How do you do the roof if making a log cabin?

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woodlearner9810182

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I am a bit flummoxed by this part.

Oh and btw I am interested in using wood only and hand tools. So joints like mortis and tenon and such which only use wood and nothing else to keep themselves together.

Also I mean for just a simple square/rectangular log cabin. Not these complicated reciprocal roundhouse roofs.

It is easy to see from pictures how to make the frame of the walls. Self explanatory mostly for the notched ones where they kiss each other. Forgot the proper name.

I have yet to see a proper explantion of the roof though. Also not sure how to figure it out.

With the walls gravity is on your side whereas if there is a pitched roof, then gravity then goes against you as the logs would want to slide off.

Also if using round wood what does one do to make the main roof material? Roundwood, like on the walls, would just cause water to just curl round the rounded timber and go in the structure wouldn't it rather than run off?

I know you can add whatever you want like slate or grass or anything but is there not a totally wooded way to do it, as with the walls?

Would you have to flatten the timber for the top or can it still be round?

Here is an image where they seem to still use roundwood for the roof, but no idea if the top would be flat from the picture:

https://timberframing.net/wp-content/uploads/sites/12/2023/06/roundwood-timber-framing.jpg

So both the frame itself and the frame covering I would be interested in explanations on.

I am imagining for the frame two rectangles could be made and then a couple of horizontal pieces across, using mortis and tenon or whatever and then for the beams which would go down make notches in each and then peg them or same mortis and tenon.

Is there any resource which has a start to finish explainer? The roof is the part which throws me off and not intuitive from looking at images I have seen so far.

I know ben law's books are supposed to cover this but what about a quick online one?
 
I would assume that the traditional way would be to cut 'slates' with a froe, my neighbours house has cedar slates, which she has mentioned in the past are laid so that they average a triple thickness. If memory serves they are laid on rafters and battens as you would a standard tiled roof.
 
if you follow through the links from the site with the image you showed you get this on you tube (from the same people that took the photo)



that looks about the angle of your average flat roof, and is bound and nailed in place, that said I think they are planning to load earth and grass on that
 
I would assume that the traditional way would be to cut 'slates' with a froe, my neighbours house has cedar slates, which she has mentioned in the past are laid so that they average a triple thickness. If memory serves they are laid on rafters and battens as you would a standard tiled roof.
Ye I am interested in doing things the traditional way as I enjoy the history of the exercise as much as the making of something useful.

Btw is willow suitable for roundwood timber framing. I saw a couple of hits. Is hard wood harder to work with? Whether it is harder or not that is what I have planted! Also what most of the existing, of what little there is, trees are I think.
 
if you follow through the links from the site with the image you showed you get this on you tube (from the same people that took the photo)



that looks about the angle of your average flat roof, and is bound and nailed in place, that said I think they are planning to load earth and grass on that

Not able to watch videos currently due to limited bandwidth.
 
I would assume that the traditional way would be to cut 'slates' with a froe, my neighbours house has cedar slates, which she has mentioned in the past are laid so that they average a triple thickness. If memory serves they are laid on rafters and battens as you would a standard tiled roof.
Here they are called "shakes". I've never heard of them called slates but that may very well be a common language barrier thing. 😉

Pete
 
I’ve always called them Shingles, Douglas Fir I think.
Shingles are usually sawn rather than split here. The shakes being split from the block and more costly due to the handwork and lower yield (thicker). I lived on a 20 acre place as a kid and there were shakes on the barn roof but they were at least 3 feet long with little overlap. An occasional drop of water dripping on a cow not being a big concern when it was built. Pretty sure the available trees dictated what shakes would be made of. Cedar in the western end of Canada. Redwood in California, Cypress in the southeastern states. Not sure what would have been used in the UK but Oak wouldn't surprise me.

Pete
 
I suspect there were many different ways depending on local materials and the knowledge or skill of the builder and a lot of improvising. I don't know if this is the "correct way" but I'd go for a relatively low pitch, peg the outer couple of roof poles to stop then rolling off sideways then plug with a mixture of sand and clay which once dried is practically water proof at least for a time, it can also be baked into a reasonably functional fire brick oi stone is not available and you wanted an internal oven.

Somewhat different project but you may find this site interesting

https://www.patreon.com/gesithasgewissa
 
Shingles are usually sawn rather than split here. The shakes being split from the block and more costly due to the handwork and lower yield (thicker). I lived on a 20 acre place as a kid and there were shakes on the barn roof but they were at least 3 feet long with little overlap. An occasional drop of water dripping on a cow not being a big concern when it was built. Pretty sure the available trees dictated what shakes would be made of. Cedar in the western end of Canada. Redwood in California, Cypress in the southeastern states. Not sure what would have been used in the UK but Oak wouldn't surprise me.

Pete
I have seen beach used, makes a very attractive roof
 
Thatch would be the typical European roof would it not? Since you don't have red cedar to split into shakes, I'd guess your next option might be trunks split in half, hollowed in approximate "C" shapes and laid down like Mediterranean roof tiles. If you don't have a two-handed cupped adze to do that work, perhaps you could use fire to round them out?
 
Shingles/shakes need to be nailed on to thin horizontal laths, you'll probably have to frame the roof like a normal house which doesn't quite sound like your aim.
If you are doing a single pitch at a fairly low angle then the sod roof mentioned above is probably the way to go. Personally I would lay rafters across the roof, joined to the wall plates with scribed lap joints. Make sure you have a decent overhang. I would then split roundwood lengths and lay those on the rafters, curved side down scribed to the rafters. It'll take some trimming with a side axe to get them sitting flush together. Once you have that platform you can put on a suitable membrane and then turf or sedum to suit.
Don't forget you can pin a lap joints with a wooden peg. Oak is good for that. Also a good reason to build a shave horse and buy a drawknife
If willow is what you've got I'd say use it under the membrane. Not the most durable wood but it'll be ok

Take a look at the books by Lloyd Kahn for alternative building. They aren't how to guides but they are brilliant inspiration and I think they'll right up your street
 

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