Getting plans copied accurately

[mikesp]

Can anyone provide advice on where to get accurate copying done for plans. I took my clock plans to Staples and was assured that their copier would be completely accurate. However the prints were 1-1.5mm out when overlaid. Is there somewhere that could get 100% accuracy. Clocks can be fickle I hear without a dodgy plan to work to as well. I'm near Weston Super Mare by the way.

Thanks in advance

 

[sunnybob]

Go to a dedicated copy shop. Staples is only set up for business copying.
I just had a plan enlarged, and even the proper copy shop didnt get it right first time, but they will keep going untill you get what you want.

 

[mikefab]

My local Jewson has a plan copying service although I haven't tried it.

 

[Jacob]

Most copiers are not that precise but the general assumption is that it shouldn't matter as you are not expected to scale (accurately) from the drawing but should refer to dimensions.

 

[sunnybob]

Is this plans to make the clock mechanism? or the clock case?
The wooden case is not a problem.
But if you are making the metal parts, your plans are for reference. 1mm is barely thicker than the line drawn. You cant expect blueprint accuracy from a drawn plan

 

[Myfordman]

See if you can find a print shop still supporting the dyeline process. Here light is shone through the original onto sensitive paper which is then developed with ammonia. it makes a contact print
The resulting prints cannot be anything other than to the exact size of the original.

 

[Jacob]

See if you can find a print shop still supporting the dyeline process. Here light is shone through the original onto sensitive paper which is then developed with ammonia. it makes a contact print
The resulting prints cannot be anything other than to the exact size of the original.

Not unless they've improved it a lot since are worra lad. It used to be very imprecise.

 

[Harbo]

Draw a scale or an accurate square grid on the original, go to the copy shop armed with a scale, then check the copied drawing for accuracy.
They can adjust the "scale factor" in the shop.

But before you start, tell the shop you want 100% accuracy or they will charge for all the copies.

Rod

 

[bugbear]

Can anyone provide advice on where to get accurate copying done for plans. I took my clock plans to Staples and was assured that their copier would be completely accurate. However the prints were 1-1.5mm out when overlaid. Is there somewhere that could get 100% accuracy. Clocks can be fickle I hear without a dodgy plan to work to as well. I'm near Weston Super Mare by the way.

Thanks in advance

How was your original plan made? Where was it from?

BugBear

 

[custard]

My local Jewson has a plan copying service although I haven't tried it.

That's useful to know. Thanks!

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Most copiers are not that precise but the general assumption is that it shouldn't matter as you are not expected to scale (accurately) from the drawing but should refer to dimensions.

I will probably be thrown off the forum for saying this, but - Jacob is absolutely right. Every drawing that left the drawing office I worked in had a range of notes, but number 1, in big letters, was always, "If in doubt ask. Do not scale." The reason is that copiers are never quite 100% accurate, even the big, fancy expensive ones, and paper can shrink and swell a bit too.

If you want something really accurate, work to the stated dimensions, reading them from the drawing and marking them out directly on the workpiece, scaling from a good quality steel rule or similar. That, or draw it out yourself on something that won't shrink or swell during the duration of the project. Draughting film might be good option - nice to draw on in pencil, but not cheap.

If dimensions are at all critical DON'T mark out directly from the drawing.

Note - where there's a chance to fit parts to each other, and final dimensions are not absolutely critical, you can 'get away with it'. Just apply common sense to the above points.

By the way - woodworkers' rods marked out on wood tend to work because the critical dimensions are on the long grain, the movement of which is minor compared to cross-grain. MDF would probably be OK long and cross.

 

[Jacob]

....
By the way - woodworkers' rods marked out on wood tend to work because the critical dimensions are on the long grain, the movement of which is minor compared to cross-grain. MDF would probably be OK long and cross.

Melamine faced chipboard is perfect for rods.
If accuracy is required the only drawings you should scale from directly are full sized rods, or the many variations of this as used by other industries. It's the final definitive working drawing in the chain.
PS though "scale" is the wrong word - it's more "taking off marks" as no measurements are needed or used at the rod stage.

 

[bugbear]

If you want something really accurate, work to the stated dimensions, reading them from the drawing and marking them out directly on the workpiece, scaling from a good quality steel rule or similar. That, or draw it out yourself on something that won't shrink or swell during the duration of the project. Draughting film might be good option - nice to draw on in pencil, but not cheap.

If dimensions are at all critical DON'T mark out directly from the drawing.

Note - where there's a chance to fit parts to each other, and final dimensions are not absolutely critical, you can 'get away with it'. Just apply common sense to the above points.

If the plan is in multiple parts (like building a Spitfire!!) this is absolutely correct.

But if all the parts are on 1 sheet, is the sheet shrinks 1%, the plan still "works", and all the parts still fit.

You just get a wardobe that's 1% smaller; not a real problem.

Either that, or just treat the drawing as a sketch, not to be trusted, and work to the stated measurements, as you say. The back of the envelope strike back!

BugBear

 

[Harbo]

You don't use rods when making clocks!
I'm assuming the OP is going to stick the plans on sheets of ply to cut out?
The crucial part will be the correct diameter of the gear wheels and therefore the teeth.
In proper clockmaking you don't have this problem as lines are marked out on the brass and gears cut with special cutters.

Rod