My homemade router table

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Why not buy magnets something like this would work

My experience with these magnets is they are very brittle and it doesn't take much force on the surface to shatter them. In the case of the router mounting plate, the ring or coins are to protect the wood from the force exerted by the grub screws used to level the plate. Gravity holds the router plate and router in place, and depending on the design of the plate, additional countersunk screws or a side cam screw are used to secure the plate to the table.

In practice, the bottom of the plate does not touch the router table. The lip cut in the table top should be deeper than the thickness of the table. This allows room to raise the plate and level it to the table top.
 
After a fair bit of head scratching and a little bit of fettling to the table top, the router is attached and test fitted in.

Left to do is mark and cut the hole for the lifter handle, rout and insert something beneath the levelling grub screws, attach the plate fully to the top and then finally, hopefully, attach the top to the base.
 

Attachments

  • 0F0AA796-F5B3-4599-AC0F-EDE93A62695C.jpeg
    0F0AA796-F5B3-4599-AC0F-EDE93A62695C.jpeg
    126.5 KB
Well I'm calling v1 of this table done. It's in and have done a first test cut with new 'Cavetto' bit from Wealdon. I put some threaded inserts in to the table top so the insert is attached, and put some smaller metal washers beneath the grub screws so hopefully that will hold up.

I have not yet drilled out the hole for the lifter as I decided to try it by hand for now before potentially making a mess of the insert plate. If I decide I need it I will look at drilling it or possibly fabricate / 3d print an angle bracket / adaptor so the lifter comes out of the front.

I had ordered an NVR a while ago but actually the position of the power switch on the router makes it pretty easy to activate... so will see about installing that if it ever arrives. Have also got a T-track and miter gauge to go on at some point; but keen to just experiment with it for a while and see what I end needing.

Must say the noise the motor on the Triton makes is very pleasing. It's like a happy whirr... admittedly I've got it on the lowest speed at the moment.

I'm working through the Bill Hylton book now... I have so much to learn about this.

Thanks all very much for the input along the way! Hopefully this thread will prove useful to others in the future.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2069.JPG
    IMG_2069.JPG
    190.2 KB
To support the grub screws on my 40mm Formica worktop, I just taped 4 lengths of 1.5mm thick aluminium strips to the formica. They were offcuts found under the guillotine.
 
Hi, this thread is really useful as I’m embarking on building a table to mount my Triton MOF.

Quick question, I was planning on laminating two 18mm MRMDF pieces together for the top. I’m struggling to find a suitable ‘melamine’ or ‘phenolic laminate’ material to then fit onto these, providing me that low friction surface.
Any advice please on where I can source some? I’m hoping for a white top similar to the UJK one, but self built.
 
Hi, this thread is really useful as I’m embarking on building a table to mount my Triton MOF.

Quick question, I was planning on laminating two 18mm MRMDF pieces together for the top. I’m struggling to find a suitable ‘melamine’ or ‘phenolic laminate’ material to then fit onto these, providing me that low friction surface.
Any advice please on where I can source some? I’m hoping for a white top similar to the UJK one, but self built.
Any shop that sells kitchen worktop laminate will have that in stock
 

Latest posts

Back
Top