Harrison L5 3HP Lathe
- Thread starter Slooby
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In between the low and high of plonkerdom I did find the time last weekend to go take a look in two of my auxiliary storage devices for missing Lathe parts, sadly the search yielded nothing. I couldn't access storage device 3 as I had stacked Land Rover number 3 chassis and rather a lot of Dexion pallet racking behind it blocking the door. I fear though that I do not have any more bits, despite being convinced that I had a slection of fibre change wheels.
On the subject of change wheels I did some tooth counting on the two piece unit the samller diameter unit has 100 teeth, the larger 120. I have a feeling they may not be Harrison, and possible Boxford. My Norton Gearbox is also an Imperial 36 speed, not Metric by the looks of it, so I'm not entirely sure if my loose pairing are compatible anyway
On the subject of change wheels I did some tooth counting on the two piece unit the samller diameter unit has 100 teeth, the larger 120. I have a feeling they may not be Harrison, and possible Boxford. My Norton Gearbox is also an Imperial 36 speed, not Metric by the looks of it, so I'm not entirely sure if my loose pairing are compatible anyway
That sounds rightish for an imperial Norton box.
My old L5 with the abc gearbox had a load of changewheels with it, the replacement L5A in imperial with Norton box had almost no additional wheels. The larger wheel was I think 100, a couple of smaller wheels like maybe 40 and 50. Certainly no 127T wheel that you need to make the imperial lathes cut metric threads.
My old L5 with the abc gearbox had a load of changewheels with it, the replacement L5A in imperial with Norton box had almost no additional wheels. The larger wheel was I think 100, a couple of smaller wheels like maybe 40 and 50. Certainly no 127T wheel that you need to make the imperial lathes cut metric threads.
U_engraving I think is the e bay seller who custom makes change wheels in delrin. Good quality and not expensive.
Imperial gearbox two chrome knobs, metric has three.
With you there, looks good but I wouldn't have the foggiest. Certainly looking forward to seeing how you get on with it.
Many conversations currently on going; current thinking is to buy some magnetic linear encoders (because they are easy to customise and are compact) from Ali-Express, then build my own (with a lot of guidance) DRO using an old Amazon Fire Tablet I have and a freeware package from: https://www.touchdro.com/
The Touch DRO package has a tacho feature so I'm going to need to drive that, was thinking of finding a 36 -1 timing wheel and hall effect sensor, like you find on a car running after market managment, so I can get a fairly precise index of the chuck shaft speed.
The Touch DRO package has a tacho feature so I'm going to need to drive that, was thinking of finding a 36 -1 timing wheel and hall effect sensor, like you find on a car running after market managment, so I can get a fairly precise index of the chuck shaft speed.
Maybe an ABS ring and sensor? Relatively cheap, compact and robust.
3 Magnetic Linear encoders with cables and connectors plus 2m of magnetic scale strip ordered from Ali-express.
I've also picked up 20m of 2.5mm2 5 core SY Armoured Cable for the 3Ph power and 100m of 8 core alarm cable from TLC for comms work
I've also picked up 20m of 2.5mm2 5 core SY Armoured Cable for the 3Ph power and 100m of 8 core alarm cable from TLC for comms work
Let the fun commence 
Now, something I could do with some help in understanding relates to the change wheels for thread cutting.
I've labled up this pic with what I beleive are the 'shafts' and what wheels they are currently fitted with on my machine:
If I'm correct this is the standard configuration for a Norton 36 Speed Gearbox running with the 4 TPI Lead Screw. Combinations of these wheels give me all the Imperial thread cutting options.
Now, to go metric I am going to need 40 and 60 tooth intermediate shaft wheels and a 127 tooth wheel for the bottom, correct?
My current intermediate shaft wheel is fibre by the looks of it too
I've labled up this pic with what I beleive are the 'shafts' and what wheels they are currently fitted with on my machine:
If I'm correct this is the standard configuration for a Norton 36 Speed Gearbox running with the 4 TPI Lead Screw. Combinations of these wheels give me all the Imperial thread cutting options.
Now, to go metric I am going to need 40 and 60 tooth intermediate shaft wheels and a 127 tooth wheel for the bottom, correct?
My current intermediate shaft wheel is fibre by the looks of it too
I think yes.
The topmost cog only just clears the back end of the spindle tube so that looks right.
The size of the intermediate doesn't actually matter, just what physically fits since it's a single cog.
100 on the bottom.
I found all metal gears noisy so put a 60T delrin in the middle of the imperial config above.
I bought the 40 and 127T wheels you describe to get metric. They fit. You need a spacer to stand one of the top or bottom wheels off as you have two stacked wheels in the middle to perform a 2:1 speed reduction, but I realised that all delrin on the middle would be better to quieten it down.
The topmost cog only just clears the back end of the spindle tube so that looks right.
The size of the intermediate doesn't actually matter, just what physically fits since it's a single cog.
100 on the bottom.
I found all metal gears noisy so put a 60T delrin in the middle of the imperial config above.
I bought the 40 and 127T wheels you describe to get metric. They fit. You need a spacer to stand one of the top or bottom wheels off as you have two stacked wheels in the middle to perform a 2:1 speed reduction, but I realised that all delrin on the middle would be better to quieten it down.
Here's the metric set first time I installed them.
The clearances will be off so not all the noise will be due to metal on metal.
The clearances will be off so not all the noise will be due to metal on metal.
So in your second video there was another wheel behind the one on the intermediate shaft engaging with the top shaft?
I can see why the intermediate shaft wheel on my machine is fibre now.
For the 127 tooth wheel Delrin is the most readily available option, but you aren't meant to run Delrin on Delrin, and metal on metal equals noise. Hum.
I also need to find my photos of the Lathe when I picked it up because having seen that long sleev on your top shaft for the collet feed I can see another bit I don't currently have, which is a worry
I can see why the intermediate shaft wheel on my machine is fibre now.
For the 127 tooth wheel Delrin is the most readily available option, but you aren't meant to run Delrin on Delrin, and metal on metal equals noise. Hum.
I also need to find my photos of the Lathe when I picked it up because having seen that long sleev on your top shaft for the collet feed I can see another bit I don't currently have, which is a worry
