FINISHED - Multi-function workbench WIP

[Krysstel]

Just a quick update on dog-hole drilling.
I decided on a 2 fold approach.
First I drilled about 5mm of every hole using the 19mm forstner bit, the Axi drill stand mounted on a quick jig and an electric drill.
I then changed to a 19mm spade and drilled the whole depth, however after hitting a screw in the third hole I had to change to an 18mm for the other holes
Finally I changed back to the forstner and reamed out the holes to a nice finish.
Worked great but I only managed 13 of 26 holes in the space of about 2 hours work.

Mark

 

[Boz62]

Well done Mark. Yes, it's hard work. I looked into Ollie's suggested bits but they seemed far too scary :evil:. Good luck with the rest of them - its worth the effort, just for the lack of clamps for a lot of jobs .

Boz

 

[Henning]

Just a quick update on dog-hole drilling.
I decided on a 2 fold approach.
First I drilled about 5mm of every hole using the 19mm forstner bit, the Axi drill stand mounted on a quick jig and an electric drill.
I then changed to a 19mm spade and drilled the whole depth, however after hitting a screw in the third hole I had to change to an 18mm for the other holes
Finally I changed back to the forstner and reamed out the holes to a nice finish.
Worked great but I only managed 13 of 26 holes in the space of about 2 hours work.

Mark

Mark,

I have a couple 19mm. Spade drills if you need.

Looking very good this far, keep up the good work!

 

[Krysstel]

A quick question about finishing.
For the bench tops and aprons I'm planning two coats of this followed by two coats of thinned out this after recommendation from Karl's bench.
The problem is it'll be a bit of a job to get the tops off again to finish the underneaths and backs.
Is this really necessary bearing in mind that the tops are 2 layers of titebonded 19mm MDF with 28mm oak aprons on all 4 sides ?
Will I really end up with banana shaped tops if I only finish the visible sides ?

Mark

 

[Krysstel]

Nobody got an idea about the finishing ?
I'm planning to do it tomorrow.

Mark

 

[Paul Chapman]

I just use Liberon Black Bison wax polish on mine. Keeps it looking nice and stuff like dried glue is easy to remove. Just re-apply when it's starting to look a bit scruffy. If you use wax polish don't use any with silicone in it as this can adversly affect anything you are making when it comes to applying finishes.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Boz62]

I used Fiddes Hard Wax Oil (similar to Osmo PolyX) just to seal things up and stop it flexing with time and humidity. I did both sides while the worktop was off and accessible. It also makes it easier to scrape off glue and paint , which is why I even bothered to do the inside of dog holes - easy clean . It was what I had a tin of - would have used Danish happily if I'd had any instead, it's only a bench. Still debating whether to wax as well - the sheen finish of the waxoil is matt enough to stop things sliding around too much while working.

Boz

 

[Krysstel]

Nobody's got any advice about finishing both sides or not, which was my original question ?

 

[Boz62]

Sorry, can't help, I've always varnished/waxed both sides of items just in case, even MDF. I would have thought MDF would be a lot less vulnerable than real wood though?

Boz

 

[Paul Chapman]

Nobody's got any advice about finishing both sides or not, which was my original question ?

If you are in any doubt, then it's always best to apply finish to both sides, although I doubt that it would be too critical with your bench.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Karl]

Krysstel

Apologies for not responding to your query in my thread - I must have missed your post.

I didn't bother doing both sides of my top. 4 layers of MDF - I doubt there'll be any issue.

One final point. When I did mine, I noticed that the lacquer (in particular) was quite thick. I would consider getting some of the cellulose thinners and thin it down a bit to make application easier. I'm going to put some on my next Axminster order.

Also, application by brush gives a thick coat and, hence, a glossy finish. I have been finishing some other oak faced MDF tonight for a job i'm doing, and have been experimenting with applying the lacquer by rag - applying a thin coat with each application. After 2 coats give it a light rub over with some 400 grit and then a final coat. After the final coat give it ONE wipe over with some 1200 SiC. Gives a lovely smooth finish, and not too glossy.

HTH

Cheers

Karl

 

[Krysstel]

Brilliant Karl, just what I needed to hear.
Sounds like doing only one side will be OK even though I've only got 2 layers of MDF.

I've already used the lacquer on the cupborad doors and discovered it was thick, as you say, and I ended up thinning it down a good 50%.
I'll try the rag application, although I was quite happy with the large soft brush I used - gets it on quick and you don't have much time !
Thanks for the help.

Mark

 

[Krysstel]

Bench-dog holes done

Shelving in right hand cupboard modified and 170 degree hinges fitted to make storing of the removable bench section possible.

Mekkemikkel - note the colour of the handle :wink:

SCMS fitted using 2 lengths of Rockler t-track and 4 cam-clamps

Two coats of sanding sealer + 2 coats of Melamine Lacquer.
FINISHED

At last !
Mark

 

[Paul Chapman]

That looks great, Mark =D>

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Boz62]

That looks great Mark. Well done. I wish you many happy hours of using it

Boz

 

[Triggaaar]

I love it Mark, a great bench. I hope I find this thread again when I make one.

 

[Henning]

Very, very nice, Mark!

I wish you many happy hours using it!

 

[Mekkemikkel]

Great work mate!!

And a smart solution on the shelf over your insert top storage!

Ps! Love the color on the handle! It's all in the details! :wink:

 

[Benchwayze]

Looks like a nice neat and strong build nice work definately.

One thing though, aren't the point of thoses effing little screw feet to go on an akward floor?

Yep!

But they look like the kind of adjusters used in kitchens. They level the cupboards OK, but a kitchen cupboard stack isn't going to take quite so much 'heavy-work' as a workbench. (Accurate and stress-free planing for instance, is something that needs an immovable bench! )

I think the concrete 'plinth' would be the way to go, if it's feasible.

Regards
John

 

[Krysstel]

I think the concrete 'plinth' would be the way to go, if it's feasible.

Regards
John

The concrete plinth was the way to go and page 2 of this post confirms it :lol:
I agree that the Axi adjusters are not much more than kitchen cupboard feet but they're OK so long as they're not adjusted too far out.
And I can confirm that the completed bench with double layer MDF tops, 9" vise, SCMS and cupboards full with compressor and various power tools is totally immovable

Mark