Jet 260 Planer Thicknesser Problem - NOW FIXED!

[Eric The Viking]

OK, I agree with the consensus that this is a big mistake on the part of the manufacturer, but you may or may not get a fix from them. Assuming this ends up as DIY, I've a thought developing (been watching too much of Steve M. jig-making recently!):

@Tom: Behind the adjustment handwheel, is the machine's cover reasonably flat? Also,do you know what's directly behind the cover (the bit that's behind the wheel)?

My reason for asking is that, assuming it's a flat piece of thin steel sheet, it ought to be possible to make a friction lock. Whether it would stay locked with all the vibration is another matter, but I had in mind something like this:

With a bit of thick steel plate and an M8 tap you could make a lever instead of the locking nut, eliminating the need for a spanner on-hand.

It looks from the Axy pictures though that the handwheel is some distance from the panel - this would be a PITA because of the twisting forces on the stud, and might not work for that reason.

Also, what about clamping the shaft tightly?

This can't be an insurmountable problem, and TBH I'm really surprised the manufacturers aren't helping more - they ought at least to be interested in why it's slipping, and to offer a solution. IMHO, you're being fobbed-off with the comment about the shaft encoder (or whatever it is)...

 

[wizer]

I've only skimmed these replies, will come back later when my brain is wired up right. Eric, that looks like a reasonable solution.

I spoke with Nick (JetMan) at Ally Pally today and he genuinely has not seen this before on any UK unit. He will be actively looking at ways to fix it and will send out an engineer if needs be. We both agreed that I first need to irradiate as much vibration as possible. i.e we need to try it off the wheeled base.

Going forward, if the problem still persists then the only option is to retrofit a solution.

 

[Chems]

The Thicknessing height handle comes out at an angle on the 260.

Borrowed that from Wobblyclogs but you can see the angle just about.

 

[would not]

If the central column has a threaded hole in it to take the locking shaft I'd try and get the parts to retro fit the locking handle.
Looking at the drawings again the locking handle is basically a screw that pushes a brass or plastic part to lock the shaft.

There's only two fix's to your problem stop the height adjustment handle moving or lock the table shaft (335) in the bore of (331).

 

[rileytoolworks]

I have the same problem with my Record 'Former RD 26'. I now feed the stock into the thicknesser and then hold the height control crank handle to stop it rotating. It's a right pain in the ar**! I would also like to know how to 'stiffen it up'

Misterfish

VIAGRA :wink: :wink: :wink:

 

[Eric The Viking]

The Thicknessing height handle comes out at an angle on the 260.

Borrowed that from Wobblyclogs but you can see the angle just about.

That's a pain. You could still do it, just about, but it's not very simple, and very much depends on what's behind the end panel. 's a shame.

 

[dickm]

On my elderly Lurem, there is a tapped hole through the side of the collar that holds the axle of the adjusting handle. There's a bent, threaded rod passes through that and (presumably) bears on a pad which presses against the axle. If that's not tightened up, the table does sink a bit in use, but it's an almost instant job to loosen/tighten the lock between adjustments to the depth of cut.
Not suggesting you should do this, but I'm guessing you could make something similar for your m/c?

 

[Karl]

Well, my machine too has started exhibiting the problems which Tom has identified. I thicknessed about 50 components, and noticed (on the final pass through the thicknesser :evil: ) that the depth of cut had dropped by about 0.25mm between the first and last pieces.

Surely the parts must be available from Jet to get the table locking mechanism retro-fitted.

Cheers

Karl (pi$$ed off)

 

[wizer]

As I said above, I can't help feeling a little responsible for this. I've sung the praises of this machine since I got it and really believed it was a good machine. My profuse apologies to all whom got this machine off my recommendation. I hope this isn't a problem on all machines and just a niggle with a few.

I have still not had a chance to get out there and fit the new blades. Taking it off of the wheel kit will be interesting if not impossible. But I might be able to jack\wedge it up some how.

Maybe tomorrow, if the moon is aligned with Jupiter...

 

[Ed68]

Wizer,
If its any help I also have the Jet 260 and it sits in a Dakota mobile base that lowers onto rubber feet once you've positioned it, and when I went to look for the part number it happens to be reduced in price from £49.00 to £29.99. (PS I've no connection to Rutlands or any other shops)
It may be more stable than ones constantly on 4 wheels.

I've had it a few years with no problems so far, I also fitted the digital height thing due to this thread did a few hours thicknessing some timber I bought with no movement from the handle. From time to time I do check the chain tension and adjust as required also oil it taking care not to get any on the rubber belts.

I hope theres a fix soon

 

[wizer]

Cheers Ed. Mine is also in the same Dakota wheeled base. It's my floor that's the problem.

It's good to hear you've not had any problems. But do keep an eye on it.

 

[dicktimber]

Karl
0.25mm is only 10thou!

I think we should have some perspective put into this problem.
If you took a cut of 4 or 5 mm on 50 pieces for instance 8 inches long you are going to get some sort of clunk as the wood exits the cutters and rollers.IMO
and 50 pieces???

I bet there would be very little slippage if the final cut was half a mil (20 thou).....

never the less as i said earlier we are debating this problem and trying to fix this problem on a piece of kit which costs in excess of £1000, when it is only just out of warranty, and been used only lightly,and not as a production machine.

It's about time that the manufactures are brought in and held to account as they have told me they are aware of this problem, and the only recourse is to fit the digital height adjuster. Which is intended to do what exactly?

Having said that Iam not having any problems at the moment.
I take several small cuts, max 1.00mm, because with these super saws we are all buying, the accuracy of them lets you cut to within a few mm before planing.
At any rate it is something that needs sorting out and by the manufacturers IMO.

SO TOM get on the phone!!!! :wink: :wink: :wink:

 

[Karl]

Dick - I understand your point. But think about this.

All the pieces thicknessed were the rails and stiles for some kitchen doors. If they are not all uniform thickness, then setting out for further machining becomes much more difficult.

The "final cut" I took was 0.5mm, not 4 or 5mm. I generally don't take more than 1mm off in any one pass at any rate (once i've got past the rough sawn face).

Movement of that level is not acceptable IMO.

Cheers

Karl

 

[9fingers]

IF someone will post the detailed pics i asked for then i'm happy to help find a solution.

I too am mystified by any improvement that the digital readout can offer so pics of that will be helpful too

Bob

 

[Karl]

Hi Bob

I'd missed your request - pics below.

Let me know if you want any more shots.

Cheers

Karl

 

[9fingers]

Thank Karl.

Do you know where the digital readout goes? Anything to do with the vacant tapped hole above the handwheel shaft?

I think Tom has the readout on his - maybe he could chip in?

Bob

 

[wizer]

give me ten mins...

 

[dicktimber]

Karl

BUT TEN THOU OVER 50 Pieces IMO is bu...all..
An orbital sand will make a bigger variance when sanding
granted it should not happen.

Will you be contacting the manufacturer?

 

[dicktimber]

15 mins Tom where are you!!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[wizer]

ooops got way laid by the temptation of desert....

Maybe it's because I bought The Limited Edition Wood Whisperer Machine?

:lol: