Forum users' Table saws

[big soft moose]

Hi
Can anyone provide a manual or wiring diagram for this bench saw please by email?

jking01 (at) aol.com

Much appreciated

jason your post is caught in the spam trap it will clear after three posts -

however freindly tip not the greatest plan to put your email on line as webcrawlers will pick it up for spam - and you'll get swamped - better to write it like i have in the quote above

 

[toolsjason1]

Hi
Can anyone provide a manual or wiring diagram for this bench saw please by email?

jking01 (at) aol.com

Much appreciated

jason your post is caught in the spam trap it will clear after three posts -

however freindly tip not the greatest plan to put your email on line as webcrawlers will pick it up for spam - and you'll get swamped - better to write it like i have in the quote above

Cheers mate very new to this my email is jking016 at aol.com

 

[JMcK]

Kity 619

 

[vincent]

Scheppach TS2000 = 1

 

[Chems]

Sip 10" with Sliding Table

 

[Lons]

Sip 10" (01332) - no additions as yet but want a sliding table

 

[tisdai]

Axminster TS-200, Got it from thier ebay site and it will be delivered on Tuesday. So not seen it properly yet so fingers crossed lol

Dave

 

[shipbadger]

Just bought a SIP 01332 and sliding carriage, two problems; the weather is too cold to be handling chunks of cast iron and the wheels are on back order to arrive some time in January. Still I've read the instructions three times now and they're beginning to make sense

Tony

 

[monkeybiter]

I've ordered an AW12BSB2 to come some time later this month [don't think it will fit down the chimney], it's a lot more than I need at the moment, but I reckon it should be up to anything I ever want to do with it , and should see me out.

 

[Ateallthepies]

I have the TS-200 as of a week or two ago and it seems like a decent starter saw.

I have done some mods to tune it up a bit like adding delrin runners and bolts to make the fence glide without chattering, replaced the blade with a 220mm version to be able to get a true 65mm depth of cut as with the original I was only getting 55mm at full stretch and even less with the crown guard in place. Also made a zero clearance plate.

The blade was true to the mitre slot and fence with about 0.2mm tolerance front to back.

Overall very happy but these can be refined with a bit of work and well worth the effort IMO.

Steve.

 

[tisdai]

I have the TS-200 as of a week or two ago and it seems like a decent starter saw.

I have done some mods to tune it up a bit like adding delrin runners and bolts to make the fence glide without chattering, replaced the blade with a 220mm version to be able to get a true 65mm depth of cut as with the original I was only getting 55mm at full stretch and even less with the crown guard in place. Also made a zero clearance plate.

The blade was true to the mitre slot and fence with about 0.2mm tolerance front to back.

Overall very happy but these can be refined with a bit of work and well worth the effort IMO.

Steve.

Hi Steve

What clearence are you getting with the 220mm blade in, and where did you get the delrin runners and bolts to make the fence glide without chattering. Have you got any pics for us to have a gander at

CHeers

Dave

 

[Ateallthepies]

Dave,

There is still plenty of clearance below the table in the metal chip sucky guard thingy (expert here!!!). I did have to re-cut the riving knife back about 10mm or so and re-bevel. Also the shims needed a tad removed as well. I now run a Freud Pro LP30M 020 blade.
With the larger blade it still can be wound below the table but not by much and is almost flush.

I bought a sheet of 1.5mm PTFE and lined the bottom of the fence and bevelled the two long edges so they do not snag on the mitre slots.
With the same stuff I lined the fence clamp where it rests on the rail and also the back edge where it rests against the side of the rail. I used a polyofin plastic primer and super glue for this. All metal to metal contact is now gone.

Plastic was bought from Direct Plastics On-line (good to deal with) and the primer from Ebay.

I noticed when sliding the fence it ran smoothly but still juddered so drilled and tapped two 6mm holes in the bit that faces you and goes over the rail and made two Delrin screws that when in place rest lightly against the rail and stop the play when sliding the fence left and right. A couple of lock nuts stops it moving when set up.

It works like a dream and glides smooth without chattering with one finger if thats your thing!!

I will do a review with piccies if anyone wants and will be better than my descriptions above ?

Steve.

 

[tisdai]

Dave,

There is still plenty of clearance below the table in the metal chip sucky guard thingy (expert here!!!). I did have to re-cut the riving knife back about 10mm or so and re-bevel. Also the shims needed a tad removed as well. I now run a Freud Pro LP30M 020 blade.
With the larger blade it still can be wound below the table but not by much and is almost flush.

I bought a sheet of 1.5mm PTFE and lined the bottom of the fence and bevelled the two long edges so they do not snag on the mitre slots.
With the same stuff I lined the fence clamp where it rests on the rail and also the back edge where it rests against the side of the rail. I used a polyofin plastic primer and super glue for this. All metal to metal contact is now gone.

Plastic was bought from Direct Plastics On-line (good to deal with) and the primer from Ebay.

I noticed when sliding the fence it ran smoothly but still juddered so drilled and tapped two 6mm holes in the bit that faces you and goes over the rail and made two Delrin screws that when in place rest lightly against the rail and stop the play when sliding the fence left and right. A couple of lock nuts stops it moving when set up.

It works like a dream and glides smooth without chattering with one finger if thats your thing!!

I will do a review with piccies if anyone wants and will be better than my descriptions above ?

Steve.

Hi Steve

Thanks for the info i appreciate it , and a review with pics would be great m8.

Cheers

Dave

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

Axminster, AW10BSB2

 

[wysong]

General 350 , Powermatic 66, ,SAC SC4,Hendrick Rail saw

 

[tomouse]

Altendorf F90 & one on my Startrite Robland K250 combi

 

[Charlie Woody]

Jet JTS-250S

 

[bubbabear]

Startrite TA300

 

[Shane]

Axminster AW12BSB2 with a couple of mods - sliding table extended with lock added, blade tilt locking knob beefed up, riving knife trimmed down to just below blade height, and a saw table dust extraction guard arriving on monday

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Scheppach TS 4010 with all the trimmings. _Dan.