My new push sticks. If you’re using a table saw you need these!

[Jacob]

I suspect there is a Gary Larson cartoon somewhere in the ether of a character called Jacob saying the same about the invention of the wheel.....

I'd certainly advise against attempting to reinvent it!

 

[Doug71]

On the theme of sticks to keep hands away from blades, I've been using one of these '10 Million Dollar' sticks on my mitre saw for a while now.
View attachment 105513
Picked it up from Peter Sefton's store a while back when he started stocking them (and no, I'm not affiliated with the store, just pushing a good supplier). One of the best add-ons I ever bought for my mitre saw.

I have one of these and yes they are really good, well worth the money

 

[Robbo60]

It's not really a requirement on cross cutting, there its the fence and its placement in relation to the gullets of the teeth.
In rip it stops the kerf closing up as tensions are released on the timber, which can make it move,twist or close together. If the timber closes together on the back of the blade the up motion of it grips the board and flings it up and out back towards you.
Actually with longer boards its as much a problem as theres more chance the timber will move as tension is released from it.

In cross cutting its best to use a sub fence that is the correct width you want to cut, but leaves the actual fence well back. As the timber needs only to be sized to that sub fence its really only acting as a stop. Actually that sounds rather convoluted. Hopefully someone else will happen along to explain it better

Thanks Triton. I do sub fence thing by clamping a piece onto the fence but find the end grain sometimes "sticks" a bit when sliding forward. Think I need to make a sled?

 

[Jacob]

Was asked for details.
Here's a pic with cm squares.
I think the design is good - bigger birdsmouth than some, but more useful - you can vary where the hold-down / hold-in pressure goes.
I make copies from cheap 1/2" ply as they get chopped about eventually, instead of your fingers.

 

[SparkHawk]

I had a little incident involving a push stick a few days ago.

I was cutting a piece of hornbeam to size for a project I'm making using my rage-5s table saw, the first cut went great with no issues and I decided I would run it through again to take the last little bit off, I was standing over to the side a bit and the plastic push stick wasn't pushing the wood perfectly square so as I pushed it through, it went under the guard, got hit by the blade and kicked back full force while I was holding it. I turned the saw off instantly and had a lot of pain in my wrist and the ring finger on my left hand, I took a look and my finger was already pretty swollen so I had worried that it was broken but it's fine today besides being pretty bruised.

I should have been more careful as to how the push stick was going through as well as use wooden push sticks which I think will be less likely to catch and kick back compared to hard plastic ones. Also be aware of how you hold the stick, I was using kind of a weird grip in hindsight which is why most of the force went straight into my finger, if I was holding it in a fully closed fist I think I would have been better off.

Stay safe.

 

[Jacob]

I had a little incident involving a push stick a few days ago.

I was cutting a piece of hornbeam to size for a project I'm making using my rage-5s table saw, the first cut went great with no issues and I decided I would run it through again to take the last little bit off, I was standing over to the side a bit and the plastic push stick wasn't pushing the wood perfectly square so as I pushed it through, it went under the guard, got hit by the blade and kicked back full force while I was holding it. I turned the saw off instantly and had a lot of pain in my wrist and the ring finger on my left hand, I took a look and my finger was already pretty swollen so I had worried that it was broken but it's fine today besides being pretty bruised.

I should have been more careful as to how the push stick was going through as well as use wooden push sticks which I think will be less likely to catch and kick back compared to hard plastic ones. Also be aware of how you hold the stick, I was using kind of a weird grip in hindsight which is why most of the force went straight into my finger, if I was holding it in a fully closed fist I think I would have been better off.

Stay safe.

Materials obviously important - the Axminster ones are softish and I guess wouldn't shatter - i've had bits trimmed off the ends with no prob! Rigid or brittle plastic obviously a bad idea but you can't tell by just looking at it.
I make copies from cheap meranti faced ply or mdf which is softer than solid beech ply and will get chewed up easily rather than knocking back.
I always use two - as well as better holding overall it means you can shift position with one whilst holding it with the other

 

[Nic Rhodes]

I have always told people plastic push sticks are just templates and should not be used! It is a great first project for someone just trying woodworking for the first time to make a wood copy. Similarly grr ripper gravity heels, a plastic template to be bought once!

 

[Cabinetman]

I have always told people plastic push sticks are just templates and should not be used! It is a great first project for someone just trying woodworking for the first time to make a wood copy. Similarly grr ripper gravity heels, a plastic template to be bought once!

I’m sorry Nick I can’t agree with that last bit those gripper blocks should be put straight into the bin, the crown guard has to be removed before you can use push blocks like these, and they are in my opinion inherently dangerous in that you need to put your hands frighteningly close to the blade. Ian

 

[Jacob]

I have always told people plastic push sticks are just templates and should not be used! It is a great first project for someone just trying woodworking for the first time to make a wood copy. Similarly grr ripper gravity heels, a plastic template to be bought once!

Yes to pushsticks but no to "gravity heels" they are one of the most stupid "safety" devices I've ever seen. OK for the yanks but not for normal people!
PS and astronomically expensive! I thought it was £14.99 but that's just the little plastic add on - the whole kit costs £90 what a rip off. Buy Grr-Ripper - Gravity Heel Kit for Router Tables and Table Saws Only online at Rutlands.com

 

[Nic Rhodes]

I’m sorry Nick I can’t agree with that last bit those gripper blocks should be put straight into the bin, the crown guard has to be removed before you can use push blocks like these, and they are in my opinion inherently dangerous in that you need to put your hands frighteningly close to the blade. Ian

It is okay I don't own any gravity heels, I just use push sticks, but people do use them and keep buying more! I find things like this incompatible with my saw guide / riving knife which stays on my 'bench saw'.