Jet 260 Planer Thicknesser Problem - NOW FIXED!

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On the Jet website the 260 is pictured with the locking lever fitted (at least the picture that is labled 260) If this indeed is the 260, it should be fitable.
What I can't understand is why they don't all have worm drive - it would solve all the problems (except the cash flow ones.)
 
If it's the large handwheel below the table that's turning, can you attach a G-clamp to the lowest edge (once you've set the thickness), so that the extra weight stops it rotating? Pro tem, that is.

I'd have thought a cam on a post next to the wheel ought to do it permanently, or the equivalent of a band brake on the circumference, fixed in similar style (giant Jubilee clip? I've got a few at 110mm nominal diameter that came with extractor fan fittings).

It sounds like an infuriating problem.
 
9fingers":1ur6h3u5 said:
Tom you asked for a solution to get the current batch done.
It was in that context that I suggested folding wedges.

Bob

Sorry Bob. Bit grumpy this morning.

Today I used a short plank standing upright from the floor and a G cramp to prevent the wheel from turning back. It seemed to work but it didn't 'feel' right. If I wasn't half way through a big(ish) job I'd take time to investigate what's going on. As it stands this 'solution' will have to do for now.

I managed to forget about nicking the blades and promptly sent the same board through earlier :evil: Let's just say that offsetting the blades didn't work, much. So I also need to replace the blades. :roll:
 
Tom
I have the jet....purchased on your recommendations!!!!!
I can see this being a serious problem and have to say a Heath robinson fix does not appeal.
I have fired off a letter to Axminster asking what they can do, because if it is a manufacturing **** up based on cost savings then it should be addressed by the maker. My table rise and fall is very stiff, and I wonder if there is some sort of adjustment you can make on the main pillar?

I had a kity before the Jet. It also did not have a table lock, but worked slightly differently, with four screwed bars at the corners to lift the table.
So the problem should not have occurred anyway.

I know it's a daft question, but are you surfacing the planks to get a face side before you stick them through the thicknesser, as any bow will just be replicated in the thicknesser if you don't?
Are you taking a huge cut?
The only other thing I could think of is if your knives need to be resharpened?
I would also see if you are having the same problem if you stick through a different type of timber.
I am not trying to teach you to suck eggs...just trying to give some constructive help.

Will advise when Axminster come back.
 
Think he said earlier on that he could see the handle winding as the timber went through, which points to the mechanism not locking
 
**** I had no way of knowing this problem would arise. Up until now, this machine has been my most treasured. It just worked, and worked well. Not owning a P/T before this or having an engineering background, the fact that the table didn't lock did not look like a problem to me. As I say, for three years it's worked perfectly. No problems with the resulting boards at all. I've used it a lot.

I think the other problems I am having are down to the knives. It must be as it's never happened before. Yes, I always face the boards before thicknessing. The more I think about, the more I'm certain it's the knives. I have a sharp set ready and they will be installed next time I'm in the workshop.
 
wizer":2vjcaubr said:
9fingers":2vjcaubr said:
Tom you asked for a solution to get the current batch done.
It was in that context that I suggested folding wedges.

Bob

Sorry Bob. Bit grumpy this morning.

Today I used a short plank standing upright from the floor and a G cramp to prevent the wheel from turning back. It seemed to work but it didn't 'feel' right. If I wasn't half way through a big(ish) job I'd take time to investigate what's going on. As it stands this 'solution' will have to do for now.

I managed to forget about nicking the blades and promptly sent the same board through earlier :evil: Let's just say that offsetting the blades didn't work, much. So I also need to replace the blades. :roll:

No problems Tom.
Provided you have not bitten too much out of the knives, I could sharpen them for you. Bring them with you on saturday and I can bring them back home, sharpen and post back.

I've got a pair of plain blades to fit the Kity I no longer have. They are 260mm x 20 x3 mm brand spanking new. Any good to you??

Bob
 
Tom
Never the less what you describe is wanting a reply from the manufacturers.
To this end I have contacted Switzerland asking why a lock isn't provided on this machine, and why this would happen.

No doubt someone with a physics? degree will explain to us exactly what forces are at play when timber is passed through a thicknesser and how much down force there is as opposed to longitudinal force when cutting, which is in fact trying to lift the timber up, not pressing it down...and the rollers are sprung ...so how much down force may be a lot less than we expect.......not enough to move the table??.....who knows....

Hope some one can explain?
 
9fingers":gar7cdom said:
, I could sharpen them for you. Bring them with you on saturday and I can bring them back home, sharpen and post back.

I've got a pair of plain blades to fit the Kity I no longer have. They are 260mm x 20 x3 mm brand spanking new. Any good to you??

Bob

Very kind on both counts Bob. Bring them along on Sat and I'll see if they match mine. The specs sound right.

****, thanks for contacting Jet. I'm sure Nick is on the case, but it doesn't hurt to reinforce the fact.

The only thing I can think of is that my 260 is on a wheeled base. But because my floor is to horribly uneven, it doesn't sit down properly. I really must get a new base made up as it's literally breaking my back to shuffle it in and out when I need it. The machine needs a service as it's started taking 3-4 seconds before the motor gets up to speed.

Perhaps I was too quick to sing this machine's praises. I hope not.

I'm off to mutter something about "this is all I need"....
 
Is this the same wizer who in another thread said ...

Fiddly? Are you kidding? Flimsy? Are you sure?

Seriously Roger, you need to see one in the flesh. I'm not saying your sedgewick isn't a good machine. But don't knock the Jet til you've seen it. It's a very substantial machine and since it's been setup has served me very well. It's not unusual for me to piss and moan about a tool/machine is it? This thing is really good, fact.


The Sedgwick MB naturally comes with a lock on the thicknesser bed. Boys toys...huh...who'd have 'em. :wink: :D :D
 
How many knives does your machine have Tom?

If it is three, then my offer of two knives won't be a lot of good to you.

I could still sharpen for you though.

Bob
 
Wizzer
Axminster are saying the following

Would more likely be the height adjustment handle is vibrating round rather than the table being physically pushed down.
Also there gut feeling is that dull blades could have changed the harmonics of the machine and that is having an effect.
They have contacted Nick who is at a show, so will wait till he replys...

I know it doesn't help you but at least they appear to be on the case.

Nothing from switzerland !
 
**** I missed this reply. Thanks.

Nick did contact me and suggest changing the blades. The blades were certainly not blunt, in fact had little use since their last sharpen and the finish on the timber was good. No obvious sounds of stress when the timber was going through the thicknesser.

However, I think I know what the problem might be. It's the base. It's sitting in a (Dakota) wheeled base and it does vibrate significantly. The other problem with this base is because of the small wheels it fouls the floor which ever position I put it in.

So as well as changing the knives I want a proper rolling base made up for it with good quality castors.

I'm going to copy Waka's design:

DSC_0029.JPG


Can anyone recommend very good quality 100mm castors? In the past I've always used axminster's castors but they do have some play in them when locked. I'd like this one to be rock solid when the wheels are locked for the above reasons. Any help would be much appreciated.
 
Tom,
Just had a reply from switzerland tech dept.
They say they know that the friction locking( as they describe it) can be loose because there is no locking mechanism!!!!
( I know, they stated the obvious!)
but there is a locking mechanism on the 12" model.......(don't scream)

However they say that if a digital display is attached the problem should be fixed!!!*****
I have no idea how this fixes the problem but this is what they are saying.

I hope the mods to the base cure the problem....will you let me know, please?
 
Thanks ****.... I have the digital display fitted!!! :roll:

I've not been back in the workshop since I discovered the problem. I'm going to try new knives (Thanks Bob) and see if that helps in any way (doubt it) then the only options I have is either to take it off the mobile base (don't think so!) or do as Sawdust Producer suggests and make a new base that some wedges can fit under, or some such like solution.

I do wonder what has caused it to start happening, whether it's unusual or if they're all going to start doing it after 3yrs?

I'm never going to rave about a tool again! :roll:
 
wizer":3grr0n3k said:
Thanks ****.... I have the digital display fitted!!! :roll:

I do wonder what has caused it to start happening, whether it's unusual or if they're all going to start doing it after 3yrs?

I'm never going to rave about a tool again! :roll:

Probably time to chuck it out and buy the 12" then :wink:
 
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