Fettling an Axminster TS-200 Tablesaw
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jimi43
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TrimTheKing
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Yep, I would concur with that assessment. The way I did it Tom was to loosen the two bolts at the front (as you stand in normal cutting stance), and the rear one on the RHS. Then tap either left or right sides of table at front until your slot lines up.jimi43":t30gq9cj said:
Test again once you tighten the bolts to make sure you havent distorted it and if not then you are away.
Also, I haven;t read your whole sled post but did you check out Niki's on the jigs section? I followed that when I made my original and I still use it now. HTH
Kalimna
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I shall look forward to the conclusion of this thread, as I still have my shiny new TS200 still in it's box from this date last month. And I gather that setting up a TS isnt quite a case of 'Insert bolt A into hole C'. I just havent got around to unpacking it yet 
Cheers,
Adam
Cheers,
Adam
Surely if the motor is attached to the table loosening the table to case bolts will move the table and the motor not the blade. Should you not loosen the motor to the table and bang the motor?
Or have I misunderstood?
Mick
Or have I misunderstood?
Mick
jimi43
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I don't think the motor/arbour assembly is mounted to the table top. I think it is mounted on the base...do you have the other exploded photo Tom...the one that shows the blade assembly mount?
Jim
Jim
wizer
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No it's definitely mounted to the table Jim
I don't think the manual will be much help
http://www.axminster.co.uk/downloads//manual_600822.pdf
I don't think the manual will be much help
http://www.axminster.co.uk/downloads//manual_600822.pdf
9fingers
Established Member
That manual is awful!!
I would guess that the blade carrier (trunnion) hangs from the two blocks numbered 72.
So loosening the un-numbered screws that secure those to the table should allow adjustment
Does that make sense?
Bob
I would guess that the blade carrier (trunnion) hangs from the two blocks numbered 72.
So loosening the un-numbered screws that secure those to the table should allow adjustment
Does that make sense?
Bob
jimi43
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Not very clear is it Tom...doesn't help that the motor and mount diagram is on its side!! My neck - my neck!!
Seems to be mounted to 72 which are then mounted to the table top as you say....so that means that doing the adjustment as I previously said will have no effect whatever on the alignment. I think you need to adjust the mounts 72 then which are aligned relative to the hole in the table and thus the alignment of the blade to the slot.
These should be mounted by two bolts per plate either end of the slot.
Jim
Seems to be mounted to 72 which are then mounted to the table top as you say....so that means that doing the adjustment as I previously said will have no effect whatever on the alignment. I think you need to adjust the mounts 72 then which are aligned relative to the hole in the table and thus the alignment of the blade to the slot.
These should be mounted by two bolts per plate either end of the slot.
Jim
jimi43
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AH!!!
I got it now!
I was looking at the first exploded picture in the handbook and turning it anticlockwise to righten whereas it should be CLOCKWISE...that makes the carrier 48!!
If you look at that...it has two prongs which allow the whole blade assembly to hang from blocks 72 and thus swing to give the bevel adjustment angles!
If you loosen ONE end (the end that is closest to the side of the plate hole...) and then move the assembly to zero adjustment both ends of the blade THEN tighten the two bolts this will tighten the block 72 onto that swivel at the right place...and if you then check both ends they should be symetrical!
What a HORRIBLE way of adjustment!
Now off to put a pack on my neck muscles!!
Cheers mate and good luck!
Jim
I got it now!
I was looking at the first exploded picture in the handbook and turning it anticlockwise to righten whereas it should be CLOCKWISE...that makes the carrier 48!!
If you look at that...it has two prongs which allow the whole blade assembly to hang from blocks 72 and thus swing to give the bevel adjustment angles!
If you loosen ONE end (the end that is closest to the side of the plate hole...) and then move the assembly to zero adjustment both ends of the blade THEN tighten the two bolts this will tighten the block 72 onto that swivel at the right place...and if you then check both ends they should be symetrical!
What a HORRIBLE way of adjustment!
Now off to put a pack on my neck muscles!!
Cheers mate and good luck!
Jim
9fingers
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Digit":1pjn3r1u said:
That's why I reckon he should go for the Wadkin down in Devon :lol:
Bob
jimi43
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Hey Tom...I am off work until 5th February if you want me to pop over and do the lifting bit?
Jim
Jim
I've had to do this on my TS200
the adjustment is not the bolts that hold the table to the case but the bolts that hold the blade/motor to the table. which I think is the conclusion you've all arrived at anyway.
they go through the two aluminium block things (item 72 on the picture)and I found them a complete pig to adjust as their placement makes it almost impossible to get any finesse on the tapping required to adjust.
In the end I turned the saw upside down, completely removed the bolts and aluminium blocks, cleaned it all, removed any burrs or lumps on the blocks and table where they 'run' to ensure it wasn't catching, lubricated the running area with Vaseline and put it all back together. It adjusted better after that.
One word of caution - once I got it straight was very pleased until I needed to cut at 45 degrees and the blade couldn't tilt that far without touching the table as the carriage was too far over to the left (as you use it). so check that before you put everything back together.
It is a naff adjustment though
the adjustment is not the bolts that hold the table to the case but the bolts that hold the blade/motor to the table. which I think is the conclusion you've all arrived at anyway.
they go through the two aluminium block things (item 72 on the picture)and I found them a complete pig to adjust as their placement makes it almost impossible to get any finesse on the tapping required to adjust.
In the end I turned the saw upside down, completely removed the bolts and aluminium blocks, cleaned it all, removed any burrs or lumps on the blocks and table where they 'run' to ensure it wasn't catching, lubricated the running area with Vaseline and put it all back together. It adjusted better after that.
One word of caution - once I got it straight was very pleased until I needed to cut at 45 degrees and the blade couldn't tilt that far without touching the table as the carriage was too far over to the left (as you use it). so check that before you put everything back together.
It is a naff adjustment though
woodbloke
Established Member
Out of interest, if you decide to improve the extraction, all that internal guarding stuff needs to be removed, all the holes blocked up and a conical hopper built underneath, which is then hooked up to the extractor - Rob
wizer
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Stoaty, thanks for those tips, I think it was your thread that I was remembering.
Rob, I had been thinking along those lines. So the blade cowl comes off? My thoughts were to use something like this:
in the bottom of the saw and extract from below. That means I can plug all the holes in the back and give me the clearance I need for a flip up outfeed table.
Rob, I had been thinking along those lines. So the blade cowl comes off? My thoughts were to use something like this:
in the bottom of the saw and extract from below. That means I can plug all the holes in the back and give me the clearance I need for a flip up outfeed table.
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