My homemade router table

[Trainee neophyte]

For anyone struggling with power, switches in the wrong place, etc, I have have a universal nvr switch like this:

https://www.charnwood.net/products/product/nvr-safety-switch-240v-w026
You plug the extension lead in one end, and the router (or any other electrical device) in the other, and you get nvr controlled power wherever you want it. My router table, which is just a plywood sheet with a hole, has full nvr safety, despite having gaffer tape on the power button to keep it on permanently! You could diy it with a standalone nvr switch connected to a socket for £10, or Charnwood want £25 for their offering - probably cheaper direct from China, but I just found the first example.

 

[Paul M]

Thanks, that video is ideal and having watched it now understand what is meant by surrounding the plate etc. as opposed to having a template.

I need to check my router bits; by my reckoning (and by holding up a forstner bit I have) the radius of the corner on the UKJ insert is 15mm so his tip to use a bit the same size to get the corner is very simple. Not sure if I have a big enough bit to rout all the way through; but I do have a jigsaw.

I have attached the UJK Manual/Drawing for the UJK custom table. This is from the Axminster website tech specs. A 12.7mm template trimmer (Wealdon Part T8027B - £14.35 or buy from Axminster £23 )will be sufficient, the inside of the aperture can be removed using a jigsaw (easier and more cost effective). The inside radius can be mitred corners to better support the plate. The trend RTI/A plate comes with instructions and magnets to allow for levelling etc. you could look at that guide, which will give useful info. Going forward you might want to consider buying Bill Hylton Book, Woodworking with the Router. This is a good reference guide or you could consider doing a one day training course. Hope this helps

 

[Paul M]

Hi Paul, could you reply with a link to the cutter you bought please?
thanks
Mike

Hi Mike
Template Trim (wealdentool.com) The Part number is T8027B, please note it is 12.7mm on 1/4 shank. Cost is £14.15

 

[weirdbeardmt]

I have attached the UJK Manual/Drawing for the UJK custom table. This is from the Axminster website tech specs. A 12.7mm template trimmer (Wealdon Part T8027B - £14.35 or buy from Axminster £23 )will be sufficient,

Brilliant, you have just answered the question I was about to ask next. The only flush trim bit with a bearing I have is a 1/2" / 12.7mm bit so that should do the job!

the inside of the aperture can be removed using a jigsaw (easier and more cost effective). The inside radius can be mitred corners to better support the plate. The trend RTI/A plate comes with instructions and magnets to allow for levelling etc. you could look at that guide, which will give useful info. Going forward you might want to consider buying Bill Hylton Book, Woodworking with the Router. This is a good reference guide or you could consider doing a one day training course. Hope this helps

Thanks. I must admit this exploration in to how to do this (before actually cutting anything) has led me on a path of wanting to do things better... that Chris Tribe video for instance, I drifted on to some of his other videos and, wow, I have a lot to learn. Bit limited where I am in terms of courses, but thanks for the book tip, will hunt it out.

 

[Paul M]

I have attached the UJK Manual/Drawing for the UJK custom table. This is from the Axminster website tech specs. A 12.7mm template trimmer (Wealdon Part T8027B - £14.35 or buy from Axminster £23 )will be sufficient, the inside of the aperture can be removed using a jigsaw (easier and more cost effective). The inside radius can be mitred corners to better support the plate. The trend RTI/A plate comes with instructions and magnets to allow for levelling etc. you could look at that guide, which will give useful info. Going forward you might want to consider buying Bill Hylton Book, Woodworking with the Router. This is a good reference guide or you could consider doing a one day training course. Hope this helps

Hi also attached Trend config to help understand better

 

[Astrobits]

I don't think the switch interlock is actually a safety feature, rather it protects the machine from damage due to being powered up whilst the spindle is locked. I don't know what would happen if you did that and I'm not going to try it to see, I suspect the motor would just hum loudly and maybe blow a fuse, but modifying the machine to remove the interlock does not allow the cutter to rotate whilst the spindle is in the bit changing position and so doesn't really affect safety.

Actually it is a safety feature. Safety for both the operator and the router. The spindle lock is progressive as the router is raised and it is possible to have the shaft apparently locked when it is only just engaged. I had a problem with my first TRA001 ( an older design than current models) where the spindle locking rod was slightly undersized and the spindle lock failed when trying to change bits. I still have that router going strong with a modified locking rod.
Nigel

 

[pcb1962]

Actually it is a safety feature. Safety for both the operator and the router. The spindle lock is progressive as the router is raised and it is possible to have the shaft apparently locked when it is only just engaged. I had a problem with my first TRA001 ( an older design than current models) where the spindle locking rod was slightly undersized and the spindle lock failed when trying to change bits. I still have that router going strong with a modified locking rod.
Nigel

It's clearly not a 'necessary' safety feature as none of my other 5 routers have any interlock to prevent you operating the power switch whilst changing bits.

 

[weirdbeardmt]

FYI, the UKJ base and mixture of other routing bits are currently on 15% off flash sale at Axminster.. now until 10pm. Bleeding typical.

https://www.axminstertools.com/ujk-...router-table-insert-c-w-universal-base-502748

 

[weirdbeardmt]

Went earlier to set up the cut and do a dry run, check to see if I understood what was going on and what was needed. Looking at it and wondering how it’s ever going to work. Realise the bit I have has the bearing at the bottom and obviously not designed for this purpose. (Fortunately I already ordered the Wealdoj bit so hopefully that will get me a step closer...)

 

[weirdbeardmt]

Found a few moments in between chores and children’s parties and usual stuff.

Have assembled the guide for the router. It’s stuck down with double sided tape.

Didn’t have thick enough mdf so had to give the router some legs and put the inner guide in. Will cut out the main hole with jigsaw after routing.

Did a test cut on some spare and the bit I got from Wealdon cut beautifully; sharp edge with no masking tape.

With a bit of luck will get to do some more tomorrow.

 

[billw]

I thought you only needed one supporting piece as some of the router rests on the outside?

 

[weirdbeardmt]

Yeah exactly, I’ve already noticed a slight mistake which is that jacking up the router means the bearing has nothing to roll against! So have removed one of the legs and then will cobble together something that actually works to raise the side of the template if that makes any sense. Hopefully will work!

 

[MikeK]

Since you will be cutting the center section out, you can use countersunk screws to hold the center support in place...unless you want to use the center section for something later.

Why did you attach the rails to the router? With the correct bearing cutter, the first layer of MDF is all you need for the routing template.

 

[weirdbeardmt]

Since you will be cutting the center section out, you can use countersunk screws to hold the center support in place...unless you want to use the center section for something later.

True...!

Why did you attach the rails to the router? With the correct bearing cutter, the first layer of MDF is all you need for the routing template.

Because the depth of the MDF is approximately the depth of the plate and also the depth of the router bit which I only have this one. So I need to double the height of the MDF so that the bearing has something to roll against. I have just about enough MDF left to put a strip on top... but as I've since realised two rails on the router is wrong.... I *think* I have it setup now.

 

[Paul M]

True...!



Because the depth of the MDF is approximately the depth of the plate and also the depth of the router bit which I only have this one. So I need to double the height of the MDF so that the bearing has something to roll against. I have just about enough MDF left to put a strip on top... but as I've since realised two rails on the router is wrong.... I *think* I have it setup now.

Start the plunge cut in the waste cut out middle area at minimum depth to allow the cutter bearing to run on template. Whilst cutting bring the router to the template (cutting) The bearing will then run along the template and you can do a first pass and then increase depth.
You only need one support for the router on the waste section. Remember to cut in the correct direction

 

[weirdbeardmt]

Made some progress. One little nick where it got away from me. Use a multitool to cut out the middle.

 

[MikeK]

One little nick where it got away from me.

Tis but a flesh wound.

This looks good. I have a suggestion before you get too far along, and I forgot to mention it earlier. There are six adjusting points to level the plate to the table, three along each of the long edges. These should be threaded holes for grub screws. The adjustment grub screw makes contact with the table and provides the support for the router plate.

I recommend finding suitable small metal disks and plunge cut a small depression centered on each of the adjustment holes to fit the disks. I used 1-cent Euro coins in a table I helped a friend build because they were less expensive than any other suitable substitute we could find. The disk (coin) will spread the point load of the grub screw to a larger area and won't eventually eat into the table material. A year on, and his table is still working fine with a Triton TRA001 hanging under it.

 

[Peter Sefton]

Tis but a flesh wound.

This looks good. I have a suggestion before you get too far along, and I forgot to mention it earlier. There are six adjusting points to level the plate to the table, three along each of the long edges. These should be threaded holes for grub screws. The adjustment grub screw makes contact with the table and provides the support for the router plate.

I recommend finding suitable small metal disks and plunge cut a small depression centered on each of the adjustment holes to fit the disks. I used 1-cent Euro coins in a table I helped a friend build because they were less expensive than any other suitable substitute we could find. The disk (coin) will spread the point load of the grub screw to a larger area and won't eventually eat into the table material. A year on, and his table is still working fine with a Triton TRA001 hanging under it.

I have this made for us for that very reason, the grub screws do end up eating into MDF or chipboard in my experience.

 

[weirdbeardmt]

Thanks Mike. I did enquire with a local fabricator about having something like that plate in the infinity tools kit made up.. but tbh your way sounds easier!

 

[Paul M]

Thanks Mike. I did enquire with a local fabricator about having something like that plate in the infinity tools kit made up.. but tbh your way sounds easier!

Why not buy magnets something like this would work