homemade table saw

[accyjoiner]

i bought a clm1500tss for £6 with a burned out motor anyway my plan is to put a motor on the outside of the saw much like a craftsman contractors saw they sell in the u.s my question is has anybody ever tried putting a longer arbor on to accomodate a dado stack because i just seen so much use for them rebates tenons coving dados and many joints from izzy swan and john heisz

 

[Dee J]

Greetings. That sounds like a rather challenging engineering project. If my googling is correct that's a B&Q own brand diy saw - so not the finest starting point. Might be better to get a more robust starting point.. and there are alternative ways to achieve much of what you want. Hand tools, planes and a reasonable router - maybe in a router table.
Good Luck
Dee

 

[lurker]

Its just not worth the effort.
A usable and safe saw can be had for under £300
If you cant afford that stick to hand tools

Anyone who looks to USA internet for advice about woodworking machinery and methods of use is on a fast track to A&E.

 

[accyjoiner]

harsh but after much research i think im just gonna stick to the double blade method and letting the teeth land in the gullet of the other blade much simpler unfortunately needs more passes but gonna save me a heap of trouble

 

[accyjoiner]

and as for usa woodworking being unsafe? seriously check out izzy swan or john heisz they are really good at what they do i cant understand that comment at all

 

[lurker]

Sorry I did not mean to be rude to a new member
Welcome to the forums

..........I'm still right tho :wink:

 

[DiscoStu]

Hi Accyjoiner.

I think the guys are just looking after your best interests. Don't confuse nice quality work with safe working practice though. Just because someone has made something nice without injury doesn't make it safe practice.

There is a video of a guy on you tube showing the benefits of a riving knife, even though he deliberately demonstrates the issue and is prepared for it, he still nearly has a nasty accident. A router table will give you rebates etc. Best to keep the riving knife and blade guard in place where you can. I do however think there are times when you might need to remove a blade guard - such as tenons but there are also other ways of achieving the same thing.


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[MattRoberts]

harsh but after much research i think im just gonna stick to the double blade method and letting the teeth land in the gullet of the other blade much simpler unfortunately needs more passes but gonna save me a heap of trouble

Be very careful of that method - if one blade sticks and rotates it can shear of the carbide teeth of the other blade, and shout them at you.

There's a video on YouTube where a guy uses bicycle inner tube rubber to separate the two blades - it's a somewhat safer method

 

[accyjoiner]

clever hmmm shims are deffo an improvement on it and the rubber would give traction reducing if not stopping movement i'll bear that in mind when i get it going to be honest im only gonna use it for bench work im gonna make a small table maybe foldable with a slot to house a circular saw under it for site work (ripping arcs pipe boxes that sort of thing)

 

[accyjoiner]

you dont have a link for said video matt?

 

[DiscoStu]

This is the video I was on about:

http://youtu.be/u7sRrC2Jpp4


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[MattRoberts]

Sorry, on my mobile. Will try and dog it out later

 

[accyjoiner]

yeah thanks discostu but i understand the dangers of wood machines i have been using them for 11 years now and i never once had kickback cuz im not stupid enough to feed a machine either the wrong way or too quickly thats not even the issue here i were asking about swapping an arbour to accommodate a dado cutter and fyi they are available in this country too but most saws wont have a long enough arbour unless your willing to pay £800 or £900 i only been on this site half a day and im sick the numpty trolls already

 

[blackrodd]

Hello Accyjoiner and welcome, The sawbench you mentioned in you're first post looks to be a cheepy and hardly
merits the locating and fitting of a longer arbour and the beefier bearings needed to support the Dado sets.
An outside motor would be OK and suitably guarded obviously.
This subject was discussed recently, there are flat topped wider kerfed circular saw blades available, making box joints can be a bothersome job in sourcing and setting up but probably well worth the effort and a smaller saw and motor will drive this, Alternatively you could look out for another saw bench model that would accept a full Dado set.
These pop up for sale sometimes on Fleabay or buy direct from the states.
As you say Izzy and co are well set up in these projects but looking at the benches you can see they tend to be weighty and well made,
Please don't be harsh on the response so far, It's easy to assume that Newbies know not a lot, which is usually the case.
Regards Rodders

 

[accyjoiner]

thank you blackrod im actually quite impressed with the clm1500tss saws fence and table top the folding legs aren't that great but im intending on setting it up permanently in my workshop so not really a problem its also got 2 mitre slots so a sled could be made i've even got a speed regulator for my motor so if i put the right blade on (evolution for reclaimed timber diamond continuous rim for sharpening tct blades if i can still alter the angles after i put new motor on)

 

[blackrodd]

Fully agree with the top, very useful.
Been hunting round and found Solent Tools seem to have spares for you're saw bench should you need any bits,
I dare say that a replacement motor will be expensive, or brushes may be too late, link below.
Regards Rodders

http://www.solenttools.co.uk/

 

[accyjoiner]

i gave up trying to get a replacement motor they made in china and you gotta order like 1000 so im using a washing machine motor i salvaged its even got the same belt pulley on as the arbour on the saw so as long as i have the motor at the right distance i could even use the belt from a washing machine so if and when that goes i can replace it for free

 

[heimlaga]

Trying to stay ballanced...... well...... I see nothing wrong with installing a longer arbour to take a dado head. The concept is sound if properly done on an adequate saw. Some European saws actually take dado heads and dado heads are an acceptable practise If and only if the saw is suitable for this.

-A dado head is rather heavy compared to a sawblade. As all saws in professional use and all new saws sold are required to stop within 10 seconds after pushing the red button you will need a rather powerful braking system to go with your dado head unless you are a pure hobbyist taking a calculated risk with your own fingers. Most manufacturers deliver their saws with short arbour in Europe just to avoid the significant additional cost of a powerful braking system.
-To resist the forces involved when running a dado head the whole saw must be solid enough. Personally I would not attempt this on a ligt duty saw like yours.
-When using a dado head you cannot use a riving knife mounted guard nor a high riving knife. This means that you need to fabricate a solid overarm guard and a riving knife that is either low enough to not protrude above the blade or easy to remove and replace.
-Washing machine motors are usually open designs with visible windings. Much like the old open electric motors of the 1910-s and 1920-ies. They tend to get full of dust and the insulation on the windings is easily damaged by pieces of wood dropped onto the motor or simply worn away by dust spinning around. I can go as far as accepting an old open ended motor in a hobby workshop but entirely open motors including washing machine motors have nothing to do in or near a wood workshop. They are just not safe enough in my oppinion.
-When an accident happens (they happen to me) you will be better off if you have though about liability issues. CE-marked machines are approved as an entiety and all changes are at your own risk. Remember that.

I have modified and converted a number of machines myself for professional use. Converted a band saw and a big cirkular saw bench from line shaft driven to motor driven.
To produce a good conversion one has to do the homework properly before startying. Know how changes affect te machine and how they work together. Know which safety regulations one must follow to save one's own fingers and which ones one can disregard as just paperwork. Understand the engineering of the machine down to every last detail more accurately than the engineer who designed it ever did. Be a good scrounger with an eye for picking the good part from a heap of assorted parts. Be a decent machinist and fitter and welder able to figure out ways of making part that will work all while knowing one's limitations.
First and foremost choose a suitable machine for the conversion. There are plenty of broken machines on the market to pick from.

I think your project is both doable and a good idea but you have to pick a more suitable saw to start from and start doing your homework.

 

[dzj]

Google says your TS comes with a 254mm blade. Washing machine motors are usually in the 1 Hp range, so you'll probably
need to reduce blade diameter, particularly for ripping.

 

[accyjoiner]

well the motor i got is much larger than the original which is 1800w (yeah i know the saw is advertised at 1400 stupid but it is what it is) and it isn't labelled so no idea what power it is but the speed is more than adequate i dunno if there is a way to measure the wattage maybe with a multimeter i should prob test it but honestly it is much larger than the original so im confident it will be enough and as i have already said im not interested in a dado set anymore far too much like hard work to change the arbour when 2 blades will be enough for box joints and tenons not like im going to be mass producing stuff probs only for kitting out my workshop and that be the end of it