How do you get your ideas from your head to completion

[Greedo]

I have a notebook I carry at all times and jot down every idea.

Ideas I think are viable I then try and sketch it out.

Then work out sizes and batter in and make it.

I don't use CAD, scale drawings, or full size rods.

Don't know if I'm taking shortcuts but it works for me.

How do you guys do it?

 

[marcus]

I bat things back and forth from head to paper to Sketchup and back again until I think it's about there. Then full or half sized mock up even if only out of cardboard to check real life proportions and any mechanisms etc.. Then make adjustments to drawings if necessary. Then either draw up a rod or a story stick, or if it's very simple just work from sketches.

 

[Greedo]

I bat things back and forth from head to paper to Sketchup and back again until I think it's about there. Then full or half sized mock up even if only out of cardboard to check real life proportions. Then make adjustments to drawings if necessary. Then either draw up a rod or a story stick, or if it's very simple just work from sketches.

What's a story stick mate? Never heard that term. I sometimes make mock ups if it's difficult too.

 

[marcus]

A story stick is like a rod but simpler. You take a long piece of, say, 1'"x1" and mark on it all the measurements at their actual size, then use that to set things out. I tend to do horizontal measurements along one edge and vertical ones along another. Means you have the accuracy and repeatability of a rod without having great sheets of mdf to move about and store.

 

[condeesteso]

I know Sketch-up has many fans but I never got round to learning it properly (even have a tutorial e-book)... but I do have a fairly large blackboard in the workshop and that is excellent, as I can look at it (incl dimension numbers etc) from just about anywhere. And I thought a story stick was a rod, just what the Americans call it?

 

[marcus]

Well my version of a story stick is a stick!

 

[Jelly]

I tend to work the kinks out in my head and then once the idea is fully formed produce a multiview orthographic projection; usually by hand, but sometimes Using CAD if the shapes are unusual. At this point I'll work out the timber requirements and get a quote; if I'm unsatisfied with the price and not buying enough to haggle effectively, I may well go back and look at how I can reduce the cost without compromising my idea.

Once I've finalised the plan and got the timber, I'll then mark out the logical first piece, produce it, and use it as a jig to produce all subsequent identical parts, and all the joints in parts that it connects to, and repeat until I've got everything... then dry fit, make any refinements and finally assemble the piece.

 

[marcus]

I'll then mark out the logical first piece, produce it, and use it as a jig to produce all subsequent identical parts

That's an interesting idea — when you say use it as a jig how does it work in practice? Do you draw a rod using your piece as a guide, or some other process?

 

[adzeman]

Dont knock the stick but stick to it.

I work similar to Marcus using sketchup, Rods and the stick. Most of problems with measurement between using metric and Imperial is because brick courses are in Imperial especially if you are working in a building with some age or on a new structure the designer stating joist centres at 400 instead of 405.
Sketchup when you get used to it is brilliant, saves loads of time, a great way to show your client what the finished article is going to look like. They become very impressed when you spin it round or tip it over or, if a building a walk through. I recently assisted a planning application by showing the commtee how the roof would look using dormers instead of velux. Another client had a problem with a neighbour complaining the an extention would take his light. With Sketchup you can position the drawing on Google earth giving latitude and longtitude and it will cast shadows for any date and time in the year and its free. Google have a free add on which will develop/explode your drawing which you add tabs cut it out fom the print stick it together giving you a little model (great for model railways)

Using rods solves many problems. Transfer the overall dims from the stick on to the rod, machine your stock and cut short ends from them and placing these in position on your rod and draw them in. Cut your stock to length by placing on the rod and transfering the dimensions to the stock or fixing the stops on your machine. Your tape/rule stays longer in your pocket eliminating measure twice cut once and still get it wrong.

 

[Jacob]

I have a notebook I carry at all times and jot down every idea.

Ideas I think are viable I then try and sketch it out.

Then work out sizes and batter in and make it.

I don't use CAD, scale drawings, or full size rods.

Don't know if I'm taking shortcuts but it works for me.

How do you guys do it?

You are missing one big short cut, which is the rod.
Basically a ful size drawing, which may be sectional e.g. just the face of a chest of drawers in section, or vertical and horizontal sections of a door/window. This is just a pictorial record of all the little decisions and calculations you will have to make anyway so it involves no extra work but they are recorded in one place. It also tests the design and verifies that everything will fit. Also you can take your measurements directly from it without any further measuring or calculating. Three big advantages, win, win and win!

 

[Jelly]

I'll then mark out the logical first piece, produce it, and use it as a jig to produce all subsequent identical parts

That's an interesting idea — when you say use it as a jig how does it work in practice? Do you draw a rod using your piece as a guide, or some other process?

Like a marking out jig (these may be specific to volume production environments; but the idea is that its a jig that phycically aligns with the workpiece to mark a set dimension or dimemsions with high repeatability)...

If i'm satisfied that the length, joints and other shaping details are perfect, I can place it on the next piece of stock, clamp it in place and transfer the dimensions and positions directly with a knife or mechanical pencil.

Sometimes I'll line up many pieces with the jig piece against a straight edge and use a large square to transfer measurements en-masse.

I recently had 64 tenons to cut, I made one tenon, then marked out the remaining 63 in batches of 9 using that one (my clamps could onl6 accomodate ten at a time), then cut them all to the lines, only took about two hours; marking each piece individually, would have been far slower.

 

[Jacob]

.....
I recently had 64 tenons to cut, I made one tenon, then marked out the remaining 63 in batches of 9 using that one (my clamps could onl6 accomodate ten at a time), then cut them all to the lines, only took about two hours; marking each piece individually, would have been far slower.

You are getting there but its much easier to use a rod. You mark them all from the same rod (i.e. marks on a board - lengths plastic faced chipboard shelving being a convenient option). Then you stack your components (no clamps) with face/edge marks in alignment and mark them in batches with set-square, from the rod.
You can also add any details you like to the rod for further reference/marking, or lay on components such as hinges to see if they fit, and so on.
The weird thing about woodworking is the the rod seems to have been overlooked in recent years though the same technique is common place in lots of other crafts/trades. I suppose it's about de-skilling etc etc.

 

[adzeman]

I use the stick to measure over all sizes, mainly existing openings, essential for a staircase to work out the rise. This is transfered to the rod where detail is added.

 

[Templatetom]

I usually draw objects to scale on my computer but when I am giving a lesson to others on setting out a project I recommend the introducton to a Grid - Graph paper which can be downloaded on your computer. I would also carry a book of Grid paper should I be out and about or simply waiting for a Doctors appontment, or waiting for my good lady when she is out shopping.
Grid paper is available in both imperial and metric purchased from your local newsagent

 

[Dibs-h]

You are missing one big short cut, which is the rod.
Basically a full size drawing, which may be sectional e.g. just the face of a chest of drawers in section, or vertical and horizontal sections of a door/window. This is just a pictorial record of all the little decisions and calculations you will have to make anyway so it involves no extra work but they are recorded in one place. It also tests the design and verifies that everything will fit. Also you can take your measurements directly from it without any further measuring or calculating. Three big advantages, win, win and win!

I too use a rod - but occasionally will use CAD if it's the 1st time and it's complex. I did my Kingpost trusses for my shed roof in CAD (just sectional) to ensure everything worked (my tame SE wanted them too, to run thru his design software to ensure they would work) and then produced sub drawings for each joint off the main drawing.

But usually a hand drawn sketch is sufficient and then a rod like Jacob suggests when construction starts.

Dibs

 

[woodchip11]

Whats a Rod ?

 

[custard]

I was going to say that I just buy a plan from Fine Wodworker and build it...but after reading about orthographic projections, CAD, and maquettes, I think I'll just keep my mouth shut!

 

[adzeman]

Heres one I made earlier

This a simple one for a Ledged & Braced shed door showing a horizontal cross section.

 

[No skills]

Thankfully I never have to make anything complex, quick sketch on a piece of paper and work out a few measurements. Have a look, have a think, have a measure, draw something - not always in that order and not always only once

Hats off to the folks that have the patience to do it propper, prolly saves a bit of time in the long run.

 

[maltrout512]

Thankfully I never have to make anything complex, quick sketch on a piece of paper and work out a few measurements. Have a look, have a think, have a measure, draw something - not always in that order and not always only once

Hats off to the folks that have the patience to do it propper, prolly saves a bit of time in the long run.

What is propper, forget the spelling. I've seen people go to great lengths in plans done either with cad etc or on a board with paper and all the great detail that goes with it all for what. Is the customer going to pay you for that time.. I think not in general, because mine don't. They want what they want made and sitting in their house at a sensible price and time span.
I'm not saying that you don't need to work to measurements but you do need to work to a time / price and that is what I work with.

Just my way.