j suttcliffe & son planer

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wallace

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Hi all I thought you might like to see the planer I got a while ago in action. I have a problem with the finish when thicknessing. It is comeing out like a washboard. As you can see the feed rate is pretty quick and the only way to alter it is to change pulley sizes.


http://youtu.be/QgWqXNe-4Ac
 
It does seem a bit fast . It seems that the out feed table drops each time you feed the timber through which seems a bit strange.

Cheers

Jon
 
It looks lika a very good machine but somehing har happened to it........ I wonder...... has somebody replaced the motor and got the speed to high on everything ir is it just a feed pulley that has been replaced? That could be checked by calculating the cutting speed of the cutter head.
Knowing the oldtimers and their way of thinking there could have been two sets of pulleys supplied originaly. The one you have gives a high feed rate for rough planing and another now lost pulley would give a lower feed rate for better finish. This is just a home made theory about a brand of machine which I know nothing about.......... but the oldtimers weren't afraid of shifting pulleys and belts.
My Stenberg combination har those two feed rates but they made it with stepped v-belt pulleys.

Please tell us when you have found the reason for the sloppy table!
 
Hi heimlaga, originally this would have been ran from flat belting. There are holes which look like they had gears or pulleys at one time. The motor is from the 50's. The cutter head is not original it has 3 cutters. The big aluminium pulley you can see in the vid is the one that dictates the feed rate. The only way to slow it down would be to make it bigger. Alternatively I could run the feed from a differant motor then I could add an inverter and adjust the feed rate to waht I wanted.
Mark
 
Definitely looks like it's in a hurry to spit the board out, but some of those big machines do work fast.

Grannies/eggs and all that, but are all three knives set to exactly the same height? It almost looks as if only one is cutting
 
There is a given feed rate per cut for planing a good surface. There is also a given speed for the kind of cutterhead you have. I do not remember the numbers any more is it has been 14 or 15 years sinsce that lesson in vocational school. Knowing the cutter head speed you can carlculate the correct feed rate in metres per per minute as there are three times as many cuts per minute as there are revolutions per minute on a three knife head and the feed rate per cut can be found in some book or by measuring the wave lenght of the cutter strokes on a well planed board.

This way you are able to whech whether the fellow who modernized the planer did everything right. If not you can always shift soma pulleys. V-belt pulleys without hole in the centre are standard parts and any machinist will be able to turn the centre hole and machine the slot for the key to your specifications. Flat belt pulleys are rather easy to makeif it uses flat belts.

Edited to correct an error in my not so flawless memory.

Good luck!
 
Before playing with pulleys and things I took **** M's advice and checked the blade settings. They were not set correctly. They are of a clam design with two spring loaded nuts to help aligning the blades.
blade2-2.jpg


blade1-2.jpg


There must be a nack or procedure to do these because I tried for ages to set the blade and still couldn't. There is a slot in the back of the head for tapping the blade forward. Is there anyone clued up on how to set clam heads?
Mark
 
What does the first picture show Mark? An adjustable stop that the blade butts up against?

Both of my planers are clam-heads without any setting aid features. I place the blades in and nip up just to pinch them but still allow me to move them then i'll roughly by eye get them all equal and level then using use a short length of wood place it over the cutter head making a pencil mark on the wood inline with the edge of the table then i'll rotate the cutterhead so it picka up the wood and drags it along 5-10mm then make another mark inline with the edge of the table, i'll then move around the head positioning the blades so they all pick up and drag the wood the same distance. I'm sure you've head of this procedure before.

To adjust I'll normally just use a flat head screwdriver with a rubber handle, if they are standing proud i'lll knock them in a bit with the handle, sitting too far in get the screwdriver blade behind and push them forward. It's not a quick method and you'll find that you will have to keep working from one end of the knife to the other to get it right but eventually you'll get there!

On your machine the distance that the blade protrudes from the head is important because if they're set too far out they will remove too much wood meaning that the post cutter feed roller will not make contact with the wood, so the wood will stop feeding once it's past the first roller.
 
Thanks chaps, Andy the first picture shows a stud which is spring loaded so when you push the blade in if it goes to far it will spring back. The method you described is what I was trying, it just wasn't happening for me. It seems easier on my 6" planer and on the multico I have its just a matter of turning a screw. I was thinking of getting a dial gauge and a magnetic base. Dangermouse, the play on the table will be adjusted by the gib strips
Mark
 

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