My first workbench build-W.I.P.-Updated

[Phil Pascoe]

I thought dogs were the reason. There is a good thread on the fitting of a Record vice if you are unsure how to fit it. (someone more computer literate than me will point you to it, I expect). If you make your cheeks slightly higher than the bench surface, you can plane them dead flat after fitting. (sorry if that was obvious).

 

[bugbear]

Will it be acceptable to make the wooden cheeks 18" wide and 5 1/2" high or would that be too much?

As long as you're aware (in use) of the increased scope for racking forces.

BugBear

 

[Zeddedhed]

JJ,
good job I asked then - I hadn't thought about dog holes for the front jaw. I guess I'll need to rethink the front jaw thickness for mine now!!

The thread that details the fitting of one of these vices is here:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/vices-fitting-a-record-bench-vice-t25365.html

If you want to take a look at my WIP and see how I'm getting on its here:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/workbench-build-wip-t76248.html

Looks like we're at about the same stage. I'll be very keen to see how yours turns out.

Good luck.

 

[ColeyS1]

Will it be acceptable to make the wooden cheeks 18" wide and 5 1/2" high or would that be too much?

As long as you're aware (in use) of the increased scope for racking forces.

BugBear

A way around the racking is to put a piece the same thickness on the other side.
I made this block of wood with the most common sizes I clamp- 20, 44,57,69 and 94. If I remember I've got it it works well :lol:

My only regret is making the jaws from oak. I should have made it from a softer wood than the workpiece I need to clamp.

 

[bugbear]

Will it be acceptable to make the wooden cheeks 18" wide and 5 1/2" high or would that be too much?

As long as you're aware (in use) of the increased scope for racking forces.

BugBear

A way around the racking is to put a piece the same thickness on the other side.
I made this block of wood with the most common sizes I clamp- 20, 44,57,69 and 94. If I remember I've got it it works well :lol:

My only regret is making the jaws from oak. I should have made it from a softer wood than the workpiece I need to clamp.

I like that - not seen it before. Many people use an offcut from whatever they're working on (although those tend to drop through, unlike your clever design).

FWW published a tip of just making a stack of thin leaves (e.g. 3 ply or hardboard), drilled and fitted to a nut-n-bolt at one end. You simply swing "enough" leaves together to match your workpiece, and fold the other leaves out of the way.

BugBear

 

[JJ1]

Thanks all for the useful inks and the excellent suggestions.
The vice fitting post will come in very useful, especially the tip about supporting the weight of the vice with a length of wood.

I shall keep an eye on any racking and try and avoid any undue stress on the vice.
Thanks for the two excellent tips on making assorted sized blocks. I shall be making one of those in the very near future.
Thanks also Phil P. for your suggestions.


Thanks Zeddedhed for the link to your bench build. I shall look forward to having a good read and following your progress.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

My eyes might be deceiving me, but in that pic. the cheeks look to be fixed with screws from the outside - if you use set screws from the inside, racking will of far less importance as the fixing is so much stronger - your only problem then is the vice may not pull quite square. An old vice will probably be UNC, Whitworth or something unmetric.

 

[ColeyS1]

How the jaws are fixed makes no difference to racking.

Unless you pop a piece of wood the same thickness on the opposite side to the piece you're clamping, the vice will always clamp wonky, be it a bit or if it's a used and abused vice probably alot. Keeping the workpiece as tight to the centre of the vice is the best way of preventing it- so in theory you could have jaws 3ft wide so longs you tried keeping the workpiece as close to the centre as possible, or alternatively pop in a piece of wood opposite the same size.

 

[JJ1]

It appears that the four holes on the two metal vice jaws are threaded B.S.W. 5/16. I don't have any screws of that size so I was thinking about drilling the holes a little larger with an 8mm drill bit. I could then use M8 nuts and bolts of which I have plenty. Are there any reasons why this wouldn't be a good idea? Obviously the holes will no longer be threaded. Does that matter?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

As to Coley's point - yes, I agree, what I was getting at was that you are not likely to detach the cheeks by clamping something offset. It won't make any difference to the racking per se.

 

[ColeyS1]

Fair point, although I'd sooner snap a screw or strip the thread from the wooden jaw than risk damage to the vice. For me it acts as an incentive to use the vice properly, if the jaw falls off im using it wrong :lol:

 

[porker]

It appears that the four holes on the two metal vice jaws are threaded B.S.W. 5/16. I don't have any screws of that size so I was thinking about drilling the holes a little larger with an 8mm drill bit. I could then use M8 nuts and bolts of which I have plenty. Are there any reasons why this wouldn't be a good idea? Obviously the holes will no longer be threaded. Does that matter?

I bought a bag of these countersunk screws for my Record vice ages ago. If you want a few send me your address via PM and I'll pop a couple in the post - gratis. They are a bit long so will need cutting down a bit.

 

[JJ1]

I bought a bag of these countersunk screws for my Record vice ages ago. If you want a few send me your address via PM and I'll pop a couple in the post - gratis.

Thank you, that's a very kind offer but I'll probably just drill the holes a little bigger and use some M8 nuts and bolts, thank you anyway

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Make sure you cut/round the ends off, or you'll skin your knuckles every time you use it. Or any decent steel merchant will sell you a handful of BSW set screws.

 

[JJ1]

Make sure you cut/round the ends off, or you'll skin your knuckles every time you use it.

Will do

 

[JJ1]

The workbench is coming along slowly but surely. Having decided on what height I wanted to make the front apron I was then able to make the mounting block for the vice. Three 18mm pieces of MRMDF glued together gave the correct height for the mounting block.

The next job was to cut out an aperture in the apron for the vice's rear jaw. Rather than offering the vice up to the underside of the bench, it was easier to place the bench upside down on my living room floor, place the vice in the correct position and mark the thickness and height for the aperture. I set to work with the router and was so engrossed in what I was doing that I never realized the routers' dust extraction port had become blocked. By the time I had finished I was completely covered from head to toe in shavings and sawdust :roll: . Never mind, the messy bit was done now, or so I thought. I offered up the vice to the apron to check the fit and suddenly realized that I had messed up. What I hadn't accounted for was the fact that the bench and apron was upside down when I measured up. Therefore, I had routed the aperture in the wrong end of the apron :roll: . I couldn't face getting covered with shavings for a second time so I called it a day.
The following day I cut another aperture, but in the proper place this time and glued some wood into the messed up first attempt. The mounting holes were also cut into the bench.

I had a bit of a shock when I saw the price of stainless steel M12 nuts, bolts and washers :shock: So I settled for a meter length of zinc plated M12 threaded rod and the far less expensive zinc plated nuts and washers.
The edging on all sides of the bench was temporarily screwed in place and with the bench top upside down I did a trial fitting of the vice. It fitted nicely and the rear jaw is a nice, snug fit between the front apron and the bench top and mounting block. Looks like I don't even need to bolt/screw the vice's rear metal jaw to the front apron.

The next job was to enlarge the vice's holes on the front metal jaw so that I could use M8 bolts to attach a wooden cheek. I dug out an M8 tap which I had lying around for years and which I didn't know how to use. A quick Google search on how to cut a thread seemed quite straightforward so I gave it a go. It couldn't have been simpler. The existing hole was a close enough size that I didn't even need to re-drill it and the existing threaded hole ensured the tap stayed perfectly upright and went in nice and straight 8)


The next task is to get going on the underframe

 

[JJ1]

The bench has been progressing nicely and I'm at the stage where I need to decide on the best finish for it.
Initially I thought about going for an outdoor varnish but it appears this would't be the best option in terms of ongoing maintenance, unless I'm prepared to sand it right back every time it needs re-doing.
So, I was thinking about using Osmo (clear) UV protection oil on top of a couple of coats of Barrettine Wood Preservative (as advised on Wood Finishes Direct website). Bearing in mind the workbench will be situated outside on a balcony, but covered with a couple of tarpaulins when not in use, or in wet weather. Does this sound like as good a finish as any?

 

[Benchwayze]

There's nothing better than seeing someone with youth and enthusiasm, getting stuck into some serious graft. I think that table is in good hands and will make a decent bench, in your present circumstances. yes I do think it would benefit with some 3 x 2 rails and stretchers to stabilise the legs, or as already said, the leg joints might not last very long. Much depends on what kind of joints were used, but planing, as I am sure you already discovered, exerts a lot of force on the job and even mortice and tenons will give way without plenty of bracing between the legs.

PS. The finish of my benchtop is a beautiful blend of 'bashed and battered', achieved only by the passage of time, and many projects across it. Never saw any need for any other finish, and my new bench won't have anything either. if you decide on a finish, if it repels glue and other types of spillage, that's all you need.

More power to your elbow JJ

Regards
John