first plough plane?

[custard]

Garrett Hack on scratch stocks -- worth a watch --

http://www.finewoodworking.com/2008/07/ ... atch-stock

+1

Like most woodworkers I've ended up with quite a few different scratch stocks,

But the ones I use for virtually all straight moulding work, are the same style that CStanford linked to. Most UK makers I've met who use them tend to build them a little larger than the ones in the video, but it's the same principle. They're easy to make up using everyday jig making hardware

You just have to be careful to match the kerf slot to the actual thickness of your cutter material, so you get a snug fit. The huge advantage of this style of scratch stock over the traditional "L" shaped design is that you can tip the scratch stock forward to accommodate some grain directions...

...but then tip the scratch stock back the other way to gain a sweeter cut if the grain switches direction.

If there's a downside to this style of scratch stock (besides the obvious fact that it's no good for curved work) it's that there's no built in depth stop.

But in practise that's easy to deal with, you just put a pencil line where the apex of the bead (or other moulding) will be,

And when the pencil line disappears, you're done,

My personal favourite tool for bead work in figured stock is a traditional wooden beading plane with a 55 degree pitch, that gives a burnished result that's 100% finish ready. But this style of scratch stock runs it a very close second; plus it costs virtually nothing, the range of cutters is almost infinite, and in my experience you're pretty much guaranteed tear out free results,

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hi Custard

I completely agree with you that a beading plane is to be prefered to a beading iron in a plough plane. The absence of a mouth in the plough makes it very vulnerable to tear out. I had given up on this method until Lee Valley/Veritas brought out the modification for their Small Plow, and my curiosity was piqued. I purchased a few beading blades, and was reminded why I avoided the plough for beading. It occured to me that a higher cutting angle might make a difference, which is does. However, I am not pushing this method, especially for the interlocked woods I use.. I prefer to use scratch stocks, either using Hacks design, which you posted, or a #66 beader.

Thanks for the tip to rub pencil on the top of the bead. That is a very good one. The down side to some scratch stocks is that they lack a depth stop. This will help.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Trafalgar]

...and in other news, mouth aperture supposedly has nothing to do with tear out prevention in other planes... :wink:

I guess if it's all you've got, it all of a sudden magically works. Amazing, isn't it?

 

[ED65]

...and in other news, mouth aperture supposedly has nothing to do with tear out prevention in other planes... :wink:

I guess if it's all you've got, it all of a sudden magically works. Pretty cool!

Still missing the point there Charles?

Rhetorical question, don't feel compelled to answer. I know you're trolling or posting for your own amusement but it's not helping those who don't know what's what re. cap iron setting versus mouth size.

 

[Trafalgar]

It's about shoes, ships, sealing wax, babies and bathwater.

 

[Woody2Shoes]

...But in practise that's easy to deal with, you just put a pencil line where the apex of the bead (or other moulding) will be, And when the pencil line disappears, you're done,...

Yet another top tip!

 

[Trafalgar]

I've seen more than my share of antiques and have yet to see a perfect bead on one yet. Could 'damage' have come from later refinishing and restoration attempts? Yes, but I've seen plenty with original finishes and they all have little 'discrepancies' in the scratched and planed mouldings that do nothing but add charm.

Relax. Don't worry.

If you want the bead to look machine made then my suggestion is to use a machine to make them. Climb-cut with a quality, table mounted router on its highest speed and you'll have exactly what you had envisioned. Run them on a piece an inch or two too long and trim. Voila, 'perfection,' but I'm afraid a very boring perfection, and one that may belie a lot of other handwork you've done on the project. That's no good.

 

[ac445ab]

Hi
I found the Record 044 particulary efficient and handly in cutting grooves. Even if it has not beading cutters, I appreciate it for the easier cutting depth adjusting than the Record 050.

Ciao
Giuliano

 

[DTR]

Custard, in my innocence I've never seen a scratchstock like that, but it makes perfect sense. Thanks for posting!