Laminating 25mm stock

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Yes have had benches with and without the well. First impression says its great to have a place for the tools but unless you are more disciplined than me it becomes the resting place for half the workshop. I find its easier to work without a well.
Regards
John
 
Related, though unrelated.

In this vid by Peter Sellers(all hail) i notice that he's used what looks like ply to infill the void in those alloy sash cramps. Obviously this is to strengthen and add rigidity.
I've a number of these clamps, i got them years ago and while i havent really had any issues with them, i think thats a very good idea.
 
It's not a tradition it's just a useful feature - it traps not only dust and rubbish but also tools and other bits and bobs being used, which could get in the way of the work going on above them.
It's also easier to keep flat if you happen to be a flatness fetishist.
I think you will find it's a feature of a traditional joiners bench though:unsure:
 
I have nowhere to put tools when there's no well, how do you cope?
Presuming you cannot have the bench anywhere else,
Very nice to having tools right behind you if you can fit an island bench, more access and light on the work.
I notice this sometimes when moving my bench around, and ultimately end up back again to where it was after a bit of tetris, as there is shadows and whatnot elsewhere around the floor.
 
Presuming you cannot have the bench anywhere else,
Very nice to having tools right behind you if you can fit an island bench, more access and light on the work.
I notice this sometimes when moving my bench around, and ultimately end up back again to where it was after a bit of tetris, as there is shadows and whatnot elsewhere around the floor.
island bench? my entire space is way too small for that, would be nice to be able to do that though.
 
Related, though unrelated.

In this vid by Peter Sellers(all hail) i notice that he's used what looks like ply to infill the void in those alloy sash cramps. Obviously this is to strengthen and add rigidity.
I've a number of these clamps, i got them years ago and while i havent really had any issues with them, i think thats a very good idea.

he uses pine I think but ply would work too, I put pine in mine, mainly because it's lightweight, personally I hated the clamps and when they failed decided to never buy them again, I replaced them with bessey uniklamps

p.s breaking news! the rutlands ones might be better made but I don't want to risk spending the money if they're no better.
 
Related, though unrelated.

In this vid by Peter Sellers(all hail) i notice that he's used what looks like ply to infill the void in those alloy sash cramps. Obviously this is to strengthen and add rigidity.
I've a number of these clamps, i got them years ago and while i havent really had any issues with them, i think thats a very good idea.

Aye - I bought some silverline clamps the other day and once I get the bench finished I'll be following his 'Retrofitting a clamp' video - Link Here - to do similar to mine.

Out of interest, can I plane over the squeeze-out from gluing up, or should I try and gently chisel the worst of it off first?
 
Mr Charlesworth told me its one of the best uses of the no.80 scraper plane.
Failing that and things are proving tough with a sawplate/card/cabinet scraper,
then if you've got a "beater" plane, you can use the end of the iron.
But beware if wishing to utilize the business end aswell as it might be particularly
keen, you will have to be very careful assembling your cap iron anymore should you have sharpened up the sides of the iron, as it will cut into the underside when getting paired up.
 
Out of interest, can I plane over the squeeze-out from gluing up, or should I try and gently chisel the worst of it off first?
Seems to be a few different opinions on squeeze out(unsurprisingly) some wipe it off while still wet*, some wait till its 'skinned over' so not hard and then use a chisel or scraper to take it off and some allow it to fully cure then plane it off.
Dried glue is pretty hard stuff and can in my opinion through observation cause chipping on surface planer blades.
* If you understand surface tension of water, most wood glues being water based, if you using a damp cloth wipe away the excess, as it dries it can pull back from the edge leaving the edge of jointed components devoid of glue, which is usually unsightly and obviously not actually glued up.

Personally i like to leave it till its skinned over and still slightly soft before using an older chisel or scraper to remove it. But each to their own.
 
Seems to be a few different opinions on squeeze out(unsurprisingly) some wipe it off while still wet*, some wait till its 'skinned over' so not hard and then use a chisel or scraper to take it off and some allow it to fully cure then plane it off.
Dried glue is pretty hard stuff and can in my opinion through observation cause chipping on surface planer blades.
* If you understand surface tension of water, most wood glues being water based, if you using a damp cloth wipe away the excess, as it dries it can pull back from the edge leaving the edge of jointed components devoid of glue, which is usually unsightly and obviously not actually glued up.

Personally i like to leave it till its skinned over and still slightly soft before using an older chisel or scraper to remove it. But each to their own.
For my bench top I just planed it off, but then read it could damage the plane iron.. and the laminated aprons etc still need doing but have dried already. Thanks for your response btw
 
I have nowhere to put tools when there's no well, how do you cope?
I have a tool rack on the wall behind the bench, a saw till close by and a wooden tool carry box(tote) for the most used tools for that job.
P1010001.JPGfrench cleats 005.JPG
Regards
John
 

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