Sorry for radio silence on the rebuild, I have used the lathe briefly a few times, the flat belt slips a bit, especially on the highest speed, and the inside of the belt has got very dirty so I think I need to clean and polish up the pulleys a bit.
The bit of car filler I put in the gap has fallen out, I would like to get it welded up but I would have to persuade someone to come here with a pretty heavy duty welder so I might leave that for now. Anyone with a big welder near Stevenage/Letchworth fancy giving it a go once lockdown is lifted? Its about 1/2" thick cast iron. I have a 16amp wall socket.
I have put safety interlock switches on the door and the lid, and added a foot pedal emergency stop. Lid now has hinges and a locking clasp.
The top cover front is a thin casting, and has a split in it, still debating what to do about that but at least it can be removed for welding. The front and back of the belt cover could have been made with metal spinning, why did they go with thin castings when making a metal spinning lathe?!
On the lookout for a belt cover from a large pillar drill or similar to cover the v belts at the back, or buy some rectangular ducting with two 45 degree bends, but for now its fairly safely tucked away while I am using it.
I attached the tool holder from my metal lathe to a threaded toolpost, and reduced the length of the headstock thread. I then threaded the Versachuck backplate 4 1/2" TPI, which took forever, its a deep thread! about 15 thou runout on the body of the chuck, which is ok but not great but the overhang is massively improved without the adapter. The headstock thread has no register, which makes it difficult to align well. There is enough meat after the thread to turn a register in the future if I want to increase the accuracy. I could also reduce it to an M33x3.5 but that would involve removing the spindle and taking to to someone with a big enough metal lathe.
The lathe is screwed to the chipboard riser blocks with woodscrews, and not mounted to the floor. I have found even though its 700kg in total it still rocks about with out of balance bowl blanks, so I will bite the bullet soon and drill 4 holes in the floor for anchor bolts.
Some old kitchen worktop was trimmed to fit behind the lathe, as I find I always drop things behind the lathe bed and have to crawl under to find it.
I also sorted the tailstock barrel clamp, but I am after a threaded lever instead of using a spanner. I also want to fit a lever to the tailstock-bed clamp. The two plates I have under the tailstock and banjo are free to rotate when loose, and this makes it difficult to quickly tighten and release, so I will see about making some pieces of steel with edge cutouts, to prevent rotation, basically a very wide inverted T nut, and coil springs on the bolt to push the T nut away from the bed when loosened.
The tailstock takes some real heaving with both hands to move it along the bed, I am wondering whether to try sanding the bed and/or the contact surfaces of the tailstock to improve this, it weighs 55kg so always going to be a bit difficult to move. I notice big metal lathes often have an overhanging bracket so you can use the gear rack to move the tailstock.
Still not found any more information about Hazdent Machine Tools, not even one example of this machine, or any others. I will keep looking from time to time but I can only guess they were not around for long which is a shame as it appears to be a solidly built machine. No part numbers/names on any of the parts other than the door has the name cast in, perhaps Hazdent was a rebrand of a more common manufacturer. It certainly takes inspiration from the Taylor spinning lathes, but is different enough that I do not think its a Taylor lathe originally.
The restoration is pretty much as finished as it ever will be, so I probably won't post about it as a restoration any more, but please contact me with any info on Hazdent Machine Tools, or if you have any big root balls or other bits of timber for me to work with.