment on Saxton blades??

Seem good value on eBay.
My mitre saw needs a new blade 210mm thinking 40t

Cheers James

 

[MikeK]

I don’t think it’s doing well at all, I have a TA 315 Sedgwick and I just keep a general-purpose 48 tooth blade on it all the time and it would eat that for breakfast with no slowing down at all. What to recommend I don’t know, is it a blunt blade? Is the saw underpowered? I think it’s the latter. Ian

I think my 48-tooth blade would do well in this situation as well. However, there is a big difference in the teeth tip to tip spacing between a 315mm 48-tooth blade and a 254mm 48-tooth blade. Applying the tooth spacing of the 254mm blade to a 315mm blade is the equivalent of a 60 teeth on the 315mm blade.

 

[deema]

A 3HP motor equates to a 2.2KW motor, a good amount of power for the task. With this motor, if your clogging up the blade you should be experiencing push back where the timber suddenly gets ejected back at you, which is slightly different to kick back where the back of the blade picks up the stuff and throws it at you. Anyway, that’s a bit of semantic. What should not be happening is your bogging down the blade. Have a look at the motor, I suspect strongly that’s it a single capacitor motor where the cap serves to both start and run the motor. When starting you won’t hear a discernible click when the centrifugal switch actuated. This type of motor is cheap, and not really suitable for a table saw, but often fitted to hit a price point. Fitting a more suitable blade will improve matters.

The other potential issue is that if it has a separate start and run capacitor, the run capacitor needs replacing.

 

[artie]

What is the saw? Is it new? there is always the possibility of a fault. You can get really inexpensive plug in power monitors which would show what power the saw is consuming. A crude test, but might show a fault. I'm not endorsing this one, but just to show the type of unit I mean. I got mine from ALDI.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Decdeal-El...BH9GT8MZKVQ&psc=1&refRID=9XN1F4FVCBH9GT8MZKVQ

A couple of things to sanity check. I'm sure you will have already...have you inspected the teeth and confirmed they are still sharp or not clogged with aluminium if you hit the fence with that blade.

It's a jet JTS 600 series, 11 years old, I've had it for 5 or 6.
I'll get one of those meters, I guess if it's drawing too much or too little there's something wrong.
It's a newish blade never touched anything but wood. It did cut slightly better when brand new, but the cut is still silky smooth, just slower.

I don’t think it’s doing well at all, I have a TA 315 Sedgwick and I just keep a general-purpose 48 tooth blade on it all the time and it would eat that for breakfast with no slowing down at all. What to recommend I don’t know, is it a blunt blade? Is the saw underpowered? I think it’s the latter. Ian

I think it's the latter as well but others think it's fine.
I posted here for comments, so far there is a difference of opinion.
If it's as good as I can expect then I suppose I can be content with it. But if I had to spend to make it slice through, I could live with that.

However, what really caught my eye in the video was the rip fence set too short. The wood left the toe of the fence before the cut was completed. Set the front end of the fence a bit further forward so that the wood is trapped between it and the spinning blade until just after the cut is completed, and then the wood is released. Slainte.

Yes that is where the fence it usually placed, but I took it back a little last night to negate any possibility, no matter how slight, of binding.

 

[artie]

Try this one, it's a top-quality blade:

CMT 290 Rip sawblade D=250 B=2.8 d=30 z=24

I'll get one of those to try. Will never go to waste.

 

[artie]

A 3HP motor equates to a 2.2KW motor, a good amount of power for the task. With this motor, if your clogging up the blade you should be experiencing push back where the timber suddenly gets ejected back at you, which is slightly different to kick back where the back of the blade picks up the stuff and throws it at you. Anyway, that’s a bit of semantic. What should not be happening is your bogging down the blade. Have a look at the motor, I suspect strongly that’s it a single capacitor motor where the cap serves to both start and run the motor. When starting you won’t hear a discernible click when the centrifugal switch actuated. This type of motor is cheap, and not really suitable for a table saw, but often fitted to hit a price point. Fitting a more suitable blade will improve matters.

The other potential issue is that if it has a separate start and run capacitor, the run capacitor needs replacing.

There's one cap to be seen. A 400v 20 uf recently replaced. I had a guy test it, he said it was showing 16 uf so I replaced it. Made no difference.

 

[Fitzroy]

I think I have the same blade, mine is a 40 tooth 10” Freud blade. My saw has a 2hp 1.5kW motor. It’s a Wadkin 10AGS with a replacement Clark motor. Blade is 12months old with some, but not lots, of wood miles on it.

Mine happily chewed through a piece of 55mm white wood.



Please note:
1. This is a terrible example of how to use a table saw.
2. Yes I nearly shot the piece of wood off the saw
3. Yes it was lined up with a window, close one!

Not saying you’re using the right blade but I think there is more to it than that.

Fitz

 

[artie]

Thanks Fitz, thats what I was hoping someone would do.

This is my blade.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Freu...var=540291061057&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648
Less than a month old, which for me is practically brand new.

 

[Blister]

The timber you are cutting may have a high resin content ( Sticky / grippy ) as said fewer teath and good quality , I would go for the CMT one mentioned earlier , Super price at just £20