Galoot Block Plane - WIP

[head clansman]

hi jim

yep here it is ,

http://www.oldtools.co.uk/tools/planes_ ... pl1786.php i'll post some more when i get it .

hc

 

[jimi43]

AH!! I can see right away what you are going to do with that one HC!

Flat rectangular forward tote?

Jim

 

[Benchwayze]

hi jim

yep here it is ,

http://www.oldtools.co.uk/tools/planes_ ... pl1786.php i'll post some more when i get it .

hc

So HC, it was you who beat me to it! :lol: :lol: :lol:

John

 

[head clansman]

hi jim

nope , at the mo I'm thinking along the lines of a coffin makers smoother , chopping it down in length , but who knows , that could change , maybe your right , I'll wait till i get it and play around with for a while, try a few ideas and see whats the best to do with it. stayed tuned . hc

 

[head clansman]

hi john


sorry about that :roll: it fitted the ticket real nice for what i want to do to it .hc :wink:

 

[jimi43]

This was what I was thinking about HC

CLICK HERE PIC BIG

Jim

 

[head clansman]

jim

real nice ain't they hmm maybe , as i said i'll wait till i get it, then play with a few ideas first pass the ideas past you lot first :lol: , this one will be all trial and errors just to see what can be done really and what type of planes could be made from such a donor plane . hc

 

[jimi43]

Yup HC and isn't that rosewood gorgeous!

Ok...before I work on the back frog infill I wanted to remove some hardware as I have decided that it would be too awkward to align the back infill with the existing protrusions.....and I should rather use these for anchors for the infill itself....so I cut them back so as they are below the ramp surface.

The Dremel comes into its own here but be very slow...and take care not to stress the fine cutting disc or snap it...

It worked rather well...OH...and as Norm would say...there is no greater protection than safety goggles!!

Back later...

Jim

 

[jimi43]

I was dreading the next bit with the rear infill but it went surprisingly well...

Lots of mucking around with the edge to get the back flush but it is nearly there...just a little cleaning up to do...........

I antiqued the mahogany to get it a lot darker as would be expected with age...I just love the way the natural redness of the mahogany is enhanced with dark brown powder stain...mixed with meths...I can't be done with the water based stains...there is still no polish at this stage....

I roughed out the inside and this needs a lot of head scratching tomorrow as, being a small plane...it is difficult to get the Dremel in there..or any other abrasive...not sure what I will use to get this nice and smooth where it shows...

I am leaving it rough where it is to be glued up.

What glue do you think would work here? I was thinking a two part epoxy for this job...suggestions welcome!

Cheers guys

Jim

 

[Benchwayze]

Looking good Jim. Nice work.

It's not going to be easy, getting the iron-work looking polished, between the infills.

I am at aloss to think of a way to go through 'the grades' of abrasive. But I'm sure someone on the forum will come up with an answer.

Regards

John

 

[head clansman]

it's coming on nicely jim , someone correct me here if i'm wrong the retaining cross bar is there a screw slot in one end so it can be removed ? if so, might make life a bit easier for you to polish the inner cheeks . hc

 

[Philly]

Jim
Epoxy is the way to go - go for normal araldite, not the five minute one.
Cheers
Philly

 

[Vann]

...someone correct me here if i'm wrong the retaining cross bar is there a screw slot in one end so it can be removed ? if so, might make life a bit easier for you to polish the inner cheeks .

Good thinking HC. My Stanley 130 and Rapier 110 both have screwed and slotted cross bars, but an old no-name 0110 body appears to have the cross bar rivetted or an interference fit, so good luck Jim.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[xy mosian]

Hi. It's going to be a good looking plane!
As for finishing the inside, For awkward bits I use abrasive glued to lolly pop sticks, the flat ones.

xy

 

[head clansman]

hi vann

I went on the stanley 130 as well , and my other small planes ref the screw slot , I couldn't be sure about jims plane as it show the side with no slot in most off his pics the only shot of the opposite side isn't clear enough to make out if there a slot in the end of the bar or not, hope there is one makes life a wee bit easier . hc

 

[jimi43]

Cheers for the comments and tips guys!

So...epoxy it is then...I never ever use the fast epoxy...it's completely different to the orginal...but thanks for reinforcing that Phil.

Yes...the crossbar is interference fit...I am still thinking about what to do with that at the moment...thanks for the lollypop stick idea xy...nice one!

If I go for the traditional Norris type lever plate...then I could probably use the holes vacated by the bar, suitably enlarged to fit the mounting studs....or I could do a plain wedge, or maybe a combination of the two retaining the original idea of groved wedge with an adjuster as per the original but in brass....

Mmmmm....what do you guys think will look best?

I loved the original and now VERY rare - Shoe-buckle design:

Picture courtesy of: The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore Planes #100 1/2 - #140

I think I would like to emulate that...I wonder if I could possibly carve a rendition of that buckle into a wedge....mmm

Ideas ideas....keeps the brain of an old fart going!



Off to get some new epoxy! I think my stock is a tad old!

Jim

 

[eoinsgaff]

If, hypothetically speaking, in a situation like this there was a few gaps to be filled, could a fine dust be mixed with the epoxy to fill any gaps or should it be added once the epoxy is in place?

Or, should the dust be mixed with the epoxy to be used as a filler only, not a glue?

Or non of the above maybe?

Eoin

 

[jimi43]

Eoin...I was thinking the very same.....

Because I wanted to move the infills around a bit to adjust the seating, the inside was drilled and chiselled out to give a hole that was not obviously an exact tight fit to the hardware sticking up.

I don't need the glue to fill all of the orfices but I need it to go quite a way up and around the metalwork.

Some glues are compromised by mixing with contaminents such as dust...but I think epoxy is pretty good at doing this. If there were any slight gaps I was going to match this with hot wax (dark brown) so it became almost invisible. But, even though the above picture shows slight gaps it is because I had not clamped them tight. They do fit in most parts.

The only spaces I will have left will be my **** up on the front infill where I cut the edge channel all the way to the end (DOH!). In my experience....hot wax is pretty good at matching invisibly...hence why traditional French Polishers use it where problems cannot be sorted any other way...

I look forward to views on this though...

Jim

 

[wizer]

Love this plane! What size is it? It'd look very pretty if it was shiny 8) 8)

 

[jimi43]

This is one of the first Stanley 110 planes Tom.

It was called the "Shoe Buckle" model for obvious reasons....!

I think this is the oldest...

(photo courtesy of www.hanbrunnertools.gil.com.au)


Wouldn't it be lovely to recreate such work as homage to that beautiful moulding work?

I think that mahogany would be too prone to split out for carving...although I am willing to have a go.

I need to search my "treasure bin" for a bit of rosewood I think...

Jim