garden shed - buy, build or butcher?

[miles_hot]

I have a space which is c. 4' at one end and about 6-8' away is much closer to 6'. I want to put a shed in here and it seems to me that I have three choices:

1) buy a 4x8' shed - simple
2) make a shed which fits the space
3) butcher a 6x8' shed to fit.

The type of shed which I'm thinking of is not the apex sort with a ridge pole but the more lean-to type with a simple sloping roof.

The questions which are most pressing:

1) what's involved in building a shed from scratch (I'm technically a numpty)
2) is butchering a larger shed down to size even feasible?

Thanks!

Miles

 

[devonwoody]

If you are a DIY man the answer is simple. Also adds to the woodworking pleasure and experience, but costs do come into it.

 

[PowerTool]

I'd go for option 2 - from everything I've read,it won't be any cheaper than buying one,but will be better built (I built mine from brick,so can't compare costs) and more useable.
For something that size,you need a decent,level,solid base - then just build a frame from studwork timber,clad it and put a roof on (sounds easy if you say it quick.. :wink: )

There are plenty of "workshop build" threads on the forum that have lots of useful information and pictures to help.


Andrew

 

[MikeG.]

Miles,

if I am interpreting your post correctly, I think you are after a tapering shed? If so, beware!!!

With a monopitch roof with horizontal ridge and a tapering plan shape, the eaves wall of the shed won't be horizontal at the top! This could actually be very awkward to get right, as you will have no easy setting-out reference points.......you wont just be building a wall then sitting the roof on top!

However, it is of course "do-able". How about posting a photo of the space, or a drawing? You'll get some pragmatic suggestions then, I'm sure......

Mike

 

[StevieB]

Can you buy off the shelf 4'x8' sheds? Looking recently standard sizes seemed to be 4'x6', 5'x7' and 6'x8'. My answer would depend on another question - what do you want to use it for? If its to store the lawnmower and garden fork etc then buy one. Building costs more (although quality is better) but do you need a fully lined, insulated, withstand hurricane Gustav type structure to store the lawnmower? If however you are going to do something in it like woodwork, or a hobby then the extra effort, expense and quality may be worth it. I would be reluctant to cannibalise a larger shed. They are fairly flimsy quality to begin with and often put together with ring shank nails which can be a real pain to get out (DAMHIKT). You risk doing so much damage in canabalising that new timber will be required and you may as well have made one in the first place.

Steve.

 

[Tiggy Liggy]

I agree with devonwoody about buidling it yourself.I wish I could build my own but Im not clever enugh

 

[Shultzy]

I wish I could build my own but I'm not clever enough

I disagree with your comment above. You are clever enough, you either don't have the confidence, or lack the knowledge. Knowledge is available in lorry-loads on this forum, confidence comes from practice. Check out the shed builds on the forum, most of them have no joints and are either screwed or nailed together.

 

[dennis]

Miles

What are the boundary,s of the space, are any of them walls that could be incorporated in the shed.

Dennis

 

[miles_hot]

Miles

What are the boundary,s of the space, are any of them walls that could be incorporated in the shed.

Dennis

Dennis

Yes there is a wall however it is a boundary wall that doesn't belong to me and so can't really be bonded to the shed. I could possibly attach the sides to it using brackets however I can't see how the roof would attach or I could seal to it.

(assuming this was what you're thinking of!)

Miles

 

[miles_hot]

Can you buy off the shelf 4'x8' sheds? Looking recently standard sizes seemed to be 4'x6', 5'x7' and 6'x8'. My answer would depend on another question - what do you want to use it for? If its to store the lawnmower and garden fork etc then buy one. Building costs more (although quality is better) but do you need a fully lined, insulated, withstand hurricane Gustav type structure to store the lawnmower? If however you are going to do something in it like woodwork, or a hobby then the extra effort, expense and quality may be worth it. I would be reluctant to cannibalise a larger shed. They are fairly flimsy quality to begin with and often put together with ring shank nails which can be a real pain to get out (DAMHIKT). You risk doing so much damage in canabalising that new timber will be required and you may as well have made one in the first place.

Steve.

I can get the sheds made to measure (http://www.minetyuk.com/contactus.html) however I don't think that they'll do a tapered shed (maybe a word of warning here?). The shed will be used to
1) store all the garden stuff which is currently taking up space in the garage and hence distracting my designs for that space to be more about wood than storage
2) possibly potter about in doing seedlings on the shelf in front of the window assuming I can be bothered to spend time trying to make things grow!
In terms of the butchering of a larger shed I had thought that it could be a case of laying a baton across the timber at the desired point and then routing along it using a bearing bit to cut to the desired length however it has just occurred to me that I'd need to buy a longer shed as the slanted side would need to be longer than the vanilla side - I'd need to butcher three sides as well as the roof and floor.... hum.
Miles

 

[miles_hot]

Miles,

if I am interpreting your post correctly, I think you are after a tapering shed? If so, beware!!!

With a monopitch roof with horizontal ridge and a tapering plan shape, the eaves wall of the shed won't be horizontal at the top! This could actually be very awkward to get right, as you will have no easy setting-out reference points.......you wont just be building a wall then sitting the roof on top!

However, it is of course "do-able". How about posting a photo of the space, or a drawing? You'll get some pragmatic suggestions then, I'm sure......

Mike

I had thought that "all" id need to do would be to
a) measure the height of the 6' wall at 4'
b) cut down wall which will be 4' to this height and to a 4' length
c) lay a baton along the tapering wall from the full height at one end and the 4' height at the other end - pin/screw baton to wall timbers
d) route along that baton to trim the wall down
e) take measures for the roof and repeat c) and d)

Now you've got me worried there's more to it though

Miles

 

[miles_hot]

If you are a DIY man the answer is simple. Also adds to the woodworking pleasure and experience, but costs do come into it.

I have to say that's a very "political" answer - it gives the construct of an answer without actually committing to an option!

Miles

 

[devonwoody]

the ex salesman in me, would like to have been a cabinet m... tho.

 

[MikeG.]

Miles,

sorry, I'm afraid I can't follow your reply to my earlier post.....so.....is its proposed form "A" or "B" in principal?

Mike

 

[miles_hot]

Miles,

sorry, I'm afraid I can't follow your reply to my earlier post.....so.....is its proposed form "A" or "B" in principal?

Mike

A.

 

[OLD]

From Mike Garnham sketch you have the design get your measurements from site, draw it to scale and go and construct it a walk round a garden centre will give you construction details. If you can not do this buy/have made a shed that fits the site

 

[MikeG.]

Miles,

the simplest way to construct a shed in the form "A" is to build the two gable walls first.

Make the biggest one (ie the one nearest in my diagram) first, and then the smaller one which must be exactly the same but with the front "cut off". Use the bigger as a pattern for the smaller.

You then make a rectangular rear panel.

Rather than work it all out on paper first, I would then locate the 3 walls you have built onto your base (ideally, on a brick plinth 6" high, with a damp course), all at right angles., and brace it in position. Then you can simply measure the gap to fill to make the front wall, or build it in situ. The roof then just sits on top of the whole thing, and if you have got everything right, should be "flat".....(co-planar).

If this is for a workshop, chunky timbers and insulation........if it is just for garden tools etc then you could even use 2x1s for the frame.

Hope this helps

Mike

 

[miles_hot]

Miles,

the simplest way to construct a shed in the form "A" is to build the two gable walls first.

Make the biggest one (ie the one nearest in my diagram) first, and then the smaller one which must be exactly the same but with the front "cut off". Use the bigger as a pattern for the smaller.

You then make a rectangular rear panel.

Rather than work it all out on paper first, I would then locate the 3 walls you have built onto your base (ideally, on a brick plinth 6" high, with a damp course), all at right angles., and brace it in position. Then you can simply measure the gap to fill to make the front wall, or build it in situ. The roof then just sits on top of the whole thing, and if you have got everything right, should be "flat".....(co-planar).

If this is for a workshop, chunky timbers and insulation........if it is just for garden tools etc then you could even use 2x1s for the frame.

Hope this helps

Mike

That's pretty similar to my original thinking - great at least that means I'm not a million miles off. In terms of the corner posts for the front walls do you think that I need to angle them (the rear will be at 90 deg)?

The brick plinth is an interesting idea, I can see how to attach the walls but the floors more of a challenge (plan A was to plonk the shed onto a decking style frame). It could help with the slope which the site has...

Are there any good places to get the pressure treated timber and what should I look for in this space?

Thanks

Miles

 

[Shultzy]

Miles, do you use sketchup, if so send me the dimensions and I will draw it for you.