HOJ
Established Member
I wouldn't take it on if I couldn't do it all as a whole, frame as well, be an absolute pain other wise.Like that you are making the thing as a whole unit to fit (hopefully)
I wouldn't take it on if I couldn't do it all as a whole, frame as well, be an absolute pain other wise.Like that you are making the thing as a whole unit to fit (hopefully)
Is it American White Oak?95% percent of my work is with Oak, as is this.
All Euro OakIs it American White Oak?
The camera lies, its only about 14 meters long, I have got PIR insulation fix under the rafters as there isn't any felt under the tiles, but never had a problem with rain, but a pain if it snows.How long is that cattle shed? Looks huge, plenty of space to make doors in. Lovely, but needs a ceiling and insulation/heating.
To be honest I don't work on that basis, I get a price as a lump sum, for a given cut list, including delivery, so its not necessarily worked to a cu ft rate, I could work it out if I measured the boards, when I actually receive them.if you don’t mind me asking roughly what gas it got to now for cubic foot?
Its a Sedgwick triple, I do use it to scribe, but only if I have a running batch of the same to do, otherwise I'll do them by hand, however I also sometimes set it up and use the bottom head to do a scribe cut and use the third head for cutting a finger type joint with 10 mm groover.Is it a Tesh 2 or 3 you have? How much do you use the third head if you have it?
Yes I would love a spindle moulder with a power drive one day I’ll have one. Door looks great!Finished machining this lot of skirting up, about 160mtrs all in:
View attachment 194021
Don't you just love a spindle moulder with a power drive:
View attachment 194022
watching with great interest as hoping to make my own front door and frame etc soon. What oil do you use? How many coats etc? I'm tried of flaking paint (which ultimately must end up in my garden) so I am keen to go the oil/wax route as much as poss.Oiled all the parts that cannot be reached, glue up this week if I can get the shop up to temp.
View attachment 193944
To be honest I'm not keen on applying anything to Oak, however the clients always right!, so in this case its Osmo oil, and on the understanding it will need another coat in 3 months time, when its weathered a bit, and then an annual clean down and recoat, another point is, Osmo oil does not like horizontal surfaces, sills and bottom beads tend to fail early on, so I make my slopes at 18 degrees, rather than the usual 7 to 9.What oil do you use? How many coats etc?
Its all very simple joinery, just mortice and tenon stuff, just on a bigger scale and weight.Very very good, way past my skill level.
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