Handsaws

[sxlalan]

Hi

Does anyone have any experience of the Roberts & Lee Dorchester/Parkstone or Thomas Flinn Pax/Lynx handsaws? I am looking for a tennon and dovetail saw and these seem to be in the right price range.

Cheers

Alan

 

[edmund]

I have a Pax Gents saw which I don't like.

On Roberts and Lee dovetail saw there's a paragraph in this article for your info http://www.finefurnituremaker.com/published_articles/gw_tools_part3.htm

I use Adria dovetail and tenon saws (more expensive) but I think they are great.

You could always consider the Japanese saws as an option.

 

[Alf]

Alan, I'll move this over the Hand Tools where the assembled neanders can spend three times the money telling you about all the saws you really need. :wink:

Cheers, Alf

 

[trevtheturner]

They will probably all be good, i.e. cur well, from new, Alan. Thereafter, it depends on how sharp you can keep them.

So I would suggest that you look for ones that sit comfortably in your hand and feel right, although I am sure there will be some experts along soon to give you better advice.

Cheers,

Trev.

 

[MikeW]

Hi Alan,

Below are two tenon saws. The one I use most is the bottom, a '50/'60s era Disston.

The Disston I picked up for less than $5 US. I lightly stoned the sides of the teeth to reduce the set, which also has the effect of a slightly sharpening it. Works wonderfully.

The upper saw is a new one, which also works well, just for larger work. I also have a LN saw--something I probably wouldn't buy again, though it is itself a great saw. I just don't think, especially with hand saws, the money needs to be spent.

Mike

 

[Anonymous]

I have the Pax rip, crosscut, and gent's saws. I'm very pleased.

I use hand tools exclusively in my woodworking. I recently sold my L-N dovetail saw because I actually preferred the little Pax gent's saw. I like a crosscut filed dovetail saw and that *somewhat* runs against conventional wisdom. They are easier to start. The gent's saw has a higher tooth count and leaves a smoother cut. While cutting dovetails is technically a ripping operation, it is obviously a very short rip and speed doesn't really matter as far as I'm concerned. One spends a large amount of time preparing the stock and laying out the joint. Seems silly to me to get in a hurry when making the half inch to seven eighths "rip" cuts (barely qualify as rips to me).

I think Ian Kirby likes a crosscut filed saw, there are others too. If you go this route you won't be in bad company.

I have nothing against L-N - I own several of their hand planes.

 

[Alf]

Now Mike, we know you can make a great saw handle; what's keeping you? :wink:

Rather than repeat myself* I'll rely on the archive to do it for me here and here And probably elsewhere as well , but you probably get the gist of what I think from those two. Sharpening and the handle style are pretty much all that seperates saws in any meaningful way, and both are well within the control of the owner of the saw. What you choose to pay up front merely alters how soon you have to find a means to sharpen it. As for handles; well we're woodworkers aren't we? :wink:

Cheers, Alf

* I know, I know. Why stop now? :roll:

 

[MikeW]

Hah, I just saw this (no pun intended. Well, a little one).

What, you don't like my saw's handles? Look a bit, uh, uncomfortable and plain ugly?

They do cut very well. Straight, just enough kerf to track well but allow a quick cut. At least with the Garlick & Sons with the Walnut handle I had intended to reshape it and get rid of that ugly coating of glop on it. The Disston is, well it could be reshaped, but is really poorly made. The kerf for the blade as you can see in the picture is cut really far in. The BS operator must have been daydreaming.

But when I really want to cut accurate tenons, I cheat:

Stanley 358 w/ original Atkins saw (should I mention I picked this up a few years ago at a garage sale for...$15?).

The handle on this one (and the Disston behind it) are a bit more comfy (though I see it is out of frame). I showed a neighbor how to cut some tenons tonight for some posts for a fence he's building. Made quick accurate work of it. Showed him how to use it on the first one, left it with him wondering if I would have a saw to straighten out when it came back, but all is well.

But your evil plan worked, Alf. I'll reshape the Garlick. The other, well...

 

[Alf]

Stanley 358 w/ original Atkins saw (should I mention I picked this up a few years ago at a garage sale for...$15?).

I'd much rather you didn't. :mrgreen:

The handle on this one (and the Disston behind it) are a bit more comfy (though I see it is out of frame).

Now Philly would never have let something stray out of frame so carelessly... [-X ]

But your evil plan worked, Alf. I'll reshape the Garlick. The other, well...

Mwahahahahahaahahaaaaaa. Any chance of WIP pics? [-o<

Cheers, Alf

 

[MikeW]

Stanley 358 w/ original Atkins saw (should I mention I picked this up a few years ago at a garage sale for...$15?).

I'd much rather you didn't. :mrgreen:

Ok. I won't.

But your evil plan worked, Alf. I'll reshape the Garlick. The other, well...

Mwahahahahahaahahaaaaaa. Any chance of WIP pics? [-o<
Cheers, Alf

In a word, no. What ya think, I stay up all night or something?

Both together, and then a close-up, warts and all. Got tired of working, so the saw was staring at me, so...should have taken a wee bit more time. Especially since the crushed fibers from the embossing went deeper than the cheesy gold paint.

 

[Alf]

What ya think, I stay up all night or something?

Er, yes?

Both together, and then a close-up, warts and all...

Ahhhhhhhh, that's better. =D>

Cheers, Alf

 

[MikeW]

Yeah, I know. But it worked OK as it was . And I am lazy at heart.

Well, I think I'll go lock up the shop and work on the sleep thing.