Kitchen fitting
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Trigs
Established Member
Doug71":3dzuond0 said:
how have i not seen these before ? great shout.
I usually run a baton along the back top edge of base units to screw straight through into any timber behind plasterboard.
lurker":1vjtcx3a said:
Surely you would only ever really need to pull the cabinets out when you redo the kitchen again? You can always just unscrew the fronts, push the two lugs in and push the box through the back of the cabinet if you needed to anyway, probably takes about an extra 3 minutes
John Brown
Freeloading Social media influenza
Thanks. I guess you need a tap open (or a leak) to have a pressure difference.Old.bodger":1nw7is9c said:
siggy_7
Full time tool collector, part time woodworker
I fitted pattress boxes in my kitchen units for isolators etc, much neater and less disruptive to the cabinet structure to drill a hole for the wires (which you can then hide with the box) than hacking out larger chunks. I really don't see why you would ever need to move the cabinets again except for changing the kitchen; when that time comes simply undo the wires from the switches and the cable comes back through the hole. Takes but a moment.
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Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
I originally fitted my isolators in plasterboard boxes cut into the unit backs. You will need to fix shims to the unit back, as they are usually max 9mm, and the boxes will only grip minimum 12mm material (i might mean 6 & 9mm, but the concept is the same!)
They worked OK, but when i pulled the kitchen or temporarily for a extension, then reinstalled it, I replaced most of the PB boxes with metal back boxes, fixed to the wall. IIRC, a 47mm back box allowed the faceplate to pull up perfectly flush against the carcass, but with much less struggling than the PB box.
They worked OK, but when i pulled the kitchen or temporarily for a extension, then reinstalled it, I replaced most of the PB boxes with metal back boxes, fixed to the wall. IIRC, a 47mm back box allowed the faceplate to pull up perfectly flush against the carcass, but with much less struggling than the PB box.
lurker
Le dullard de la commune
I have taken onboard what many of you are saying and have modified a few this morning with flying leads so as to fit the box in the cupboard. The whole (empty) house has been rewired mainly by me, with sparky doing the new bathroom and signing off the lot.
Until the units have arrived, I am not sure how I will proceed.
Until the units have arrived, I am not sure how I will proceed.
lurker
Le dullard de la commune
So elementary I feel a fool for having to ask.
What is the standard height from the floor for a kitchen worktop surface.
I am guessing 36"
What is the standard height from the floor for a kitchen worktop surface.
I am guessing 36"
Have you got the Howdens instruction book? I fitted my first Howdens kitchen without it and it was like pulling teeth at times. Get it, it'll save a lot of agro.
IIRC, standard base unit height is 720,add 150 of adjustable leg/plinth, plus 40mm of worktop = 910mm, so near as bugger is to swear, 36 inches.
lurker
Le dullard de la commune
Thanks.
Wasn't aware there was an instruction book.
A leaflet said set up the adjustable legs to 170 which is pretty much what has sown the seeds of doubt.
Wasn't aware there was an instruction book.
A leaflet said set up the adjustable legs to 170 which is pretty much what has sown the seeds of doubt.
Doug71
Established Member
36" is the norm but you can have any height you want (just make sure appliances fit under!), the height often goes up or down in places as the floor runs out of level anyway.
If you look on Howdens website the fashion for worktops is for them to be thin, 22 mm, 20 mm and even 12.5mm so I guess that is why they say set the legs to 170 mm.
If you look on Howdens website the fashion for worktops is for them to be thin, 22 mm, 20 mm and even 12.5mm so I guess that is why they say set the legs to 170 mm.
lurker
Le dullard de la commune
thanks Doug, my top is 40mm.
the total height at home is a tad over 36” as both her majesty and I are shortarses that’s what I will work to.
Setch, thanks for the heads up regards the manual, I have just been to howdens and collected one.
For anyone fitting a kitchen, not necessarily howdens , these are free for the asking.
the total height at home is a tad over 36” as both her majesty and I are shortarses that’s what I will work to.
Setch, thanks for the heads up regards the manual, I have just been to howdens and collected one.
For anyone fitting a kitchen, not necessarily howdens , these are free for the asking.
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Glad they had one - i asked repeatedly for a copy when doing my first Howdens install ( but thankfully not my first kitchen) and they branch could only issue one for their Profile/Handleless range, which has different installation details etc.
Doing the second kitchen, with a full copy of the correct manual involved a lot less headscratching!
I don't really understand why they don't make the manually available online, butt they're a trifle odd like that.
Doing the second kitchen, with a full copy of the correct manual involved a lot less headscratching!
I don't really understand why they don't make the manually available online, butt they're a trifle odd like that.
lurker
Le dullard de la commune
It is online but lots of sections.
Personally, I don’t like this online malarkey, much prefer print.
I doubt that I have ever watched more than a dozen utubes either.
Personally, I don’t like this online malarkey, much prefer print.
I doubt that I have ever watched more than a dozen utubes either.
Richard_C
Established Member
I'm not a pro, but I did install my kitchen about 8 years ago, IKEA as it happens, decent stuff but at times challenging. So here are some of my thoughts for what they are worth.
Height, don't forget the floor. In my case it was concrete floor with horrid old vinyl on it, to be ripped out and replaced with quality laminate on top of proper underlay. That wasn't going all the way to the walls, but it did tuck under the plinths. So that meant I had to be sure the leg lengths were (in my case) 12mm higher than they would have been had it been built straight on to an existing floor. Having the floor go only just under the plinths but not under the legs meant I could change the floor again in a few years without taking the kitchen apart.
Installation order. Its tempting to rip all the old stuff out and then start putting the new in. I knew this would take me a couple of weeks or more so I only took old bits out as I got to them starting at an easy section. Mine was flat packed, so I sub assembled a section-worth in the garage, took some old stuff out, fitted the new then broke up the old (keeping a few for use in the garage/workshop). Then next section ... That way I was only without hob, cooker, sink and their units for a day each, plus by the time I got to them I had got much better and quicker at getting stuff fitted. I left the hob in a biggish section of the old worktop just roughly cut out so I could lay it across the new units until I had the new worktops ready.
But the contents. They were emptied out on day 1, don't want dust and bits in with the crockery and pans. It was ASTONISHING how much space all that took up piled up in the dining room. Don't underestimate the time it takes to empty, sort, decide, dispose ....
Others have warned that nothing is properly square or level, same with me, house built in 1986/7, much fiddling and it all came right. I obsessively leveled the hob - I want my fried egg to sit in the middle of the pan if that's where I put it. So too the built in oven installation. Sponges should be a disc not a wedge when they come out. Those are the things that matter most functionally, but pride means it all should be level.
I made 2 jigs which helped save a lot of time. I checked that the ceiling was level so used an offcut of MDF to make a marking device for the top cupboard fixing holes - V top and bottom, mark where the cupboards will meet, push mdf up to ceiling, put V against the lines and mark the holes for both cupboards at once, move on to next. I was scared of drilling the holes for the door handles in the wrong place so printed out loads of identical templates on A4 paper for the 2 sizes I was using. Stuck them to the installed doors with masking tape and then went round checking - am I sure its where I want it, are the hinges the right side, will it open without clattering into something.... yes yes yes, so get drilling.
Turned out to be a long and at times tiring job but probably the most satisfying I have done.
Height, don't forget the floor. In my case it was concrete floor with horrid old vinyl on it, to be ripped out and replaced with quality laminate on top of proper underlay. That wasn't going all the way to the walls, but it did tuck under the plinths. So that meant I had to be sure the leg lengths were (in my case) 12mm higher than they would have been had it been built straight on to an existing floor. Having the floor go only just under the plinths but not under the legs meant I could change the floor again in a few years without taking the kitchen apart.
Installation order. Its tempting to rip all the old stuff out and then start putting the new in. I knew this would take me a couple of weeks or more so I only took old bits out as I got to them starting at an easy section. Mine was flat packed, so I sub assembled a section-worth in the garage, took some old stuff out, fitted the new then broke up the old (keeping a few for use in the garage/workshop). Then next section ... That way I was only without hob, cooker, sink and their units for a day each, plus by the time I got to them I had got much better and quicker at getting stuff fitted. I left the hob in a biggish section of the old worktop just roughly cut out so I could lay it across the new units until I had the new worktops ready.
But the contents. They were emptied out on day 1, don't want dust and bits in with the crockery and pans. It was ASTONISHING how much space all that took up piled up in the dining room. Don't underestimate the time it takes to empty, sort, decide, dispose ....
Others have warned that nothing is properly square or level, same with me, house built in 1986/7, much fiddling and it all came right. I obsessively leveled the hob - I want my fried egg to sit in the middle of the pan if that's where I put it. So too the built in oven installation. Sponges should be a disc not a wedge when they come out. Those are the things that matter most functionally, but pride means it all should be level.
I made 2 jigs which helped save a lot of time. I checked that the ceiling was level so used an offcut of MDF to make a marking device for the top cupboard fixing holes - V top and bottom, mark where the cupboards will meet, push mdf up to ceiling, put V against the lines and mark the holes for both cupboards at once, move on to next. I was scared of drilling the holes for the door handles in the wrong place so printed out loads of identical templates on A4 paper for the 2 sizes I was using. Stuck them to the installed doors with masking tape and then went round checking - am I sure its where I want it, are the hinges the right side, will it open without clattering into something.... yes yes yes, so get drilling.
Turned out to be a long and at times tiring job but probably the most satisfying I have done.
lurker
Le dullard de la commune
Well my mate of a mate, who was going to do the worktops decided that the job was too difficult for him.
Pete Maddex, of this parish, stepped in to get me out of the mire.
And today he did a brilliant job.
As always, I was in charge of the pencils.
Thanks Pete, you are a good friend and a talented bloke.
Pete Maddex, of this parish, stepped in to get me out of the mire.
And today he did a brilliant job.
As always, I was in charge of the pencils.
Thanks Pete, you are a good friend and a talented bloke.
My spirit level never leaves my side, Doug
I suggest for fitting a kitchen a little laser level is a huge benefit e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Quig...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
It makes levelling units accurately across a whole room a doddle and far easier than using a spirit level.
My method is to install the units approximately and then place little blocks across all the unit corners back and front which have a line drawn on at the same height (or I have also used lego bricks where a little stack of different colours give you a quick datum). Using the laser you can instantly see which corners are high/low and adjust accordingly.
Racers
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Happy to help, it's going to look good when it's finished.Well my mate of a mate, who was going to do the worktops decided that the job was too difficult for him.
Pete Maddex, of this parish, stepped in to get me out of the mire.
And today he did a brilliant job.
As always, I was in charge of the pencils.
Thanks Pete, you are a good friend and a talented bloke.
Pete
RobinBHM
Established Member
kitchen fitting......
>start with a corner unit
>fit base units first
>if you have full height units -fit those, adjust set your wall cabinet height off those.
if you have appliances like washing machine etc, if possible choose 650mm deep worktops, it makes getting the appliances back enough so much easier.
>start with a corner unit
>fit base units first
>if you have full height units -fit those, adjust set your wall cabinet height off those.
if you have appliances like washing machine etc, if possible choose 650mm deep worktops, it makes getting the appliances back enough so much easier.
