Fettling an Axminster TS-200 Tablesaw

[jimi43]

Well I think you are doing really well considering the design constraints that you are encountering.

I was looking at the Scheppach again today and thinking further about the dust issue. I think that keeping dust away from moving parts is a major consideration...especially since they tend to be at the very limit of their designed functionality with no dust onboard!

I am wondering if sealing of these sections with perspex might be an option. Or at least deflecting the offending dust flow - like a thin rubber curtain maybe?

This makes a very interesting topic...I think on mine that the bottom hopper is probably the best solution...after all you have gravity and suction working for you and a HUGE amount of dust ends up on the floor under mine even WITH suction from the back.

More head scratching needed methinks!

I hope your taking notes so that you can tell us all how to do it at the Kent Bash!!! :wink:

Jim

 

[wizer]

I hope your taking notes so that you can tell us all how to do it at the Kent Bash!!! :wink:

hahah that's the funniest thing I've heard all week. You reckon I'll be finished this by March ?? :-k Very unlikely! :lol:

 

[newt]

Something else which is odd to me. When you wind the blade down the pulley is pushed against a cranked metal bar:


SU.

Tom I really don't like the look of that belt rubbing against the metal bar, it cannot be good for the belt. However not sure how you could resolve.

 

[9fingers]

Something else which is odd to me. When you wind the blade down the pulley is pushed against a cranked metal bar:


SU.

Tom I really don't like the look of that belt rubbing against the metal bar, it cannot be good for the belt. However not sure how you could resolve.

I agree. I assume that bar was kept away from the belt when the dust cover was in place?

What does it do? anything useful? maybe it could be removed/reshaped.

I really do hate these 'bent metal' machine designs - really nasty!

Bob

 

[wizer]

Your guess is as good (much better in fact) as mine. It seems like it was meant to be. The blade cowl does not affect it any way. I think it shifts it out of the way when the blade is lowered for some reason. When the blade is fully up then the belt is free. That bent strip of metal looks like it will remove easily. Maybe I will to see if the belt interferes with anything without it.

 

[WellsWood]

Must be something wrong there, surely? It simply can't be right for the belt to be rubbing on anything, let alone be interfered with to the extent of twisting it like that. That offending strip of metal surely must have a purpose, any idea what it is? What does it do once it has disappeared through the slot on the right? It looks as if it might be a cantilever arm designed to keep the riving knife horizontal as the blade travels up and down. If it were flat, would it still line up with the mountings boths ends and still go through the slot without interferance, or does it need to be crankedto avoid something? If it would work just as well when flat I'd strip it out and take a big hammer to it. Any chance of a look at it from a different angle, one that shows the bend and both ends would be most enlightening I think.

BTW Tom, I can't find any obvious fault with your preliminary plan for the cart. I particularly like the outfeed table and the design of the pivot/support arms - but I would recommend adjustable mountings between the arms and the table as it would remove the need for super accurate drilling of the pivot holes to true up the outfeed table to the main saw top.

 

[TrimTheKing]

I'm almost certain that bar shouldn't have a bend in it Tom. Looking at your manual it is listed as part number 16 and described as a 'long plate' and the diagram shows it as being straight.

I know these manuals are cheap and chearful but by any design rules there is no way on earth that the belt should be touching any other component when it can possibly be running.

I would take it off, tw@t it about with a hammer until straight and stick it back in.

Or, see if you can fabricate something else up, the same LxWxH, but straight, as a temp measure and test the movement mechanism with that. If it all still moves okay then there's no reason why it shouldn't work.

You got any flat bar knocking around you could try it with?

 

[jimi43]

I reckon that that bar has been force bent because the whole assembly has been locked in place at one time and then the winder turned with force to try to move it.

The result was that the mechanism did not move but the bar bent.

Would this be possible?

I tried making sense of the diagrams in the manual to see what the other end of the bar connects to so that I could see if this is possible but it is one of those bits that crosses diagrams.

A closeup photo down into the box into which the bar disappears would be a help mate.

Cheers

Jim

 

[WellsWood]

.... by any design rules there is no way on earth that the belt should be touching any other component when it can possibly be running....

Abso-fookin-lutely!

 

[wizer]

Right I just nipped out to take some photos. It's not the easiest thing to photograph.

Indeed in the diagram it seems that that part should be straight. I'm sure you're all right, but I don't ever remember cranking the wheels hard enough for something like that to bend. As far as I can see that would be the only way the user could bend that part. The bend that's clearly visible by the belt looks intentional to the untrained eye, but the bend further back is clearly not meant to be.

The question is, what does it do? and what caused it to bend?

Sure I can take it out and try to flatten it or replace it, but what if it does it again?

Thanks guys

 

[jimi43]

I would take it out.

Make a copy of it out of something similar..probably thin hardwood would do..and put the replacement back and what what it does.

That bar should be straight and has been force bent by the look of it.

Jim

 

[WellsWood]

Right, I'm 99% certain I know what the problem is.

You see that bit with a double 90 crank in it - the one with the 2 bolts for attaching the riving knife? Well undo the strap from it at the bolt between the 2 pulleys and see if it's free to move around the arbour. If, as I suspect, it's seized then there's the issue. figure out how to get in there and free it up, straighten the bar and re-install, and I reckon you're good to go.

A look at the exploded parts diagram might help to confirm. Are they online somewhere, or can you email me a copy? I could pop round breifly tomorrow if you're about, seeing it in the flesh I reckon I could suss it easy-peasy.

 

[jimi43]

Do you not think that bar may now be weak Mark?


Also Tom...is that gunk all over the arbour and surrounding metalwork or rust? It looks like surface corrosion from the pics but may be mistaken.

Looking at the pictures again and from what Mark said I think he is spot on there.

Jim

 

[wizer]

I'm going to have to re-read that a couple of times to understand it. I'll pop back out there later to see if I can work it out.

I'm here all day tomorrow, just let me know a rough time if you're able to pop in.

Jim, I'll have to double check, but I don't think it's rust. I did spray some silicone in there yesterday, so it might be some that I've missed when cleaning up.

 

[TrimTheKing]

I'm going to have to re-read that a couple of times to understand it. I'll pop back out there later to see if I can work it out.

I'm here all day tomorrow, just let me know a rough time if you're able to pop in.

Jim, I'll have to double check, but I don't think it's rust. I did spray some silicone in there yesterday, so it might be some that I've missed when cleaning up.

Saved you some time Tom,

 

[wizer]

Thanks Mark. Get it now. Will play in the morning.

A look at the exploded parts diagram might help to confirm. Are they online somewhere, or can you email me a copy? I could pop round breifly tomorrow if you're about, seeing it in the flesh I reckon I could suss it easy-peasy.

There are some (diabolical) exploded diagrams in the manual, here:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/downloads//manual_600822.pdf

Cheers guys, I nearly didn't mention that bent bar :roll:

 

[9fingers]

Let me know if you want a new, stronger bit making assuming that the part does something useful.

Bob

 

[TrimTheKing]

Let me know if you want a new, stronger bit making assuming that the part does something useful.

Bob

Without actually seeing it in the flesh I am with Mark (WellsWood), I think it controls the height of the riving knife when you wind the blade down.

Thinking about it Tom, you were looking for a way to shorten the knife below the blade height IIRC. I can't think ATM whether that bar would need to be longer or shorter (shorter I think), but I'm certain that either lengthening or shortening it would achieve what you are looking for.

Would probably make a new one out of thicker flat stock to make sure it has the oomph to do its job as Bob suggests.

Might turn out to be a fortuitous mention...

 

[wizer]

you were looking for a way to shorten the knife below the blade height IIRC

Nope, I already did that when I first got the saw by trimming the top of the knife.

I think you're right, a thicker sturdier part is less likely too bend in the future.

 

[9fingers]

I can't really think why the riving knife has to move differently from the blade arbour. Surely the top of the knife just has to be level or higher than the the tips of the blade.

I'm sure it is fixed on my TS?

Bob