Need help fitting a simple curtain rail

[HawkEye]

I'm trying to drill an 8mm diameter hole in order to fit brackets that hold a curtain blind. I get easily through the plaster but once I come up against the blockwork nothing I buy has any affect on the concrete blockwork underneath.

I have a set of masonary drill bits that are designed for brickwork and they are useless. I just bought a set of Piranha drill bits designed to drill concrete- They are useless. I am drilling clockwise using a hammer drill.

My life is filled with petty annoyances like this and although I have qualifications in bench joinery what good am I if I cannot fit plastic fittings to a ******* wall? Any advice?

 

[DaveL]

You need an SDS drill, I bought a cheap one and am amazed at how good it is at putting holes in very hard concrete and brick work. 8)

 

[gidon]

I'm sure others will come along with better advice, but if you're drilling into the lintel - an SDS hammer drill will be more effective. If you don't have one perhaps start off with a smaller hole and move up to the required size? Or gripfill a wooden batten and attach the rails to that !
Cheers
Gidon

 

[SBJ]

I'm not sure what orientation you are drilling, but you haven't hit a steel lintel have you? Masonry bits will just bounce off it. Try an HSS metal bit and see what happens.

 

[laird]

I have to agree with SBJ, (well I don't "have to", but I do - you know what I mean :? ) I'd presume either a steel lintel or a reinforcing bar in a concrete one first, and try HSS, before rushing out and buying SDS.

 

[HawkEye]

Well that's great advice guys. I would rather not purchase an SDS drill if I can possibly avoid it and theres no gurantee it will be more effective. I didn't know what an SDS hammer drill was before I googled it. This drill is one of those Xtreme ones. Its 650watts.

I already have HSS bits lying around but its late and I cant drill because of the neighbours so that'll have to wait till tomorrow. I live in a ground floorflat and this particular block of flats was built during the 1960's. Is it likely to have 'steel lintel' around the window area? Never heard of steel lintel until just now, how thick is it likely to be? I googled it just now and it seems to be used around window openings, for what purpose anyone know?

 

[matt]

You'll not regret buying an SDS drill, even if it's not the solution to this particular problem (i.e. it's a steel lintel).

 

[FatFreddysCat]

Or gripfill a wooden batten and attach the rails to that !

Are you a builder or something? Sure fire way to have the so and sos fall off in a few months (seen it quite a few times)

To the OP

Doesn't your window opening have a curtain rail batten? In any case daco you actually know if you are hitting concrete or steel beneath the plaster? I ask this because in my own experience steel RSJ lintels aren't that common in purpose built domestic properties mainly because of the cost. They are often used in refurbs because they are readily cut to size on site and you don't need to be so particular about sizing them - you just make tham bigger and stronger than necessary and mortar them in place! Steel reinforced concrete lintels have been in common use on new builds until relatively recently although the thin all steel Catnic lintels are now much more common - they are, incidentally, onl;y 1 to 2mm thick but the steel used can be incredibly hard to drill so the bit needs to be coated with a lubricant to stop it burning out. It may be worth chiselling away a small area of plaster to ascertain what you are drilling into as it can always be patch plastered when you've done. If it is concrete then as others have mentioned an SDS drill will be the best way to drill it

 

[TheTiddles]

You've hit the lintel, get a small HSS bit (3mm) then work up through 5 to 8mm diameter though if you're into steel you don't need the rawl plug, just get a longer screw and let it tap into the lintel, much stronger

Aidan

 

[dicktimber]

When you drill through the plaster is there a gap before you hit solid structure?
If there is there are a couple of products that could help.
1 Toggle rawl plug
This opens up like a butterfly after inserting into the hole in the space at the back of the board.
2 The second is a plastic rawl plug with a large taper thread. You drill a pilot hole and then use a screw driver to screw the fastener into the pilot hole. You then inser your fastening screw into the hole in the middle of the rawlplug.
3. You could put a batton up and use a construction adhesive to hold the batton in place (grabs like nails or better) but ensuring you get pressure on the batten while it drys could be a problem.


I have to say that putting these things up is a pain.
Mikee