How to stop Lathe and Mill rusting in my shed

[Jacob]

I know it's a bit radical but single glazing properly installed becomes an efficient dehumidifier. Sash windows are the ideal - condensation drains out at the meeting rail gap and at the bottom sash on to the cill and out. Has to be enough of a gap.
Other window shapes can do the same thing, even a single sheet of glass fitted into a rebate but with no putty on the bottom edge but having the glass sitting on plastic spacers to preserve a gap.
Another very traditional solution was to have a condensation drip collecting channel at the bottom of the frame with a 1/2" drain pipe to the outside. I did my windows here with same detail but 10mm copper instead of 1/2" lead pipe. Works brilliantly - you can see it working when it's very cold - drips and icicles on the ends of the pipes.

 

[cjharley]

From experience it's all about maintaining the workshop and machine temperature a just a little higher than the outside, to ensure that the internal environment can never reach 100% relative humidity compared to the outside (effectively warm air holds more water than cold air, so warming it up reduces the likelihood water will condense), and the machines are above the "Dew Point" temperature.

Ideally you want to maintain difference of a few celcius between the inside and outside temperature even during the coldest periods of the year; that means the workshop might still be rather cold in the depths of winter, but does help keep the cost manageable.



First do what you can to Seal up any holes which will let rain in (even pinhole leaks), then try to reduce air-exchanges to at most "draughty room" kind of levels and finally insulate the shed as best you can (Thermawrap foil insulation is probably cheapest and easiest to install as a quick fix, just not particularly attractive, or well suited to being the only permanent fix).


Then pop a small heater (I found a 500w oil-filled radiator is good for this) in the shed, and leave it turned on during the winter months.

From experience it will end up costing more in energy, whilst preventing rust less effectively if you try putting it on a timer, than just leaving it on with its thermostat turned up just enough to keep the air temperatures warmer a few degrees (ideally about 4 celsius more) than outside.

Putting oiled sheets or blankets over the machines themselves can help further, and if you did that with the insulation and a small heater placed close to the machines you should be good for most of the year.


When it gets really cold (below freezing), then you might want to run a more powerful heater (or turn on the boost switch on your oil-fired radiator) in there during and a few days immediately after the cold snap, just to prevent condensation as the temperature comes back up.

ordered the road of thermawrap "my job for me and my wee man for the weekend" thanks

 

[cjharley]

I know it's a bit radical but single glazing properly installed becomes an efficient dehumidifier. Sash windows are the ideal - condensation drains out at the meeting rail gap and at the bottom sash on to the cill and out. Has to be enough of a gap.
Other window shapes can do the same thing, even a single sheet of glass fitted into a rebate but with no putty on the bottom edge but having the glass sitting on plastic spacers to preserve a gap.
Another very traditional solution was to have a condensation drip collecting channel at the bottom of the frame with a 1/2" drain pipe to the outside. I did my windows here with same detail but 10mm copper instead of 1/2" lead pipe. Works brilliantly - you can see it working when it's very cold - drips and icicles on the ends of the pipes.

The area where I will be using the machines is a steel frame shed with by-folding doors no chance for windows.

 

[Jacob]

I never tried it myself but Ive heard of people throwing a “sheet” over a motorbike and then sitting a very small heater, like a small tube heater on the floor under it,.....

A single lightbulb could be enough - old sort, not a modern low energy version. Machine just has to be a few degrees warmer than the ambient air in the shed.

 

[cjharley]

Magnets sewn into the corners means they stay put too

but to make your mistake a design feature like me you really need to F"*k up LOL Where do you live? I'm Northern Ireland

 

[emlclcy]

Is there any thing I can do to stop the machined surface from rusting?
I have recently purchased a mill and a lathe "not out of boxes yet" afraid of destroying them.

i use something called fluid film powerful rust & corrosion protection its lanolin based (spray can)
cheers
carl

 

[cjharley]

i use something called fluid film powerful rust & corrosion protection its lanolin based (spray can)
cheers
carl

i'm afraid of my new mill and lathe rusting, can't spray but all help is appreciated. What would u recommend for a welding bench spray i could weld on? I am making a Tab and slot bench might go stainless steel? its in a dam environment, my original bench is being cut up to support new working surface.

 

[Trainee neophyte]

i use something called fluid film powerful rust & corrosion protection its lanolin based (spray can)
cheers
carl

My workshop is too open to the elements to consider heating or insulation, but I do have sheep. I'm seeing possibilities for lanolin based solutions.

 

[ivan]

Dehumidifiers for a workshop won't use much electricity - less than half a 500W tubular heater. The heater has a thermostat (I hope), and a dehumidifier has a humidistat, so like the heater, it isn't on all the time. Also, most of the power taken by the dehumidifier ends up as heat - the air coming out is slightly warm - so it can do both jobs. Be careful !! compressor dehumidifiers work best in doors at normal room temperature, not shed freezing! You need a dessicant type which operates well down to freezing and below. Google "which dehumidifier" for an article about the choice.

Lanolin, so blacksheep tells me, is very water resistant so not lifted off the surface by condensation.

 

[cjharley]

Dehumidifiers for a workshop won't use much electricity - less than half a 500W tubular heater. The heater has a thermostat (I hope), and a dehumidifier has a humidistat, so like the heater, it isn't on all the time. Also, most of the power taken by the dehumidifier ends up as heat - the air coming out is slightly warm - so it can do both jobs. Be careful !! compressor dehumidifiers work best in doors at normal room temperature, not shed freezing! You need a dessicant type which operates well down to freezing and below. Google "which dehumidifier" for an article about the choice.

Lanolin, so blacksheep tells me, is very water resistant so not lifted off the surface by condensation.

i've got a radiator fitted now and insulating it with the foil insulation including getting rid of any air gaps

 

[jameskidd]

Oil the surfaces and cover with plastic sheets