how much heat required for my workshop?

[big soft moose]

Also, all of my 60w energy saving bulbs get too hot to hold. Any less wattage than that and I run the risk of falling over things I can't see.

if its actual 60W then it isnt an energy saver, a 13-15 w gives the equivalent light of an incandesent 60w, 26-29 W cfl = 100W incandecent, and 38-42w cfl = 150W inc

You can get (for a price) a 55w cfl which is the equivalent of a 300W incandecent but that is exceptionally bright and not suited to domestic applications

 

[Benchwayze]

I dunno then Moose.

They were sold to me as energy saving bulbs. They are marked as 60 watts, and they give just about tolerable light for our rooms. (We used to buy 100 watt bulbs for room illumination.)

I can't do anymore than buy what I am told are energy saving bulbs.
:?

One thing I do know is I find them too yellow for use over a machine, and I use 'daylight' bulbs to illuminate the saw-table.

Cheers
John

 

[big soft moose]

I dunno then Moose.

They were sold to me as energy saving bulbs. They are marked as 60 watts, and they give just about tolerable light for our rooms. (We used to buy 100 watt bulbs for room illumination.)

I can't do anymore than buy what I am told are energy saving bulbs.
:?

One thing I do know is I find them too yellow for use over a machine, and I use 'daylight' bulbs to illuminate the saw-table.

Cheers
John

Being flourcent energy savers dont give a yellow cast either. I suspect your bulbs are still incandecent but are "energy saving" in the sense that they are 60W rarther than 100W and thus saving you the 40W - they certainly dont sound like CFL to me (or LED which are the energy saver version for halogen spots)

If you want 100W light you need summat like this http://www.litebulbs.co.uk/product/2179 ... -bulb.aspx

and they should be if not cool to the touch certainly no danger of setting anything on fire.

 

[9fingers]

John,

Are these bulbs of yours significantly heavier than the tungsten equivalent and much heavier at the contact end?

These are both characteristics of CFL.

Bob

 

[JohnBrown]

On the subject of heating and insulation, I've just bought twelve 8' by 4' sheets of 50mm Celotex on ebay. I was planning on transporting them on my roof-rack, will they suffer if they get wet?

John

 

[9fingers]

I think Celotex is a closed cell foam so should not suffer too much.
I think I would as a minimum, arrange for the leading edge of the stack on your roofrack to be protected by some heavy polythene as this area will be bombarded by rain at your roadspeed.

Bob

 

[PeterBassett]

On the subject of heating and insulation, I've just bought twelve 8' by 4' sheets of 50mm Celotex on ebay. I was planning on transporting them on my roof-rack, will they suffer if they get wet?

John

What price did you get them for? I was pricing up celotex at B&Q last night and it aint cheap!

Pete

 

[JohnBrown]

£12 each

 

[JohnBrown]

How much were B&Q asking?

 

[PeterBassett]

The 50mm were £26 summat! You got a good price.

 

[Benchwayze]

John,

Are these bulbs of yours significantly heavier than the tungsten equivalent and much heavier at the contact end?

These are both characteristics of CFL.

Bob

Hi Bob,

The bulbs are a bit big yes. The bent tube lighting element is enclosed in a globe but you can make out the element when you first switch them on. However they gradually brighten into a yellowish light and they become too bright to stare at!

So, I dunno really. They aren't tungsten and I thought I was 'doing my bit'! They are about £8.00 a throw too!

Regards
John

 

[PeterBassett]

If they are CFL, which they sound like, then they'll be about 12-15W and marketed as "60W equivalent" or some such.

We keep getting new ones for free through the post!

 

[Benchwayze]

If they are CFL, which they sound like, then they'll be about 12-15W and marketed as "60W equivalent" or some such.

We keep getting new ones for free through the post!

British Gas gave us some free bulbs. The candle-power is feeble. I doubt if a glowworm would show any interest!


John

 

[PeterBassett]

I'll agree they are a bit on the wimpy side. Plenty good enough for a hallway or two and for when I'm reading on the throne. :lol:

 

[Benchwayze]

So I am not the only one with a magazine holder in the bathroom!

 

[9fingers]

John,

Are these bulbs of yours significantly heavier than the tungsten equivalent and much heavier at the contact end?

These are both characteristics of CFL.

Bob

Hi Bob,

The bulbs are a bit big yes. The bent tube lighting element is enclosed in a globe but you can make out the element when you first switch them on. However they gradually brighten into a yellowish light and they become too bright to stare at!

So, I dunno really. They aren't tungsten and I thought I was 'doing my bit'! They are about £8.00 a throw too!

Regards
John

The reading lamp over my chair has 3 U shaped tubes and is made by Osram and marked 20w 165mA (hence about 40VA). It gives an acceptable light to read/write/surf by and runs with a surface temperature on the glass part that I can just keep my hand on continuously without discomfort - not very precise but hopefully give a good idea of the temperature. Cost about a pound I think.

Bob

 

[Benchwayze]

Thanks Bob,

I am going to use the freebies in the workshop over the benches, if they are bright enough. I might fit one for night-time use on the landing. I am at that stage where I have to get out of kip at nights to check the water system. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[studders]

The problem with most of the low energy ones is that you've done what you went into the room for long before they get properly bright.

 

[Benchwayze]

The problem with most of the low energy ones is that you've done what you went into the room for long before they get properly bright.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
How true!
Full marks Studders...
John

 

[big soft moose]

The problem with most of the low energy ones is that you've done what you went into the room for long before they get properly bright.

true but on the otherhand they are so low energy that you can leave them on if you are popping in and out - i normally turn on the 'shop lights , and the heater if its cold and then come back in to the hoese for a brew while it all warms up