Garden fence replacement....

[Victorthesecond]

Hello everyone. Excuse me if I have this in the wrong section of the forum......and thanks in advance for any replies!

Our garden is surrounded, as many are, by "standard" fence panels consisting of thin, overlapping wood. They slot into concrete fence posts. So far, so good....One of the panels is overdue for replacement but I have two problems......1) It's overhung by a large conifer with many thick branches, all of which means it would be impossible to "slot" a new, 6', panel in. Getting the old one out will be easy - it will just break apart! 2) My neighbour on that side is, let's say, not one that will contribute towards any cost of replacement (to be fair, these are "our" fences) and is, generally, a bit of a misery. The panel I need to replace is largely hidden by shrubbery at "our" side.

I'm thinking that I could replace this panel by simply slotting deck boards (horizontally) into the space. If that looks good, I'm happy to do the other panels in the same way. But, before I do, I just wondered if any of you had done the same type of fence replacement and, if so:

- Did you "space" the horizontally placed deck boards (eg with thin bits of wood at each edge, placed into the slot in the concrete post, or simply let them rest on each other?
- Do you think that deck boards are a decent solution or am I better sourcing some thicker timber (the slots are 45mm wide, and the deck boards I've seen (just by looking at B&Q) are between 20mm and 27mm thick?
- I could get the thinnnest ones but then buy timber to make a batten - my idea was to screw a vertical batten to the bottom board at both sides, slot that in, slide the remaining boards into place, then raise the whole thing so I can secure the top board to the batten, then drop it back into place, thus making the whole thing a little more sturdy.

Ideally, the new fence will last longer than the flimsy thing that is there now (and needs staining every year, yuk) and will be simple to replace as, hopefully, it will simply be a case of sliding any rotten boards out and putting new ones in.

Given that "the space" is 1830mm and the boards I've looked at are either 1800 or 2400, I accept there will be a lot of waste as I will need16 (95mm boards) for this panel (and any others I do). But, who can't use more garden planters!!!

All ideas welcome, thanks in advance!

Take care

Mike

 

[dizjasta]

B&Q stock 3 ft. high fence panels which could be easier to slot in under the tree area.

 

[Victorthesecond]

B&Q stock 3 ft. high fence panels which could be easier to slot in under the tree area.

Thank you. Tbh, I'm not even sure I could get those in, there are so many thick branches overhanging. We've trimmed what we on our side and that's helped but it's still going to be tricky. Like I say, we're not being helped by our neighbours

 

[Tris]

If the posts are in good condition I would measure the gap very carefully and compare a few fence panels as it is often possible to 'pop' a panel in with careful bending. Bending can be made easier by removing the top and bottom rail on one side only.

Second option is feather edge board and roofing batten. Cut the batten to form a frame like a typical fence panel which can ce assembled between the posts, then slide the feather edge in from the top and tack in place

 

[dizjasta]

 

[okeydokey]

From what you say its impossible to lower a 6 foot panel down into the post slots from either side due to overbranches.
I have tried by taking out the horizontal rails on a fence panel to sort of bend it into position and then refit the horizontals it can be done but needs cooperation from both sides and is a sort of 2 man job to wiggle them in and refix the horizontals. Also needs access to be able to screw together which the branches might not allow.
Have you thought of just sliding a new panel in sideways not fixing in the post slots and putting a couple of screws here and there to hold the new to the old - if you have some shrubbery on your side then you wont notice the panel slightly out of place. Let us know how you get on.

 

[ChaiLatte]

...to sort of bend it into position...

Tie two ratchet straps around it and tighten them a little. Then at the midpoint of the panel, push in some 6-8" long timbers and pin the ratchet strap to them. Tighten the ratchet straps further and the panel will bend. It is a six foot square longbow.

---

To the OP: if you do go the composite route and want the same material in a thinner cross section (maybe to pack the 25mm boards so as not to rattle in the 45mm gap in the post), have a look at composite decking tiles.

You could make the deck boards like louvres by tilting them in the gap and cutting triangular pieces to keep them in place.

You could rip some of the offcuts down to 20 mm wide strips and screw to the face of each horizontal board so the horizontals do not rattle.

Roofing battens are the wrong thing to use as horizontal timbers in a build-in-place closeboard fence. Find a proper fencing supplier and they will have the correct size timber, pressure treated to the same standard as the feather edge board.

 

[Bingy man]

You can simply and easily use 3x2 timber and feather edge boards.3- 6ft lengths of 3x2 spaced appropriately then simply nail your feather edge boards until the span is complete-you might need to rip the last board but it’s easy enough. Imo I’d replace any other damaged panels with the same feather edge panels as they are a lot stronger and last years if treated once a year . If you want them to last longer then use wedges to stop them rattling in the wind .

 

[ChaiLatte]

3- 6ft lengths of 3x2 spaced appropriately

If you look at pre-made feather edge panels, they all use _four_ horizontal timbers. When you use arris rails, you use three, but panels that fit between concrete posts use four.

 

[HOJ]

As @Bingy man says, but buy some Arris rails, cut 3 rails to the width of the rebate (probably buy them already cut to length) in between the posts, drop them in, use some timber gauging pieces to set them at the right height, bottom, middle, top, and nail the feather edge boards to them.

 

[Bingy man]

If you look at pre-made feather edge panels, they all use _four_ horizontal timbers. When you use arris rails, you use three, but panels that fit between concrete posts use four.

With 3x2 it’s stronger than the pre-made panels so I’ve only ever used 3 horizontal bearers- but I get your point . You can now get fully framed feather edge panels with the ends of the panels framed in which are a little stronger. It’s not easy wrestling with a 6 ft panel above your head especially with overhanging branches hence my suggestion to frame it with 3x2 then close board it . It’s also a one man job.

 

[Qwercus]

With 3x2 it’s stronger than the pre-made panels so I’ve only ever used 3 horizontal bearers- but I get your point . You can now get fully framed feather edge panels with the ends of the panels framed in which are a little stronger. It’s not easy wrestling with a 6 ft panel above your head especially with overhanging branches hence my suggestion to frame it with 3x2 then close board it . It’s also a one man job.

Hello everyone. Excuse me if I have this in the wrong section of the forum......and thanks in advance for any replies!

Our garden is surrounded, as many are, by "standard" fence panels consisting of thin, overlapping wood. They slot into concrete fence posts. So far, so good....One of the panels is overdue for replacement but I have two problems......1) It's overhung by a large conifer with many thick branches, all of which means it would be impossible to "slot" a new, 6', panel in. Getting the old one out will be easy - it will just break apart! 2) My neighbour on that side is, let's say, not one that will contribute towards any cost of replacement (to be fair, these are "our" fences) and is, generally, a bit of a misery. The panel I need to replace is largely hidden by shrubbery at "our" side.

I'm thinking that I could replace this panel by simply slotting deck boards (horizontally) into the space. If that looks good, I'm happy to do the other panels in the same way. But, before I do, I just wondered if any of you had done the same type of fence replacement and, if so:

- Did you "space" the horizontally placed deck boards (eg with thin bits of wood at each edge, placed into the slot in the concrete post, or simply let them rest on each other?
- Do you think that deck boards are a decent solution or am I better sourcing some thicker timber (the slots are 45mm wide, and the deck boards I've seen (just by looking at B&Q) are between 20mm and 27mm thick?
- I could get the thinnnest ones but then buy timber to make a batten - my idea was to screw a vertical batten to the bottom board at both sides, slot that in, slide the remaining boards into place, then raise the whole thing so I can secure the top board to the batten, then drop it back into place, thus making the whole thing a little more sturdy.

Ideally, the new fence will last longer than the flimsy thing that is there now (and needs staining every year, yuk) and will be simple to replace as, hopefully, it will simply be a case of sliding any rotten boards out and putting new ones in.

Given that "the space" is 1830mm and the boards I've looked at are either 1800 or 2400, I accept there will be a lot of waste as I will need16 (95mm boards) for this panel (and any others I do). But, who can't use more garden planters!!!

All ideas welcome, thanks in advance!

Take care

Mike

Instead of decking boards you could use scaffolding planks, cut to length as you describe. Not pretty, but you'd need fewer and they'd last a lifetime.

 

[MikeJhn]

Concrete gravel boards slotted in one on top of the other, paint them any colour you want.

 

[ChaiLatte]

...you could use scaffolding planks...

When you say that would 'last a lifetime', it might be good to specify what or whose lifetime. Scaffold boards do not use treated timber so the lifetime is more at the mayfly level than the giant sequoia.

You can buy proper pressure treated timber in scaffold sizes:

https://www.scaffolding-direct.co.uk/tanalised-gardening-allotment-boards/

Composite scaffold boards are available, but it would be wise to be sure of their UV resistance before purchase. Unlike composite decking, which is designed to be outdoors indefinitely, a scaffold board has a commercial lifespan and would be manufactured with this in mind.

 

[Jacob]

If the tree is yours you can chop it down. If it is next door's you are entitled to remove it too but I'm not sure if you can only remove the overhang, which can be impractical. I've got the same problem and would like to know my rights on this, before I go and have a chat with next door

https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/h...ee-with-your-neighbour-about-a-tree-or-hedge/

 

[Adam W.]

@Victorthesecond

I've used decking boards to make removable fence panels, it works well and they are easy to fit and replace. Mine just slot in and I've never levelled them or put any spacers in. The reason I did it this way is because I remove them periodically to get a timber delivery into the garden....thusly.

It's not pretty, but it stops people gawking when I'm doing a spot of recreational nuddy chainsawing in the sun.

 

[Bingy man]

If the tree is yours you can chop it down. If it is next door's you are entitled to remove it too but I'm not sure if you can only remove the overhang, which can be impractical. I've got the same problem and would like to know my rights on this, before I go and have a chat with next door

https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/h...ee-with-your-neighbour-about-a-tree-or-hedge/

You can’t remove the tree if it’s not in your garden , you can however remove any overhanging branches. Like anything where it’s the neibours property it’s best done with his or her agreement - simply cutting off all the overhang could leave the tree unbalanced and ugly to look at , it can also have an effect on the rest of the tree especially conifers. A friend of mine wanted to trim the branches of a sycamore that’s in the next doors garden .it’s a self setter and is very close to both house . Spoke with said neighbours who agreed to pay half each as they wanted their side trimmed. He has since decided to have it taken down completely. The moral - talk to the neighbours and agree a plan . My friend has paid a portion of the cost but he doesn’t have to . However it’s a goodwill gesture on his part and it’s far cheaper ( legal action) to be amicable. Hope this helps ..

 

[ChaiLatte]

...when I'm doing a spot of recreational nuddy chainsawing in the sun.

How totally irresponsible. Please ensure you wear safety flipflops henceforth.

May I ask on the gantry? Is it possible to raise its height with one person only? Or is it a two person operation? Thanks.

 

[Bingy man]

unfortunately scaffold boards will rot quickly, I used some as a retaining wall to create a boarder with landscape fabric etc - lasted 18 months ..

 

[Adam W.]

How totally irresponsible. Please ensure you wear safety flipflops henceforth.

May I ask on the gantry? Is it possible to raise its height with one person only? Or is it a two person operation? Thanks.

It's a one person job to lift and lower. It's rated for 1 tonne so very handy for lifting and shifting wood onto the sawmill bed.