Inca bandsaw

[JakeS]

I would be interested to know how to tune out drift other than by using a saw set.

I believe Steve is referring to adjusting the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot. Of course, he can't outright say "buy Workshop Essentials 4"!

I took a different approach, which has served me well for a little while now; if you can't get the blade parallel to the mitre slot, then you need a mitre slot parallel to your blade... ;-)
Of course, I've only used it for 90-degree cuts and 45-degree cuts in combination with a rafter square, other angles would need one copy of the angle cut beforehand to hold the wood against, unless you wanted to mount your existing mitre fence onto the sled...!



(As to eliminating drift, I found that sufficient tension + decent, wide blade + fence parallel to blade + careful feed rate was all I needed.)

 

[sometimewoodworker]

I would be interested to know how to tune out drift other than by using a saw set.

I believe Steve is referring to adjusting the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot. Of course, he can't outright say "buy Workshop Essentials 4"!

I took a different approach, which has served me well for a little while now; if you can't get the blade parallel to the mitre slot, then you need a mitre slot parallel to your blade... ;-)
Of course, I've only used it for 90-degree cuts and 45-degree cuts in combination with a rafter square, other angles would need one copy of the angle cut beforehand to hold the wood against, unless you wanted to mount your existing mitre fence onto the sled...!



(As to eliminating drift, I found that sufficient tension + decent, wide blade + fence parallel to blade + careful feed rate was all I needed.)

As some blades start with some drift and many develope some when you say "adjusting the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot." I can only think you mean adjust the table so the blade cuts parallel to the mitre slot. Is this what you mean? If not then I fail to see how to account for blade drift. You seem to have taken that approach.

My difficulty in understanding comes from the fact that some blades don't cut in line (blade drift) so adjusting the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot doesn't help.

I don't think I am being obtuse.

 

[Krysstel]

Hi Mark

Well done on getting the saw sorted....nice to see the LV blocks in-situ and like I said in the PM...the main thing for me is the noise reduction.

One thing to watch very carefully is that the thrust bearings are always such that when you put pressure on the blade the teeth do not move back into the blocks. As you can probably see from the old metal ones...it ruins the blocks and the set of the teeth so pay extra attention before each work session that they are set ok.

I really must get around to making myself a pair for my bandsaw!

Jim

Thanks :wink: And thanks again for making the blocks.
Good point about the thrust bearings. I'll definately check before I use the saw next time.

Mark

 

[Steve Maskery]

I believe Steve is referring to adjusting the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot. Of course, he can't outright say "buy Workshop Essentials 4"!

I couldn't possibly comment.

But yes, I am. It solves all these problems and mitre fences become useable again.

S

 

[Steve Maskery]

My difficulty in understanding comes from the fact that some blades don't cut in line (blade drift) so adjusting the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot doesn't help.

On the contrary, Jerome, it's exactly the way to solve the problem.

Can you try something out for me? Track your blade to run on the front edge of the top wheel and see what direction it cuts in. Now track it to run on the back edge of the wheel. Does it cut in the same direction? If it does then I am talking tosh, but if it doesn't then you will see what I'm driving at.

I'm not trying to pick a fight here!

S

 

[sometimewoodworker]

My difficulty in understanding comes from the fact that some blades don't cut in line (blade drift) so adjusting the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot doesn't help.

On the contrary, Jerome, it's exactly the way to solve the problem.

Can you try something out for me? Track your blade to run on the front edge of the top wheel and see what direction it cuts in. Now track it to run on the back edge of the wheel. Does it cut in the same direction? If it does then I am talking tosh, but if it doesn't then you will see what I'm driving at.

I'm not trying to pick a fight here!

S

Neither am I, and when I get to my bandsaw I will try it. FWIW that will be towards the end of Feburary. Any other tips?

 

[John Brown]

If the wheels/tyres are not crowned(as in the Inca case, and this thread was originally about an Inca), I don't see how the blade can be aligned to the mitre slot.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

If the wheels/tyres are not crowned(as in the Inca case, and this thread was originally about an Inca), I don't see how the blade can be aligned to the mitre slot.

I'm with you on that.

However I'm going to give steve's advice a try as it can't do any harm for a short time.

 

[Steve Maskery]

The top wheel is not necessarily vertical, is it? So if it is tilted to the rear, or tilted forward, it is the same as being crowned as far as the stance of the blade is concerned. It's just that it is more pronounced (and, in my view, easier) to adjust if there is some crowning. But the effect is still there.
Just try it!
S

 

[Steve Maskery]

Now look what you've made me do, it's so long since I used Sketchup.....

Can we agree on a few basics?
The blade will always ride in the least stressed position. That means the smallest diameter it can. So it rides "downhill".

If it's not in the centre and the wheel is tilted, the teeth and the back edge (Points A and B respectively in my diagrams) are under different degrees of tension. Point A is actually a different diameter to Point B. It's greater if the wheel is tilted back, it's less if the wheel is tilted forward. Not by much, certainly, but it is different.

Are we agreed on that? I do hope so. Right, so in these diagrams the blade is red and the wheel is grey. These are sectional views from the side.

and

As you can see, the effect is more pronounced if the wheel is crowned, but it is still there even if the wheel is flat.
It's this difference in diameter that causes it to cut to one side or the other, and by altering these stresses (by tilting the wheel) we can alter the direction in which it cuts, to eliminate drift.

Mine's a pint.
Steve

 

[sometimewoodworker]

.
It's this difference in diameter that causes it to cut to one side or the other, and by altering these stresses (by tilting the wheel) we can alter the direction in which it cuts, to eliminate drift.

Mine's a pint.
Steve

It looks as if by changing the tracking between the front and back of the wheel you are twisting it so it should change its position between the guides like so / | \ This is exaggerated of course. Is this what you mean?

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hooray!
=D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>

 

[sometimewoodworker]

Hooray!
=D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>

OK so you don't need the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot. You just need it to cut parallel to the mitre slot

 

[Steve Maskery]

Well that's a very fine distinction, but yes.
S

 

[Krysstel]

I think I mentioned earlier that I was planing to try resawing with my Inca.
The pictures below tell the story.
The timber is birch, 2,1m long, 11cm high, resawed to 2 boards 25mm thick.
I used this blade :-
5/8" - SuperTuff Fastcut 1854mm - 2297mm•Blade Length - 73” / 1854mm
•Bandsaw Model No. (optional) - Inca 340
•TPI - Fastcut
Didn't bother mucking about with high/long auxillary fences or a bigger table, just positioned two roller stands a meter or so in front and behind.
Fantastic smooth result which is more likely a result of the excellent Tuffsaw blade rather than my technique

Mark

 

[marcros]

looks a good result. is that about the limit, height-wise of the saw?

 

[Krysstel]

looks a good result. is that about the limit, height-wise of the saw?

I think it could probably manage the full 15cm on a good day, depending on the material :wink:

Mark

 

[richarnold]

Hi, Iv'e been using one of these saws for about 20 years now, and i have never had any problems. I once cut two 10 foot curved supports for a oriental style garden bridge out of 3 inch iroko, and it didn't even grunt. have to say it's one of the earlier swiss ones which does seem to make a difference. a luthier friend of mine had a later french model, and had quite a few problems with it

 

[Krysstel]

Mine's Swiss :wink:

Mark

 

[sometimewoodworker]

Just a couple of accessories that are designed for the saw and a question.

the question

a sawdust deflector has dropped off and I'd like to put it back on the right way round can someone take a pic of their cover please.