Making large wooden garage door

[Ollie78]

Thanks Ollie

Your door looks brilliant, a cracking job. I’ll def incorporate those bird mouth joints into my braces too

So did you use through tenons on all the rails?

Cheers
Pete

Yes, full tenons on the rails and stiles. On the diagonal braces I think I did one large domino on each end, just to keep it flat during assembly.

 

[AJBaker]

I was going to say the same as @johnnyb about the braces.

Here is a door I did as example.
View attachment 196378View attachment 196379

You just make a little mdf jig to router the pocket out.

Does anyone know why the pictures don`t show in the body of the message I just inserted them as normal ??

Nice! What does the other side look like?

 

[Fitzroy]

I initially posted that "I think you need full through edged M&Ts on the four corners, ideally on all the joints but dominos on the other two would be a compromise. Big external doors are likely to 'bang' at least a few times during their life, when the wind grabs them they just go, and the forces during these events are huge with such a heavy door"

I then got thinking about the ledged and brace oak gate/side door I built a few years back. It has no frame and whilst it is much smaller (1.5m x 0.8m) it has slammed hundreds of times over the last few years to no visible ill effect. I think a lot of the strength comes from having every board attached to the ledge and braces. With floating boards I think you need full M&Ts at the corners but with a build as per AJBakers diagram dominos would likely suffice.

 

[HOJ]

I would be interested in his opinion?

The sizes @Doug71 references are close to where I would be, for a framed door, plus, I would be making this sort of thing for a paying client, so longevity and reliability in service would be my remit, and as such mortice and tenon construction would be my only option.

@Fitzroy's door is an ideal solution, you don't necessarily need a frame, as long as you build it well, as he certainly has.

Picture is easier to show (old one) how, in some cases, I fix my boards to the rails:




Screws are all in a groove cut in the rails then a beaded strip planted in to finish it off.

 

[Wilson joinery]

Yes, full tenons on the rails and stiles. On the diagonal braces I think I did one large domino on each end, just to keep it flat during assembly.

Thanks Ollie

 

[Wilson joinery]

I initially posted that "I think you need full through edged M&Ts on the four corners, ideally on all the joints but dominos on the other two would be a compromise. Big external doors are likely to 'bang' at least a few times during their life, when the wind grabs them they just go, and the forces during these events are huge with such a heavy door"

I then got thinking about the ledged and brace oak gate/side door I built a few years back. It has no frame and whilst it is much smaller (1.5m x 0.8m) it has slammed hundreds of times over the last few years to no visible ill effect. I think a lot of the strength comes from having every board attached to the ledge and braces. With floating boards I think you need full M&Ts at the corners but with a build as per AJBakers diagram dominos would likely suffice.

Hi Fitz

Just clicked the link to your ledge and brace door build, looks truly fantastic, I could only dream of making something that looks that good!

In that post I wasn’t quite sure what you meant by:

“The joint with the bottom ledge is open, in my mind to allow it to dry. The top joint I made as a socket, the braces are 22mm compared to 40mm ledges. The lower ledge was screwed to the upper brace as a template and then the socket routed out.” Any chance you could simplify for me .

Do you think all the dowels are necessary or was that mainly an alignment thing?

Cheers
Pete

 

[Wilson joinery]

The sizes @Doug71 references are close to where I would be, for a framed door, plus, I would be making this sort of thing for a paying client, so longevity and reliability in service would be my remit, and as such mortice and tenon construction would be my only option.

@Fitzroy's door is an ideal solution, you don't necessarily need a frame, as long as you build it well, as he certainly has.

Picture is easier to show (old one) how, in some cases, I fix my boards to the rails:

View attachment 196420
View attachment 196421

Screws are all in a groove cut in the rails then a beaded strip planted in to finish it off.

Thanks HOJ

That’s a really neat idea. As Fitz mentioned in his post there’s nothing worse than a plug snapping when chiselling down so this would avoid that and I imagine it’s probably quicker too. I’ll have to have a good rethink following all of this good advice and I’ll post a new design for any final comments!

Cheers
Pete