Makita Track Saw Blades - my brain hurts

[Molynoox]

I'll just go online and get a new blade for my saw.... or so I thought
Hmmm, I thought.... what thickness blade and kerf is on the saw already? I don't want to damage the splinter guard with a different blade spec... etc

I thought if i looked at makita branded plunge saw blades they would all be compatible with my saw, as long as the bore and diameter were correct, but it seems the kerf and plate thickness varies across all these makita 'specialised' blades.

Am i over thinking it?
Should i just buy any 165mm, 20mm bore makita specialised blade and stop thinking about it?
That's what i want to do - i hate this stuff

Martin

 

[Doug71]

I'm no expert on Makita blades but so you don't damage your splinter strip you need a blade where the difference in thickness between the kerf and the plate is the same as the one you currently use if that makes any sense? It's sometimes hard to get your head around but because the left side of the blades position is fixed relative to the rail it's how much the teeth overhang the plate which makes the difference.

The thicker blades were normally for corded saws and thinner blades came out for cordless saws but things have got a bit mixed up these days! If the saw has a riving knife this makes a difference to blade selection but don't think the Makita has one.

 

[Flynnwood]

IMO the splinter guard is a little bit of bollo.
Decent masking tape on both sides, set blade just low enough to do the job, clean up.
Peter Millard did an experiment on this stuff on YT

 

[BucksDad]

You could always just move the splinter guard over a bit and recut it with your new blade

 

[Doug71]

IMO the splinter guard is a little bit of bollo.
Decent masking tape on both sides, set blade just low enough to do the job, clean up.
Peter Millard did an experiment on this stuff on YT

I agree to some extent because with my saw when using a decent blade there is often no splintering on the none splinter guard side of the blade but it is handy to know your blade is going to cut exactly to the splinter guard so you can use it as a reference when lining up cuts.

 

[Molynoox]

IMO the splinter guard is a little bit of bollo.
Decent masking tape on both sides, set blade just low enough to do the job, clean up.
Peter Millard did an experiment on this stuff on YT

For me the main function of the splinter guard is that it defines the edge of your cut. It's 100% critical that the edge of the rail is exactly where the blade cuts, otherwise you have a useless piece of equipment.

 

[Flynnwood]

For me the main function of the splinter guard is that it defines the edge of your cut. It's 100% critical that the edge of the rail is exactly where the blade cuts, otherwise you have a useless piece of equipment.

And what happens if you don't have a splinter guard at all, but just align the rail correctly with masking tape on both sides.
Try it?

 

[Molynoox]

And what happens if you don't have a splinter guard at all, but just align the rail correctly with masking tape on both sides.
Try it?

Where are you putting the making tape?

 

[baldkev]

Doug was spot on. Your original blade will depend on your saws power source. Corded saws have a thicker plate cordless are thinner because it's easier to spin up and stop and of course removes less kerf ( wood ) during the cut

 

[Molynoox]

I'm no expert on Makita blades but so you don't damage your splinter strip you need a blade where the difference in thickness between the kerf and the plate is the same as the one you currently use if that makes any sense? It's sometimes hard to get your head around but because the left side of the blades position is fixed relative to the rail it's how much the teeth overhang the plate which makes the difference.

The thicker blades were normally for corded saws and thinner blades came out for cordless saws but things have got a bit mixed up these days! If the saw has a riving knife this makes a difference to blade selection but don't think the Makita has one.

Now I think about it the offset as the critical dimensions now makes sense, thanks.
I wish it was easier to just buy a blade that was compatible rather than have to do maths on every blade spec to figure it out....

 

[Flynnwood]

Am i over thinking it?

Yes.

 

[Woody Alan]

You are not neccessarily over thinking it. Festools latest TS55 uses a narrower kerf blade so it is something to be aware of. Up to 2010 thereabouts they were 2.5mm then went 2.2mm and new models 1.8 I think,(mine is old and not getting sucked into the hype to upgrade) hence the claim for quicker cut. I use a narrower rip blade on my ts55 as long as you are aware of it it's not an issue, cannot speak for Makita though. Doesn't your original blade have the kerf written on it?
To add I think the battery version must use 1.8mm the electricity version can use either riving knife allowing.

 

[Molynoox]

You are not neccessarily over thinking it. Festools latest TS55 uses a narrower kerf blade so it is something to be aware of. Up to 2010 thereabouts they were 2.5mm then went 2.2mm and new models 1.8 I think,(mine is old and not getting sucked into the hype to upgrade) hence the claim for quicker cut. I use a narrower rip blade on my ts55 as long as you are aware of it it's not an issue, cannot speak for Makita though. Doesn't your original blade have the kerf written on it?

Hi yeah I know the kerf and plate thickness, it's written on the blade like you say... I just didn't know if I needed to care about that or if I could just search for Makita plunge saw blade and buy one.
I now know that it matters and I need to work out the offset and ensure the new blade has same offset (kerf minus plate)
Very dull unfortunately.
Might go to ITS then I can just read off the dims on each blade without having to search for it like you do when shopping on line.

 

[HOJ]

I get my blades sharpened, and there is possibly a reduction in the tooth profile, if I need precision I move the splinter strip and cut a new edge, It is sacrificial, so I just replace it when it ain't got any more to give.

I do have some rails set aside for general use, as I have a range of Makita and Festool saws so they just cut a straight line (I roughly know the offset to allow)

You need to think about tooth count as well, depending on what your cutting obviously, I have a range from 16 to 72 , and yes you are overthinking it

 

[Spectric]

Hi

I use a 110 V Makita corded and this might help with blades:

To understand the offset and effect on your rubber strip look at the diagram below, the offset is determined by the blade thickness and the kerf so if you keep the same offset then your rubber is not recut.

 

[Molynoox]

Hi

I use a 110 V Makita corded and this might help with blades:

View attachment 151714


To understand the offset and effect on your rubber strip look at the diagram below, the offset is determined by the blade thickness and the kerf so if you keep the same offset then your rubber is not recut.


View attachment 151715

That table is amazing! Love it, thanks. That pretty much solves the problem.

I already had my head around the whole offset thing as somebody else mentioned it earlier and I did some noodling.

Martin

 

[Trebor]

The Trend tools catalogue has a very useful listing of circular saw blades that gives diameters, bore and kerf thickness. I have a Makita corded tracksaw and wasn't too happy with the original blade so 'upgraded' to a Trend one and the cut is much cleaner. Many Trend products are available on EB*Y at good prices too.

Pages 117-120 on the Woodworking catalogue here

Rob

 

[Molynoox]

Thanks Rob, the catalogue is useful