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Arnt

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Hi, first post from me.

I live in Tondheim, Norway where I have a basement shop in my house. I build steel string guitars, arch top mandolins and occasionally some really odd instruments. I recently reorganized my workshop and took some pictures. Well, of course it is not actually finished, we all know these things are ever evolving projects. I am putting some more cabinets under the bench, installing I door between the two rooms, I still have to build the down draft table, finish the separate room for the DC and the ductwork etc. Details! (It adds up, I know, I know...)

So here it is. The new shop consists of two separate rooms, one bench room and one machine room. The machine room is new; I used to have everything crammed into the room that is now the bench room. I wanted to separate the dust and debris of the big wood processing machines from the ‘clean’ work. The whole shop is 9 x 4,6 m (about 30’ x 15’).


Here’s the plan.
verkstedplanolf.jpg



The shop is in a semi basement, and about half of the shop is below grade. I have a bit of daylight, mostly from north, and I oriented the benches so I can position my work to take advantage of the light in many different positions. I also put some insulation and OSB on the walls, built new benches and shelves. Most of it is recycled from the old shop, cabinets are leftovers from various house renos and the bench tops are solid beech from IKEA (cost the same as a double 20 mm plywood bechtop would have, believe it or not). The drill press is the only big power tool in this room.


In the bench room I have a central work station that I can work on all from all 4 sides.
midtbordvest.jpg


midtbord.jpg




A pipe clamp guitar holding vise is on one end, and clamps are stored along another side.
tvinger.jpg



An old workbench is on one side. About the bench... they are very common in these parts, and this specimen could be 50 or 150 years old ; wooden bench screw are uncommon on more modern benches. I got it from a friend some year back, but I haven't had a chance to fix it up yet. Up here, these traditional benches are usually quite humble and utilitarian in their appearance, I have never seen any of 'trophy' Scandinavian style benches that exist in some other countries (especially the US). I'm going to flatten the top a bit, that's it. I have another (larger, but nicer) bench that I just didn't have room for any more.
hvelbenk.jpg



The hand tool cabinet above it I quickly made from an discarded pine book case and some plywood. I like to put the tools away after use, but still have them easily accessible where they will be used so a normal clamshell type cabinet seemed like a good idea. These are more general woodworking tools than guitar making tools.
verktyskap.jpg




Here’s the bench along the opposite wall for routing, sanding, go bar clamping and so on. Sharpening station and 'wet work' on a high pressure laminate bench top at the far end.
benkvest.jpg




Some more chisels above this bench
tappjern.jpg




Here's how the chisel rack looks up close. With these slotted board holders there is always the danger of the chisel falling out if it's not seated properly. My solution was to recess a hole for the the ferrules so the chisel seats more securely. It is more important on the chisel rack over in the cabinet door of course, but you really don't want any falling chisels on any part of your work area!
tappjern-1.jpg




Storage…
vindusbenk.jpg




...and more storage
zoot.jpg




Woks in progress, routers and trimmers on a shelf below.
fres.jpg




The only big power tool in the bench room is the drill press. It doesn't really produce a lot of dust, and it is handy to have it near the benches.
drill.jpg




I haven’t finished the ductwork for the dust collector yet, and the machine room is a bit dusty. Anyways, here are a couple of snapshots. First the large bandsaw. This one is 24” and 3 phase motor, works wonderfully. I have a 12” too, (not pictured).
bndsag.jpg




Some more heavy metal…
sirkelsag.jpg



Here is the type of work I do. This is the headstock of a guitar bouzouki i finished last year.
headstockfrontmimf.jpg




Thanks for looking!
 
Hi Arnt,

Welcome to the forum

Your pics have been caught by the spam trap. This will stop happening after a couple more posts.

Thats a nice big workshop you have there.
 
Well, for some reason the pictures are not showing... They looked fine in "preview", I wonder what happened?

<edit> All's well now, thanks Simon!
 
Welcome, Arnt.

I saw your first posts over on Woodnet; so it's good to have you on this side of the Atlantic, too.

That's a very nice shop, in which you do very beautiful work. That old bench looks like it could tell some stories!
 
Thanks for the warm welcome everybody!

When I was planning the shop renovation I looked into several woodworking forums, including this one, for ideas... There was much helpful info and inspiration, so I thought it would be a good idea to post some pictures of my shop; perhaps someone else will find some inspiration like I did. I am a member of several different forums aimed at instrument builders, but I find it interesting to see what the rest of the world of woodworking is up to as well.

Jenx, here is a mandolin I built, you recognize the model I'm sure! Big leaf maple and spruce, hand applied / sprayed sunburst, shellac finish.

2006-07-05_184835_050306_190_copy.jpg


2006-07-05_185215_32_copy.jpg


2006-07-05_185258_24_copy.jpg


2006-07-05_185040_050306_005_copy.jpg
 
Hi Arnt,

Lovely little workshop.....Stunning instruments......But please put a riving knife and guard on that saw.

Keep up the excellent work.


Paul
 
That wasn't a workshop tour it was a full-on gloat, I saw the Blue Spruce there's no hiding it!
 
Beautiful looking instrument, Arnt ! 8) 8)
I have long aspired to own a Vanden F5, but have never had enough spare money !
Yours looks fantastic. Do you perhaps have any references of well known players who use your mandolins ?

For interest - here is mike vanden's site link.. perhaps you already know him !
http://www.vanden.co.uk/f55.htm


( currently play an Ozark and an Epiphone ) 8) :D
 
Hi Arnt,

Now, as you are from Norway, one of the lands of timber buildings and cold weather, I thought you might know the proper way to insulate a wooden building. (A garden shed. pre-built, but in need of an overhaul.)

Here's my shed for the benefit of a WIP. It's a 'before' pic, as I hope you appreciate.

http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm23 ... 5124-1.jpg

I need to know about airspaces in insulation, to prevent mositure building up between the insulation and the waterpproofing/outside skin.
Is there any knowledge you could share please?
Much obliged
John :)
 
Jenx, I'm sorry but I have no famous clients! In fact I have only made 4 arch top mandolins and about 20 guitars, so I'm really just a beginner; my first instrument was finished in 2000. I have played for most of my 42 years though. Here's a link to a youtube clip of Andreas Aase, the fellow I built the guitar bouzouki for; he's probably the only one you might have heard of who plays my instruments. I'm building a guitar for him now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxV8FQnyz-w

Here's his web page: http://andreasaase.com/



Hi Benchwayze (John),
yes we have many wooden buildings in Norway, I am in fact an architect so I deal with these things on a daily basis. In this country, modern houses usually have between 200 - 300 mm insulation, stuffed between studs that are spaced 600 mm apart; for a shed like yours perhaps 100 mm would be sufficient. The moisture barrier goes on the inside, and it is good practice to have some distance between the inside wall material and the barrier as any punctures of the barrier will diminish its efficiency. This space can be used for electrical conduit and filled with a maximum of 1/3 of the walls insulation. The wall construction also needs to “breathe”, so the water- and wind-proofing material (such as Tyvek or housewrap) on the outside must allow water vapour to pass through. All seams in both the vapour barrier and the housewrap must be overlapped and tight. Wooden siding in this country is usually spaced between 25 – 50 mm from the studs/weatherproofing and nailed to an intermediate layer of planks; in your situation 25 mm would be fine. Air circulation and the water drainage needs to be planned in detail, but if you “think like water” as we say, you should be able to figure the details out.
 
Thanks for that Arnt,

Very good of you to share your expertise.

I think I shall completely recover the shed in any case now, so your notes will be studied !

Regards
John :)
 
Great, Arnt ... Andreas makes lovely use of your instrument.
very nice.

For Bozouki, - I have always been in awe of Donal Lunny, the Irish player from Planxty, and the Bothy Band ( and others ! )

Your mandolin may not have attracted a famous client yet... but it is sure to do so, in the future sometime ! It has a wonderful 'look' to it...

if you were interested in manufacturing , even in small quantites, after all, it is perhaps a small market of players ... maybe have a little look here :
http://mandolin.org.uk/index.php

:wink: :wink: 8) 8)
 

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