How to stop a bandsaw wandering?

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stuart.grimshaw

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Other than the blade not being tracked properly, what else can cause a band saw to wander to the right like this? (I know, a table saw would be ideal but I don’t have one.)

It’s Iroko wood so very hard but it’s dry. The one piece I have cut was under a lot of tension and warped straight away when I cut it. That won’t help either.

29098978-2C55-4026-A8A2-2AD67E242781.jpeg
 
Have you done any curved cuts with that blade? Once you have, set it aside for curve and cutting to a line type work. Keep a decent blade for straight work only in future.
 
Blade, manufacturer and number of teeth . You have not said what blade is fitted or the thickness of the wood, ideally you want at least three teeth in the wood and no more than ten.
 
Iroko is notorious for releasing stored tension. Try a different wood and if the wander persists it's probably time for a new blade.
 
Usually a blunt blade with uneven tooth set will result in wandering.
Could be other things too, but these are the usual suspects.
The blade doesn’t feel blunt, but it is just the one that came with the machine and given it’s a Ferrex special from Aldi I suspect it could be better.
Have you done any curved cuts with that blade? Once you have, set it aside for curve and cutting to a line type work. Keep a decent blade for straight work only in future.
I have, but only in some 9mm MDf and a bit of pine.
is this with fence? Top guides and pressure roller, set to within 10mm of workpiece? Blade dims?
It is using the fence and the blade moves away from it. It’s using top guides at about 5mm.

I’m going to get a new blade on and see how that goes.
 
The blade doesn’t feel blunt, but it is just the one that came with the machine and given it’s a Ferrex special from Aldi I suspect it could be better.

I have, but only in some 9mm MDf and a bit of pine.

It is using the fence and the blade moves away from it. It’s using top guides at about 5mm.

I’m going to get a new blade on and see how that goes.
Try the MDF / pine if still wandering then it's the blade / tension, if straight it's the wood / capacity of the saw is limited.
 
First is getting the right blade, then getting it to the right tension, then setting the guides so they support but don’t interfere.

If you’re still seeing drift then often on a bandsaw you’ll need to adjust the fence to be parallel to the drift angle of the cut.

If it’s still not cutting straight I’d go back and check everything then if all the above is set properly things like checking the wheels and table etc. 99times out of a 100 it’ll be the blade or the guides though.
 
often on cheaper saws the blades are at best rubbish.....go to Tough Saw....
quite a lot on here use Ian.........
on my metal 12" band saw a standard blade will last from weeks but a M42 cobalt blade from Ian has only just been changed after 5 years...
it was not blunt ...just a couple of teeth missing and thats a bit dodgy when cutting thin wall steel tube.....
As for man made products like MDF i have a specific blade just for them, band saw as well as circ saw.....
These products or it's glue heavy on teeth....even carbide.....
so have a dedicated blade.....
 
it could be that the speed is not right, most bandsaws have 2 speeds where you change the belt, might be worth trying, I have mine set to the higher speed now for everything, with a brand new blade by tuffsaws you can't go wrong either.
 
I wouldn't suggest cutting MDF, especially if troubleshooting, as it could compress the set of the blade.
Not that I've tried, so will await what folks have to say on that, but worth noting it's likely at the very least I guess, quite harsh on the set if cutting curves with the stuff.
 
I tried quite hard to set up a ferrex saw for a neighbour, with the original blade and without success. No matter what I did I could not get the blade to track in the centre of the wheel. His saw does exactly the same thing.
 

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