Inca bandsaw

[condeesteso]

Jerome - that sawdust reflector looks very interesting. But I can't work out where on the door these are, and your comment 'which way round?'
I have a Kity 413 which is a mirror image of this, and have spent time tuning the dust extraction, so I'd like to understand this better.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

Jerome - that sawdust reflector looks very interesting. But I can't work out where on the door these are, and your comment 'which way round?'
I have a Kity 413 which is a mirror image of this, and have spent time tuning the dust extraction, so I'd like to understand this better.

The deflectors are on the front bottom of the plastic cover. The bottom one is still in place as you can see. But the top one has fallen off. It can go with either the flat face up or down. (The bottom one has the flat face down.) The lighter plastic that was under it is a perfect fit in either orientation. This is why I ask.

 

[maxheadroom]

Hi is this a record for cheapest 342 bandsaw from ebay - £10.50 won just before xmas by myself - i have now replaced the bearings, made a alu table insert and honed the blade guides - (did i mention its Swiss version) - still feeling smug (homer)

 

[John Brown]

You have good reason to feel smug.
Do you have any details on the alu insert?

 

[Robertj90]

Hello there.
Did you get the Tuffsaw blades for your Euro 260? Was 73" the correct size? I have just bought the same machine on Finn and will be replacing the same parts.

 

[Krysstel]

Hello there.
Did you get the Tuffsaw blades for your Euro 260? Was 73" the correct size? I have just bought the same machine on Finn and will be replacing the same parts.

I have used only Tuffsaw blades on my Inca and they are excellent. Brilliant in fact.
1854mm is the correct size.

May I ask how much you had to pay for your saw, on Finn ?


Mark

 

[Henning]

Hello there.
Did you get the Tuffsaw blades for your Euro 260? Was 73" the correct size? I have just bought the same machine on Finn and will be replacing the same parts.

If you are the lucky so and so who got a practically new one for 500 NOK... :x
Only joking of course. I've also only used Tuffsaw blades on mine, but i would have to check which size. Ian sorted me out with blades!

It's a cracking little saw, that's for sure! How about some pic's of yours?

 

[woodworkingMK]

Hello, I have chance to buy Inca Bandsaw. I don't know exact model, but I think it's 342.186 It's the same from the pictures.

My main concern is that the motor is beneath the table. I searched on internet and didn't find such models. Although in the instruction manual there is such option with woodstand and motor beneath the table.

Have you seen such model of Inca Bandsaw?

 

[sometimewoodworker]

Hello, I have chance to buy Inca Bandsaw. I don't know exact model, but I think it's 342.186 It's the same from the pictures.

My main concern is that the motor is beneath the table. I searched on internet and didn't find such models. Although in the instruction manual there is such option with woodstand and motor beneath the table.

Have you seen such model of Inca Bandsaw?

It's a variant version. 342.186 is the main model number but you are missing the last part of the model number.
Mine is 342.186.04 that one will be different you can find the manual for it here http://m.imgur.com/a/MhUvj

Of course you can't buy them new now.

 

[marcros]

Hello, I have chance to buy Inca Bandsaw. I don't know exact model, but I think it's 342.186 It's the same from the pictures.

My main concern is that the motor is beneath the table. I searched on internet and didn't find such models. Although in the instruction manual there is such option with woodstand and motor beneath the table.

Have you seen such model of Inca Bandsaw?

that looks like quite an inca collection in the pics. the planer thicknesser would be worth a look if you have the chance, particularly if the motor is at the side.

 

[woodworkingMK]

I wanted to buy the p/t, but he asked too much for it.

Now when I got p/t, I got interested in the bandsaw. All machines are brought from Switzerland. And are like new. He has table saw also, dust collector etc Here you can see all machines, http://www.pazar3.mk/mk/Listing/AdDetai ... ka-na-drva there are other things also, like very good bench.

He said that he bought them from a man who went into retirement, and he cleaned up everything in his workshop.

You can see that every machine is with motor beneath the table.

My main concern is that the moving of the bandsaw will be more difficult because I need to move the whole table also, and second concern is the setting and stabilty of the machine, because I have additional belt here. I hope I can set it corectly..

Here is the part of the manual where it can be seen the woodstand http://i.imgur.com/JhYVsnu.jpg

 

[marcros]

That is strange- I havent seen a bandsaw like that either. I think that back in the day you could buy the machines with or without motors. I am sure that I have seen it in a pricelist somewhere. I would expect that it is only a matter of removing the belt, and then the 4 bolts holding down the saw. Setting it back up shouldnt be an issue either.

 

[jimi43]

I have a table saw with a stand and the motor is below in the stand in the same way...but Startrite who imported them back in the day made the metal stand.

I can lift the whole thing up myself and move it by hand...actually..I carried it from one side of a field to the other when I bought it in a bootfair! :mrgreen:

Mine was not quite in the same condition...

But they scrub up nicely....

...stick a FREUD blade on it (190mm) and it cuts like a dream!

I would love to have the complete set...especially the bandsaw...and in that condition!! WOW!

I don't know how much you are talking about but in the USA these things go for a fortune...and for good reason...they are beautifully made machines.

I shouldn't worry at all about the motor...least of your worries...bite his hand off before someone else reads this and beats you to it! :mrgreen:

Cheers

Jimi

 

[marcros]

a very nice planer thicknesser made £870 at the weekend. It was the newer model with disposable blades. I keep hoping to get the table saw one one day to go with my bandsaw and p/t. rapidly running out of space though and dont need a second bandsaw, but i cant bear to part with it!

 

[woodworkingMK]

Hello, I bought the machine I was asking in the previous posts. The machine is like new, but it has not been used many years. I am in a process of putting into work and have some questions.

I have problem with the making wheels coplanar.

The upper wheel needs to go out for 7-8mm. I detached the bottom wheel to see if I can set it in, but that's the maximum it can go. So the only thing left me to do is setting the upper wheel.

Here is the situation:


I tried to put shims here:



And I got this,



I have at this point 3 points that are coplanar, but not the highest one, where there is a gap of 5-6mm, i.e. the upper wheel is tilted.

The problem is that it can't go any further, because the tensioning bolt cannot move anymore at the direction I need - at left



Any help would be much appreciated. By the way exact model of the machine is 342.186.0.2

 

[sometimewoodworker]

The important point is, can you get the blade to track correctly? If you can then stop worryingly

For this saw the tracking for the blade is very unusual in that it should track with the blade teeth just off the tyre.

The blade should not track in the centre of the tyre and the tyre is flat not crowned.

You can get the manual from the yahoo group

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/inc ... 20Manuals/

 

[Krysstel]

I had an issue with my wheels not being coplanar (page 7 and onwards in this thread) but I had the opposite problem with the top wheel being too far out in relation to the bottom wheel. I compensated by shiming out the bottom wheel.
Until I solved the coplanar issue I couldn't get the blade to track correctly no matter what I did or how I adjusted. Now, 3 or more years later, the saw tracks correctly all the time and no matter what width of blade I use, from 1/4" to 3/8".

Mark

 

[John Brown]

I had an issue with my wheels not being coplanar (page 7 and onwards in this thread) but I had the opposite problem with the top wheel being too far out in relation to the bottom wheel. I compensated by shiming out the bottom wheel.
Until I solved the coplanar issue I couldn't get the blade to track correctly no matter what I did or how I adjusted. Now, 3 or more years later, the saw tracks correctly all the time and no matter what width of blade I use, from 1/4" to 3/8".

Mark

Interesting. Maybe I'll devote some more time to trying to get my wheels co-planar. They surely aren't at the moment. When trying to achieve co-planarity, how did you have the tracking adjustmnet set?

 

[Krysstel]

Interesting. Maybe I'll devote some more time to trying to get my wheels co-planar. They surely aren't at the moment. When trying to achieve co-planarity, how did you have the tracking adjustmnet set?

Looking back at page 8 of this thread I wrote :-

Only the upper wheel can be adjusted and the following 2 pictures show the best I managed. I feel the blade is far too far in on the upper wheel and too far out on the bottom. But what can I do about it, if anything ? I'm tempted to just move the lower wheel further out on the spindle, lock it off with the grub screw and put a packing washer behind the spindle bolt. Is that a feasible solution or just plain daft ?

The pictures showed the blade towards the back of the top wheel and the teeth on the front edge of the bottom wheel.

Mark

 

[BillK]

Hi all,
A neighbour gave me an Inca, a Swiss one. It's a bit grubby but I'm sorting it out. The thrust rollers were manky, I got some skateboard bearings which are dead-on for size and very cheap.

I measured the broken blade on it which matches the 1854mm mentioned here, the manual says different sizes, confusingly - this is my first bandsaw so it's all very new. I'll need some blades, from this thread it looks like Tuffsaws is the place to go. I'll mainly be slicing guitar bodies, about 40mm thick, getting close to a template outline for final routing. Any recommendations on a blade spec? I've no clue what would be the right sort of thing -

cheers
Bill