morticer packed up - help - updated

[big soft moose]

Hi Folks

at work we have a decent sized multico morticer ( its like this one http://www.gandmtools.co.uk/cat_leaf.php?id=6330 except ours is single phase) and i was using it yesterday when it suddenly packed up

I had completed one mortice and turned it off at the NVR , but when we went to start the next mortice it wouldnt turn on. I think the fault is electrical because there is no action at all but we have replaced the fuse and that hasnt helped so i was wondering if anyone else has one and if there were any likely culprits to check

also if it does turned out to be beyond our ken does anyone know who would service/repair it ? - as its pretty old and i have no idea where we got it from (we are near oxford)

 

[OLD]

The nvr has two wires in live and neutral and the same out you need to see if mains is passing through it ( it has a winding and contact and some times a overload sensor so can fail ) also check the m/c turns freely.

 

[lurker]

This is possibily totally irrelavant but the NVR switch on my lathe got clagged up with sawdust.

A strip down & brush & blow out got it working again.

 

[studders]

This is possibily totally irrelavant but the NVR switch on my lathe got clagged up with sawdust.

A strip down & brush & blow out got it working again.

Diito, although being lazy I just blew it out with an airline, which did the trick.

 

[jhwbigley]

I had completed one mortice and turned it off at the NVR , but when we went to start the next mortice it wouldnt turn on. I think the fault is electrical because there is no action at all but we have replaced the fuse and that hasnt helped so i was wondering if anyone else has one and if there were any likely culprits to check

I take it that the NVR is not latching on (when you press it it clicks on)

first thing to check is the plug ( any lose connections, the fuse, the flex ( is there power getting to the nvr?, as Old sujested) going to the nvr. did you test the fuse or just change it? if everything seems well then its the nvr..

hope this helps

John-Henry

 

[Grinding One]

Some motors have an overload button,(To reset the starter) not sure about over there but here we do.Push it in once and try again.Also test to see if power is on to unit as previously mentioned.

 

[big soft moose]

cheers guys

i guess is probably the NVR - when the green button is pushed it isnt clicking down.

one of my guys used to be an electrical engineer so i'll get him to have a look.

 

[FatFreddysCat]

One thing every shop I've ever worked in seems to ignore is the need to open contactor boxes from time to time and blow out the dust. Dust always seems to get in and clog up the switch gear as well as causing arcing (and fires)

 

[big soft moose]

One thing every shop I've ever worked in seems to ignore is the need to open contactor boxes from time to time and blow out the dust. Dust always seems to get in and clog up the switch gear as well as causing arcing (and fires)

trouble is the nvr on this one is built into the side of the motor housing so you need to undo something like 16+ bolts to get at it - we can do it if we have to but its not conducive to doing it on a regular basis.

 

[FatFreddysCat]

We had a Multico like that. Which is why we now have a Dominion

 

[big soft moose]

We had a Multico like that. Which is why we now have a Dominion

yep , i hear what you are saying , but we dont have the money to replace it with a decent make - if it goes to the big workshop in the sky we are going to either wind up with the big axminster morticer for about 400 notes , or with another multico second hand.

btw its principal use is cutting sign post mortices in oak and its seen a lot of hard service so i'm not suprised its broken down.

 

[big soft moose]

okay , my guys have checked it out with the multimeter and the conclusion is that its the motor that has died...... pipper

does anyone have any experience of changing the motor over on one of these multico morticers - its single phase and i know axminster sell motors for a lot less than a new morticer would cost.

but my only concerns are that a) we dont have a manual so its hard to spec what power of motor we have , and b) how the motor is engaged with the drive - its located imediately above it so i would guess that its a fitting rather than a drive belt.

any wise words would be appreciated.

 

[9fingers]

Before you write off the motor,
1) it could be that the internal centrifugal switch has failed - dust is a favourite problem here too.
2) it might be the starting capacitor
3) you first described this problem as the NVR switch not being heard to clunk . Was this wrong info or could it still be part of the problem?

When motors have machine specific features such as direct drive as you suspect, then there are lots of little re-wind shops tucked away on industrial units who can re do the windings.

hth

Bob

 

[OPJ]

I know that some rewind shops will look at the motor without charging. And, if they think it isn't worth the cost of repair or 'rewinding', they'll be honest with you. That was my experience when a Chinese motor died on me a couple of years ago; the bloke (in Yate, north Bristol) said that the windings has burnt out and it would be cheaper to buy a new motor (£75) than to have the old one repaired (over £100).

It shouldn't be too hard to replace the motor on a mortiser, as it sits on top of the machine. :wink: Capacitors are dirt cheap as well so, you may want to give them a try... In my (limited) experience, the motor will still turn over (very slowly) when the capacitor's had it...

 

[FatFreddysCat]

From memory modern Multicos use a fairly good quality German motor so a rewire is a possibility. The problem about buying an Axminster motor is that mortisers have a flange-mounted motor not the more common foot mounted type and you may find that the motor shaft is specifically machined for the machine. If you can get the motor out you'd be able to see what you've got before deciding on further actions. Multico do still exist, but I believe they've gone to France from Harlow

 

[Night Train]

If you want to know if the motor is burnt then just give it a sniff. You should be able to smell if it has over heated and melted the insulation and windings.

You can also just open up the back end of the motor and remove the end cap to expose the connections, switch and windings to give it a clean and check for damage.

In the dim and distant past (in my previous life) we used to be able to repair 'odd' motors by using an equivilent motor and just replacing the centre section with the windings and keeping the armature and endcaps and flange mounting of the original.
The removed windings could then be sent off for repair if necessary or be repaired in house.

 

[paulm]

I used this outfit recently for a new motor for my bandsaw

http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/electric- ... ec0Q2em322

Tony, the guy who owns it, is extremely helpful and patient, and there's no problem getting flange mounted motors and the motor shafts tend to be standard diameters and lengths depending on the power of the motor, but adaptors may be available if needed.

Cheers, Paul

 

[JonnyD]

My Modernish Multico (10-15 years old) has a Brook Crompton Motor of about 1.5Hp. Some of the older ones have Hoover Motors on them.

Jon

 

[9fingers]

I think I have a 1.5hp flange mount motor but it is 3 phase if that is any good?

If the op is interested I can dig it out and measure its vital statistics.

Let me know

Bob

 

[jhwbigley]

I used this outfit recently for a new motor for my bandsaw

http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/electric- ... ec0Q2em322

Tony, the guy who owns it, is extremely helpful and patient, and there's no problem getting flange mounted motors and the motor shafts tend to be standard diameters and lengths depending on the power of the motor, but adaptors may be available if needed.

Cheers, Paul

I've used them as well for a motor for my extractor, as paul says, very helpful.

John-Henry