Kitchen Worktop Joints

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Whilst the mitre joint does look nice, I would never attempt it on a solid timber worksurface, especially beech. The level of movement is too great and the joint will soon open up. If you have ever seen beech architrave around a door frame you will have probably noticed exactly what I mean.
I would scribe and butt joint the corner with a short mitre to the front edge to get around the pencil bead top edge. I would also add two rows of biscuits along with three drawbar clamps.

Colin
 
Done the lot, most are butt-end (or "mason") joints... (looks s4it).. and couple mitered (depending on client wishes), but have to admit- mitered looked better, including L-shaped "island" one. Pain in the a4se to get it perfect, that requires plunge sawing with about 0.5* "undercut", literally x3 times lifting-trimming and again to get it perfect (both front and back) and even though block lines aren't perfect, including width being exaggerated (Width difference 1.5mm becomes 3mm on the outer joint), sanding the edge down (in my case plunge saw cut)...
long story-short: looked **** of a lot better than butt-joints.
BTW on a real block, MUST use biscuit joints or dowels AND MUST prep both sides whatever varnish-wax equally, MUST protect the **** of all edges from moisture and still, they'll move around, shrink significantly... ("secret") to use at least x3 plastic fitting blocks where possible away from the edges (Lets say 800mm wide, so 120mm from the ends and one in the middle UNDER TENSION (2mm down from flush)) Natural Countertops, but that'd be another topic...
ANW good luck and post back results
Hello.
I need to cut a hole in a kitchen worktop big enough to get my hand and forearm through.
Cutting the hole is the easy bit, it's the filling of it in a manner acceptable to swmbo that is the problem!
I thought a hole size of 4" sq or dia would be enough.
The idea is similar to that used on computer tables for the leads, but without the hole.
I can't think of any more questions to ask google :wha:
Any thoughts?
 
Hello.
I need to cut a hole in a kitchen worktop big enough to get my hand and forearm through.
Cutting the hole is the easy bit, it's the filling of it in a manner acceptable to swmbo that is the problem!
I thought a hole size of 4" sq or dia would be enough.
The idea is similar to that used on computer tables for the leads, but without the hole.
I can't think of any more questions to ask google :wha:
Any thoughts?
would this work?
https://procabinetsupply.com/products/round-two-piece-cable-grommet-with-brush-80-mm-diameter-hafele

Else, if you have big'ish off cut is to make SQUARE "half lap lid" with 2mm silicone sealed gap... it still is going to look "half a pig", as normally, if client wants natural worktops, they want it in perfect condition, including regular oiling/sanding time/expense considered/accepted. As to say, in your given scenario isn't possible or that I could think/know off
Sorry!
 
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