Help MT2 stuck

[deema]

Would welcome any ideas, hints or suggestions.
Well, we have an MT2 arbour stuck in a shaft and will not budge. I’m running out of ideas on how to get the two apart. It does not have a slot for a drift, so no chance of getting at it from the rear unfortunately. It’s a high speed shaft, part of the pin router we are renovating: we have a thread about it.

So far tried dunking it in penetrating oil, percussion encouragement, heating up the outer, and applying a lot of pressure to pull it out. It’s being stubborn and not shifting. This is the arrangement we came up with to pull it, it’s very difficult to get anything to pull. However, there are a couple of bolts pushing the two clams apart.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Drill a hole in through the end, thread it, insert a bolt and work out a way of putting a puller on it?

 

[Myfordman]

I think heating followed by shocking it with cold fluid ideally with the improvised puller attached to keep the tension on it.

 

[Old.bodger]

Could you open up the gap between your two ‘ring clamps’ to a distance that will allow you to use a couple of small hydraulic bottle jacks ?

 

[Inspector]

Got any NDT (non-destructive testing) companies around where you live? They can X-ray the shaft and with the film you would know where the end is and either drill a hole in the shaft behind the taper, thread it for a Zerk fitting and with a grease gun hydraulic the taper out, or fit a hydraulic hose fitting and hook it to heavy equipment (bull dozer, big farm, tractor, skid steer) and use its hydraulic system to apply 3,000 to 6,000 PSI to push it out. The X-ray would also show you where to mill a slot so you can try a tapered drift. If you go the grease fitting route you could mill the slot in it after.

Otherwise you are down to heating the pushers and shaft as is and then pour liquid nitrogen on the taper portion to make it shrink and beat on it.

Now way to get wedges in like the ones used to pull drill chucks?

https://www.amazon.ca/Wedge-Sets-Se...ill+chuck+taper+wedges,industrial,165&sr=1-29
Pete

 

[deema]

Could you open up the gap between your two ‘ring clamps’ to a distance that will allow you to use a couple of small hydraulic bottle jacks ?

Unfortunately not, and at the other end of the shaft is a thread for a nut, but it’s nit sufficient to make a fixture to apply any real pressure.

 

[gcusick]

Would welcome any ideas, hints or suggestions.
Well, we have an MT2 arbour stuck in a shaft and will not budge. I’m running out of ideas on how to get the two apart. It does not have a slot for a drift, so no chance of getting at it from the rear unfortunately. It’s a high speed shaft, part of the pin router we are renovating: we have a thread about it.

So far tried dunking it in penetrating oil, percussion encouragement, heating up the outer, and applying a lot of pressure to pull it out. It’s being stubborn and not shifting. This is the arrangement we came up with to pull it, it’s very difficult to get anything to pull. However, there are a couple of bolts pushing the two clams apart.


View attachment 143236

I do like ‘percussive encouragement’!!

 

[deema]

Got any NDT (non-destructive testing) companies around where you live? They can X-ray the shaft and with the film you would know where the end is and either drill a hole in the shaft behind the taper, thread it for a Zerk fitting and with a grease gun hydraulic the taper out, or fit a hydraulic hose fitting and hook it to heavy equipment (bull dozer, big farm, tractor, skid steer) and use its hydraulic system to apply 3,000 to 6,000 PSI to push it out. The X-ray would also show you where to mill a slot so you can try a tapered drift. If you go the grease fitting route you could mill the slot in it after.

Otherwise you are down to heating the pushers and shaft as is and then pour liquid nitrogen on the taper portion to make it shrink and beat on it.

Now way to get wedges in like the ones used to pull drill chucks?

https://www.amazon.ca/Wedge-Sets-Se...ill+chuck+taper+wedges,industrial,165&sr=1-29
Pete

Now that’s a good idea, I will have a google to see if there are any company’s.
I can make wedges, but the pressure from the bolts is probably higher than I can get with wedges.
I’ve run it through one heat cycle, and placed water in the ‘cup’ that receives the collet to rapid cool the MT2 shaft. So far, it’s being persistent that it wants to remain where it is.

 

[Inspector]

Now that’s a good idea, I will have a google to see if there are any company’s.
I can make wedges, but the pressure from the bolts is probably higher than I can get with wedges.
I’ve run it through one heat cycle, and placed water in the ‘cup’ that receives the collet to rapid cool the MT2 shaft. So far, it’s being persistent that it wants to remain where it is.

If you put the wedges in a press or clamp It might apply more pressure than the bolts it the taper of the wedges is finer than that of the bolts.

Pete

 

[okeydokey]

This may be way out of line and total rubbish but if you were able to grip the shaft in say a vice and then put a long pair of stilsons on the arbour you may be able to twist it out?
or if you were able to put the arbour in a vice with the shaft hanging below, could you bolt a metal bar onto the other end on the shaft and sharply hit both side of the bar at the same time it and gravity with simultaneous strikes might force it out. Sort of sliding hammer idea
If the arbour wont grip in a vice, see if you can weld something to it so it will fit in a vice
well, something along one of these thoughts might spark an idea good luck

 

[sawtooth-9]

Is it a morse arbour ( with the male end protruding ) or a morse sleeve ?
If it's a sleeve, you may have to machine it out ( and re-ream the morse taper in the shaft ).
If it's an arbour, you could try welding a stud ( about 5/8 inch ) and use this against the END of the shaft o provide axial force while you give it a decent wack. The welding heat may help free it up, even though the expansion is coming from the inside - just let it cool first !
Not in favour of the ring clamps, because if they slip, they will damage the shaft

 

[deema]

@sawtooth-9 thanks for the suggestions, it’s an arbor.
The two rings clamps are against substantial shoulders. I have my fingers crossed they don’t slip.

 

[Torx]

I can’t help but think, even if you get it apart by whatever means the taper surface is likely ruined anyway, so machining it out if you can’t get another seems the best option.

 

[Richard_C]

Years ago I spent most of a day trying to release a taper fit ball joint on my car, nut came off easily but no amount of thumping or pulling worked. Took it round to a nearby proper old fix it garage and they got it off in seconds. Instead of hitting the end or pulling from the top the mechanic took two hammers and simultaneously hit opposite sides of the arm the taper was fitted through, the shock released the taper and it could be gently pulled out. I've also dealt with stuck things like brake drums with repeated rapid tapping with a metal hammer so the whole thing starts to 'ring', the vibration in the steel frees off any surface corrosion. Do you have room to try similar less obvious percussive techniques?

 

[Fergie 307]

I have often found with conventional pullers that getting them really tight and then giving the driving screw a sharp thump does the trick, so percussive assistance with pressure applied!

 

[Fergie 307]

Pilkington at the image could you attach a slide hammer to the threads on your outer clamp, then with tension on, use that to give it some encouragement?

 

[Fergie 307]

How on earth does my auto correct get Pilkington from Looking ??

 

[John Hall]

Is it possible that the tapers are rusted together?
It may help to firstly hit the flange as though to tighten it to loosen the grip, then hit the flange on both sides to release it. I also think a heavy duty slide hammer attached to the flange is the answer.

 

[sawtooth-9]

I can’t help but think, even if you get it apart by whatever means the taper surface is likely ruined anyway, so machining it out if you can’t get another seems the best option.

If you can release it, the taper will probably still be good - unless you try to twist it out ( which is unlikely to work ), even then a touch with a morse reamer would fix that.

Pilkington at the image could you attach a slide hammer to the threads on your outer clamp, then with tension on, use that to give it some encouragement?

A slide hammer will not give sufficient shock.

 

[sawtooth-9]

I remember when we tried to get the flywheel off a large plastics granulator.
My factory fitter was belting the cr..p out of the shaft against the pull of an 8 ton hydraulic puller. It would not budge.
I suggested he belted in the direction of the pull and "bingo" - first hit, and it released.
As you are dealing with an arbour, you could cross drill the max. dia. across the male end ( probably around 10 mm ) and use a short high tensile bolt across the hole.
Then use ( or borrow ) an hydraulic puller . Crank it up and belt the cra.p out of it from the puller end. Even if it is rusted together, it will release