fight with router, router won, obviously. recommendations

[ondablade]

;-) Sorry HC. I must have been thinking of the good old boy variety of klansman from the deep south....

 

[head clansman]

hi

it's ok , no no i'm not one of KKK mob . hc :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[wooden-inspiration]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9444926@N04/4588907709/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9444926@N04/4589528732/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9444926@N04/4589529936/

lets see if that works

 

[head clansman]

hi

see if what works :?: .hc

 

[wooden-inspiration]

members posted that they wanted to see what setup i was currently using and i was not sure how to post pics so hence the lets see if that works.

see the item you added a link to HC, at axminster, how would that work? maybe need to youtube it, thank you all for your continued feedback and info

Andy

 

[9fingers]

Yes that is working now. I did wonder about your earlier blank post!

I assume from the positions of the wood, that you were not using the fence and just guiding with the bearing?

You should really be using a guide pin fixed in the table but that only help you start a new cut.

Really you need a split fence covering most of the cutter, a feather board and some form of push stickso that you are not even touching the work piece.

Bob

 

[head clansman]

hi Andy

from the pics you sent it wont work on your machine as it appears to be Ali base worktop , no magnetization need to be a steel base worktop to be able to hold , but also from the pics , and you probably don't want to hear this , there is no way i would machine a piece of timber like that .

I learnt my lesson yrs ago , i use a rubber suction mate and use a portable hand held router for most things ,both hand on the router and not as you have just found out to your cost , sorry .

ax minster system works like :- place timber up against the fence , but your fence has no cut out to house router bit , and then timber next to fence , next place feather board against timber with enough pressure to slightly bend feathers and turn locking knobs to lower magnet to steel bed when in contact with steel bed it locks into imposition,to move it you have to apply a great deal of force . hc

 

[Oryxdesign]

Even with a bearing guided cutter I like to keep my fence right up against it, with a feather board above and adjacent if poss.

 

[wooden-inspiration]

the guide fence was not being used at this time, I learned a lot of things in hindsight, but my lesson is use that accident to make sure this dont happen again, so I now looking at the dedicated router table and use all the accessories. anybody for the kreg PRS2000?

 

[promhandicam]

members posted that they wanted to see what setup i was currently using and i was not sure how to post pics so hence the lets see if that works.

see the item you added a link to HC, at axminster, how would that work? maybe need to youtube it, thank you all for your continued feedback and info

Andy

Andy,

Your current set up doesn't have a split fence so you are just running the timber against the bearing on the cutter which isn't a good idea particularly as you don't appear to have a lead in pin that helps to support the work when you start the cut. I have this router table from Rutlands which only costs £100 and would be a great improvement on what you have. You can easily make feather boards and a push stick to use with it or buy them if money is no object.


HTH,

Steve

(edit - sometimes you can't type fast enough - some of what I wrote has already been said :lol: )

 

[Oryxdesign]

Lots of people here have made and would recommend making your own router table, it can be very simple or very elaborate.

 

[head clansman]

hi

sensible move , and no i don't want it . hc :lol:

 

[wooden-inspiration]

HC you mention rubber suction Ill have a look at that but do you have place to get them from?
Steve had a look at rutlands and the bench looks good, how long have you used it and do you feel it offers good safety?
thanks to all posters.

Andy

 

[promhandicam]

I've had the bench about 18 months and used it quite a lot - I'm self employed and I've made quite a lot of fitted furniture using it. The only thing that I've bought extra is an NVR switch so that I don't have to reach underneath to turn my router on and off. As I mentioned earlier, I've also made feather boards that can be attached with clamps to the fence and the table to restrain the work.

Steve
http://www.allford.co.uk

 

[head clansman]

hi Andy

its call ax minster anti slip mate see here http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... e=1&jump=0

I have used one for yrs and never had it slip once . hc

 

[danielhuw]

now looking at the dedicated router table and use all the accessories. anybody for the kreg PRS2000?

Hello Andy.

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I use the larger version of the Kreg PRS2000. I think the actual top and fence are the same though. It's an excellent piece of kit.

For me, the most important safety aspect is to make sure the router bit is covered from all sides. From behind with the fence, and from above and the front with feather boards http://www.axminster.co.uk/product....er_id=Kreg&name=&user_search=&sfile=1&jump=48 You could always make your own too.

Feed from the side (obviously), but never let hands pass in front of the router bit whilst holding the work piece. Use a push stick, or pull from the other side. Always use effective extraction and don't cut more than a third of the diameter deep at any one pass.

I know the horse has already bolted for you, but always worth reminding each other.

Dan