New workshop for 2020

[DBT85]

I see you, taking it easy. Slacker!

At least you can use the time to get the little jobs done that achieve little but take hours and hours!

 

[Sheptonphil]

I see you, taking it easy. Slacker!

At least you can use the time to get the little jobs done that achieve little but take hours and hours!

Yes, the fiddly bits, even fitting a simple door lining, fixing it and hanging the door took three hours. Guess I’m being too fussy sometimes, but I’ll know where the bits are that aren’t just right and they will always bug me. It’s quite satisfying doing three or four smaller jobs rather than one big slog of a task (like concreting)

Did think of popping by yours in the morning for a bit of concrete tamping, second thoughts, I’ll just watch the time lapse video. (There will be a time lapse video won’t there?)

All kicks off again here Thursday with the plasterboard, then straight on to the cladding. Yours is looking real good.

 

[DBT85]

There will be a time lapse don't worry. I'll just put one together that covers everything from the type going in right up to the final bit of the concrete.

Is your cladding the same all over or only fire proof on the boundary?

 

[Sheptonphil]

There will be a time lapse don't worry. I'll just put one together that covers everything from the type going in right up to the final bit of the concrete.

Is your cladding the same all over or only fire proof on the boundary?

Fireproof all over for consistent look. I had to do fireproof for the first metre. That would have to be two metres to the door jamb, then the door, that left another metre to the house wall. It wouldn’t look right having one side of the door different to the other, same for the back. The largest wall, the gable end, is against the boundary and that is sixty percent of the cladding.

 

[Sheptonphil]

Back to a working project rather than playing around with fiddly bits.

The plasterboard and roof insulation turned up at 11am, on a 30 tonne lorry that had no chance of access to the property
I was expecting kerb drop on an eleven tonner and handball to the pavement, where I could carry it the 60 metres to the workshop one board at a time.

But!!!


It had a Moffett.

Although he parked 300 yds away, the Moffett meant he was able to drop it on my driveway, 20yds from my build. Superb delivery from a company that was half the cost of anyone else for plasterboard. I used online insulation

I underestimated the weight of a sheet of acoustic plasterboard, it’s about twice the weight of standard. Luckily I only had six of those, I struggled even for the 20 yards into the workshop. The standard were easy with the Gorilla Gripper, no bending, no twisting, just a controlled lift and carry. The fireline boards were half as heavy again as standard boards, a bit heavy to cart too far, and there were twenty of them. If the delivery had been kerbside as expected, I think I would have struggled to carry them the 60yds to the workshop on my own. It took an hour to shift them all into the workshop, just in time for lunch and a recharge.

Getting a second wind, I set about installing them. The local hire shop wanted £65 + vat For a board lifter, that’s more than the boards cost for the ceiling. I made a wall rest out of a piece of 4x2 to hold the wall end and a dead man for the free end.

Fortunately I’m over 6’ tall so could hold the board to the ceiling, locked in to the wall rest and manoeuvre the deadman in place. It wasn’t easy, but perfectly doable on my own. The ceiling is a board and a half wide and the same method worked for the half board.

I installed the insulation above the boards as I went to save having to crawl around the space to do it later.

Come end of play I’d finished half the ceiling and cut the hole for the access hatch which I’d framed yesterday.

 

[Inspector]

My muscles feel for you.

I don't see it in the pictures. Is there a plastic vapour barrier between the drywall and the insulation? Not something you gents do? Or is it handled with the paint?

Pete

 

[flying haggis]

" so I’ve set two electric cables into the insulation of which at least one will be in the correct position to instal a floor socket to power the workbench sockets. I may just put a second floor socket in for general use seeing the cables there now. "

if the cables are actually enclosed in the insulation they may need de-rating

 

[Sheptonphil]

My muscles feel for you.

I don't see it in the pictures. Is there a plastic vapour barrier between the drywall and the insulation? Not something you gents do? Or is it handled with the paint?

Pete

Hi Pete, yes there is a sheet vapour barrier between the two. I had to install it in two pieces as I just couldn’t handle the whole length at once. I’ve got pics of that as well I’ll add later.

 

[Sheptonphil]

" so I’ve set two electric cables into the insulation of which at least one will be in the correct position to instal a floor socket to power the workbench sockets. I may just put a second floor socket in for general use seeing the cables there now. "

if the cables are actually enclosed in the insulation they may need de-rating

They are in a chase in steel conduit in the insulation, so effectively enclosed. I’ll check with the electrician if he wants to put them on a 20A circuit. I’ve plenty of spare ways in the consumer unit if that’s what he wants to do. Thanks for pointing it out.

 

[Sheptonphil]

A hiccup in the system today.

To make insulation easier, I decided to work from the other end and put the vapour barrier over the first two rafters in the dirty room, I could then insulate the second bay from the eaves by standing on the step ladder through the third bay, then put the poly sheet covering the third bay, over to the wall, set the ladder up in the main room, lean over the dividing wall and insulate the third bay. Dirty room vapour barrier and insulation sorted. In the dirty room I used 200mm of rockwool acoustic for insulation as this will help keep the noises contained to the room and not go up through the roof and still help thermally.

I could have used foil backed plasterboard, but stock was three weeks away, so I ordered standard board and them metres of poly.

The boards were then fixed to the whole ceiling in the dirty room.

The bedroom I had decorated in March had a new carpet ordered for fitting the first of April, of course this was put on hold and I was able to escape decorating and commence the build. Today, the carpet fitter arrived, so after he left I was summoned to finish the room, assemble the bed and replace all the furniture. That put paid to any more being done in the workshop, so the second half Of the ceiling will get done Saturday. I’ve two packs of rockwool acoustic insulation left over, so may as well a fix them to the house wall in the roof void, may stop sound vibration which did get in to roof space transferring to the house wall.

 

[Sheptonphil]

A new day, and it’s raining, good excuse not to work in the garden. So I was excused duty and allowed to play.

The overnight rain was hard and it has been on constant for several hours, perfect to test the integrity of the roof. I took a torch into the loft space, and whilst I wasn’t anticipating any problems, was none the less relieved that everything was perfect inside. The guttering was working , so I’d managed to get that in the correct place first time. All this is very new to me, so It’s a pleasant surprise it all works as planned.

I spent the morning finishing the workshop ceiling. Laying the poly across the joists, undoing the last row of screws from the finished boards to overlap it underneath. I needed 4.5 sheets to finish the ceiling, and 4.5 sheets left, no room for error breaking a sheet. All went to plan, the wall rest and deadman doing their bit. I’ll insulate the last few rafters tomorrow, as I wanted to crack on with the walls.

I started garden side, working straight across the end and cutting the door opening after fixing boards to the wall. The long wall was next, six boards all lined up straight to the studs, no problems although humping these fireline boards around is much harder than standard board. Back wall, as the door lining was in, had to be measured, cut and installed across the room, but everything lined up fine. On to the house side, the heavy acoustic boards, first half was fine to the join of the two wall panels I’d made. The second half I’d mis-measured when making the wall up and was half a stud off for the next two boards, leaving the board jut reaching the stud. This wall was effectively still open, Covered just in membrane, there was no OSB so I had access to the stud work. I added a piece of 2x1 to the side of the two studs to carry the board edge. There were several other studs up through the board to fix to as well, but somehow I’d messed this edge calculation up. All resolved with the extra added timber though.

Just the dirty room walls to board out now, probably Monday as I’m restricted to a half day on Sundays and want to finish the insulation first.

All in all a decent day’s work, starting to look a tidy space.

 

[DBT85]

Looking great Phil.

Just painting it or are you having plaster splatter all over the floor very soon?

 

[Sheptonphil]

Looking great Phil.

Just painting it or are you having plaster splatter all over the floor very soon?

This will be taped and filled then painted as dry wall.

The theory being when we sell the house this would be usable as a workshop or home office. If wanted for a clean use like home office, it wouldn’t cost a fortune to convert by having it skimmed at that time to completely freshen it up and seal in any dings, dents, screw holes from fixtures and detritus from use. If I skim now, it will add nothing for me and make re-skimming harder in the future.

New comment after seeing it boarded, ‘this would make a superb music room (she is a band singer), you could have the garage’

Gotta be careful I don’t lose if before I even get to move in! :shock:

 

[Sheptonphil]

Another day, a bit more accomplished.

Last of the insulation went in to the roof void yesterday, that’s the loft finished for now, can’t decide yet whether to run the dust extraction ducting in the loft and drop down to machine or run it along the ceiling In the workshop and down. Thoughts?

Today started with the boarding in the dirty room, the last seven sheets, five of which had to be cut round doorways and part boards, so took a little while to do. I was left with four pieces over, about half board size. A post on the local Facebook giveaway group and they were gone in an hour, out of my way.

The afternoon. Was spent taping and first filling the joints. About half were done before I ran out of mud. Shall have to get a couple of buckets tomorrow to finish off first coat and have enough for second fill. Tape is looking dodgy, probably need another roll of that as well.

 

[Sheptonphil]

Oh! found my new 5m Stanley tape measure yesterday, it’s been awol for two weeks after being used for only two days.

It’s in the red circle!

I left it on the roof batten and tiled over it.

Think if I put a magnet on a string I might be able to feed it down through the join in the membrane and draw it up by the belt clip. If not, it’s just going to have to stay there.

 

[Inspector]

If you have the right kind of tape you could cut a slit in the membrane to get the tape measure and patch the hole with the tape.

I don't recall seeing insulation that looked like that. Here in Canada it is either in batts or it is meant to be blown in (little fluffy bits) to settle over and between the 2 x material. Is that meant to be chopped and blown or does all your roof insulation look like that? Chunky?

You are going to want easy access to your ducts for changes so in the shop. If you ever want to sell and take it with you the patching will be easier too.

Pete

 

[Sheptonphil]

If you have the right kind of tape you could cut a slit in the membrane to get the tape measure and patch the hole with the tape.

I don't recall seeing insulation that looked like that. Here in Canada it is either in batts or it is meant to be blown in (little fluffy bits) to settle over and between the 2 x material. Is that meant to be chopped and blown or does all your roof insulation look like that? Chunky?

You are going to want easy access to your ducts for changes so in the shop. If you ever want to sell and take it with you the patching will be easier too.

Pete

Yes Pete, the insulation comes compressed on a roll 30ft long 16inches wide. When you unroll and lay between the joists it uncompresses and expands to 8inch deep. It’s Knauf earth wool, glass mineral wool, but doesn’t make you itch all day like the glass fibre insulation used to.

The two packs of insulation left over in the picture is rockwool, made from, rock, and comes as batts. I used that in all the walls.

Thanks for thoughts on extraction.

 

[MikeG.]

..........can’t decide yet whether to run the dust extraction ducting in the loft and drop down to machine or run it along the ceiling In the workshop and down. Thoughts?.......

Didn't you have some sort of issue with sound attenuation? Am I remembering the right job? Obviously if the ducting is below the insulation it will be a lot quieter for your neighbours.

 

[Sheptonphil]

..........can’t decide yet whether to run the dust extraction ducting in the loft and drop down to machine or run it along the ceiling In the workshop and down. Thoughts?.......

Didn't you have some sort of issue with sound attenuation? Am I remembering the right job? Obviously if the ducting is below the insulation it will be a lot quieter for your neighbours.

That’ll be me Mike. I didn’t even consider the ducting making a noise, but if it does, then that alone will be the deciding factor.

 

[MikeG.]

It's not the ducting making the noise, technically, rather broadcasting the noise made by the extractor (and the machine it's attached to). If you've noise issues then keep everything inside the insulated envelope. That insulation you've just put in the loft is good for noise.