Graham Orm
Established Member
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plasplugs...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3f24a6fd7c
(homer) :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
(homer) :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
bugbear":1assqebb said:Jacob":1assqebb said:...I do think that flattening is usually achieved sufficiently every time you turn a chisel over to remove the burr -
Unless your stone were to have a hollow, in which case you're creating a convex back as well as a convex bevel. :lol: :lol: :lol:
BugBear
Certainly would. A nicely hollowed out stone can produce the camber you need really easily. I found this out when I once flattened a stone (experiment) and suddenly found sharpening got slightly more difficult. OK for chisels too - the shallow camber you have on plane blades works fine on a chisel though I imagine there are circumstances when you might want a dead straight edge, but I can't quite think what they would be.wem":1lc2gi1q said:bugbear":1lc2gi1q said:Jacob":1lc2gi1q said:...I do think that flattening is usually achieved sufficiently every time you turn a chisel over to remove the burr -
Unless your stone were to have a hollow, in which case you're creating a convex back as well as a convex bevel. :lol: :lol: :lol:
BugBear
I've been thinking about this a bit recently and would a slightly concave arkansas/waterstone give the desired camber to a blade that we emulate with jigs, techniques?
Jelly":1qrnl41p said:Jacob, I actually have a situation in which it can be useful to have a flat bevel (none of this primary & secondary nonsense)... if you flip your chisel over and use it bevel down (I do this fairly often when tidying up stray fibers at the bottom internal corners of stopped rebates, mortices and the like) then being able to make the chisel ride on that flat makes it that little bit easier, I have a few narrow chisels which are sharpened nice and flat for that reason... For doing the work of a chisel (rather than an improvised router plane) it doesn't seem to matter what shape the bevel is, so long as there is one, it's not ridiculously steep and it ends in a sharp bit.
Exactly what I have been saying for some time now!matthewwh":9s3uebx1 said:You can't avoid the rocking motion with freehand honing, in fact you will achieve far greater speed and consistency by going with nature and finding a comfortable flowing movement than you will by fighting it and trying to achieve a flat bevel. ........
Over the years I've wrecked a few chisels, usually on site - if a fine bevel edged parer is all you have in the box that's what you have to use (to get the lid off etc etc. :roll: ). It's only a fairly cheap tool and the job is usually worth a lt more.Jelly":24fi8804 said:I can't be the only woodworker out there who doesn't have a grinding wheel right? I don't get all of this "off the wheel" stuff, I've never come across a way to damage a chisel or plane iron (used properly) so badly that I couldn't get back to a decent edge with a coarse stone.
In fact I've probably only re-ground 3 chisels in all the time i've been woodworking (which actually belonged to work and were discovered being used as glorified tin openers), I moved the tool rest round to the side and used the flat side of the wheel to take the concavity out after taking the material off.
Jacob":1sk12zoh said:Over the years I've wrecked a few chisels, usually on site - if a fine bevel edged parer is all you have in the box that's what you have to use (to get the lid off etc etc. :roll: ). It's only a fairly cheap tool and the job is usually worth a lt more.
Jelly":1l6vzzhn said:I can't be the only woodworker out there who doesn't have a grinding wheel right? I don't get all of this "off the wheel" stuff, I've never come across a way to damage a chisel or plane iron (used properly) so badly that I couldn't get back to a decent edge with a coarse stone.
In fact I've probably only re-ground 3 chisels in all the time i've been woodworking (which actually belonged to work and were discovered being used as glorified tin openers), I moved the tool rest round to the side and used the flat side of the wheel to take the concavity out after taking the material off.
Jelly":18hm174i said:I moved the tool rest round to the side and used the flat side of the wheel to take the concavity out after taking the material off.
Racers":dudgvtqa said:Hi, JH
I borrow the one at work for chipped plane and chisel blades, its a pain to use but takes the out hard work.
Pete
Enter your email address to join: