New Norris A5

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I have a norris A1 and find the adjuster to be not as good as I was led to believe after reading all those great things said about norris planes. A bit of tap tap on a plane without an adjuster actually gets results with less hassle. To advance the blade is not too bad but the side adjustment does not compare with a stanley. That said when set up a norris does a beautiful job.
Regards
John
 
That worked well!

I think this is the first time that electrolysis with a wet sponge has been mentioned on this forum. Do you have any tips on how to do it, how long it took, etc?
 
Hi Andy

in the end, because the infills came out very easily, I just submerged the whole metal body and lever cap in a sodium bicarbonate solution and used about 2 amps with a bit of mild steel at the anode. Gave it about 8 hours. Others had said that the brass should be OK and it was, although there must have been a lacquer on the lever cap which flaked off. The picture shows the better side, there is a bit more pitting on the other side and the sole has been lapped quite a bit.

So, sorry, can't comment on the sponge in the end but electrolysis seems a good technique for this sort of things and dead easy to do.

Cheers
Richard
 
Orraloon":3564vr54 said:
I have a norris A1 and find the adjuster to be not as good as I was led to believe after reading all those great things said about norris planes. A bit of tap tap on a plane without an adjuster actually gets results with less hassle. To advance the blade is not too bad but the side adjustment does not compare with a stanley. That said when set up a norris does a beautiful job.
Regards
John
I guess I can see why the Stanley approach took over. The Norris I have (although not from the high-point in terms of quality) seems to do a good job although no better than my favorite Record SS and Clifton #4 as far as I can tell so far (in terms of tear-out on sapele). I suspect the older Preston I bought a few weeks ago will turn out to be a better tool if I can get a decent iron for it. The iron in that case is set with a hammer - just takes a bit of practice to get it right.

Cheers
Richard
 
ED65":s3y7803g said:
FWIW that dulling caused by vinegar or citric acid is easily counteracted (takes moments to minutes) unless you've soaked for a very long time indeed. Not that I'd suggest either be used here I hasten to add.

Would be really interested to know how to counteract it please.
 
For the adjustment of depth, the tighter the lever cap, the deeper the cut. If you set it just shallow of cutting with the lever cap loose, you can use the tightness of the lever cap as micro adjuster.
 
D_W":10t92z4v said:
For the adjustment of depth, the tighter the lever cap, the deeper the cut. If you set it just shallow of cutting with the lever cap loose, you can use the tightness of the lever cap as micro adjuster.

Ahh, OK, its not just me then - that is more-or-less what I was doing - same with the Preston - use the lever cap screw as a micro-adjustment. I assumed that you should have the lever cap not too tight when adjusting the Norris though to preserve the adjuster thread. I'm getting the hang of it.


Thanks

Richard
 
That's correct. Some of my other planes without adjusters do it like your preston, too.
 
That's about as good an outcome as you could hope for, nicely done Richard! =D>
 
I'll second that, it looks fantastic, well done cleaning it up and saving the engine turning at the same time.
 
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