Next up: Oak doors

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Slight workshop envy creeping in as well!
Just to add some context, how it was when I took it on:

shop 1.jpg

And now looking from the other end:

shop.jpg


It's a drafty, grade 2 listed, cattle shed, long and narrow, which can be challenging, but in an ideal location.
 
Update to add some progress pics on the latest job.

I had already made the frame for this door, so onto the door, stiles and rails machined all M & T'd:

D.jpg D1.jpg

Machined up the infill panels, all with a tongue on, ready to go into grooves in the top rail, stile's and muntins, I make a rod to work out their width, based on the narrowest board, which then dictates the width of the muntins, so just a dry fit:

D2.jpg

Dry fit of the muntins M & T'd into top and bottom rails:

D3.jpg

Will get on with cutting all the grooves for the boards to fit into, tomorrow, not sure when I'll glue it up, only got up to 8 degrees in the shop today..
 
It’s been a while since I last bought any oak, if you don’t mind me asking roughly what gas it got to now for cubic foot? I’m assuming your using European oak?
 
Is it a Tesh 2 or 3 you have? How much do you use the third head if you have it? I have a Tesh 3 but had a Multico before so I have a lot of 55mm scribes so don’t get much useage out of the third head at the mo……equally don’t make much these days, most now tinkering with machines😜
 
Is it American White Oak?
All Euro Oak

How long is that cattle shed? Looks huge, plenty of space to make doors in. Lovely, but needs a ceiling and insulation/heating.
The camera lies, its only about 14 meters long, I have got PIR insulation fix under the rafters as there isn't any felt under the tiles, but never had a problem with rain, but a pain if it snows.

I have a woodburner and use a diesel jet heater to get it up to a workable temperature but 10 degrees is fine for me, you get used to it.

if you don’t mind me asking roughly what gas it got to now for cubic foot?
To be honest I don't work on that basis, I get a price as a lump sum, for a given cut list, including delivery, so its not necessarily worked to a cu ft rate, I could work it out if I measured the boards, when I actually receive them.

Is it a Tesh 2 or 3 you have? How much do you use the third head if you have it?
Its a Sedgwick triple, I do use it to scribe, but only if I have a running batch of the same to do, otherwise I'll do them by hand, however I also sometimes set it up and use the bottom head to do a scribe cut and use the third head for cutting a finger type joint with 10 mm groover.

Tenoner.jpg scribe.jpg

Couldn't live without it to be honest with the amount of tenons I cut, rather than use domino..
 
Oiled all the parts that cannot be reached, glue up this week if I can get the shop up to temp.

View attachment 193944
watching with great interest as hoping to make my own front door and frame etc soon. What oil do you use? How many coats etc? I'm tried of flaking paint (which ultimately must end up in my garden) so I am keen to go the oil/wax route as much as poss.
 
What oil do you use? How many coats etc?
To be honest I'm not keen on applying anything to Oak, however the clients always right!, so in this case its Osmo oil, and on the understanding it will need another coat in 3 months time, when its weathered a bit, and then an annual clean down and recoat, another point is, Osmo oil does not like horizontal surfaces, sills and bottom beads tend to fail early on, so I make my slopes at 18 degrees, rather than the usual 7 to 9.
Very very good, way past my skill level.
Its all very simple joinery, just mortice and tenon stuff, just on a bigger scale and weight.


And thanks all for the (y) wishing you all season's greetings.
 

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