Facing off a vase

[JerryP]

Hi everyone,

I’m starting to get a (slight) feel for my new Coronet Herald, but as a certified newbie, can anyone point me to a good explanation of how to finish the top face of a bud vase? I keep getting quite nasty catches that tear the neck apart. The YouTube videos that I have seen don’t cover this bit in any detail, and although I think I’m doing the same thing, I’m obviously not…as the piece flies out of the chuck (again) and tears the neck apart. I’ve looked at Mike Waldt’s beginner’s bud vase, and Martin Saban Smith’s version, but just don’t seem to get it.

Can anyone help? Please?

Thanks,

Jerry.

 

[Paul Hannaby]

Treat it like hollowing end grain so your cuts should be from centre to edge to cut with the grain. Make sure the tool is properly sharp and apply minimal pressure. If the tool is cutting too aggressively, rotate it more anti-clockwise until you reach a point where you are in control.

 

[JerryP]

Treat it like hollowing end grain so your cuts should be from centre to edge to cut with the grain. Make sure the tool is properly sharp and apply minimal pressure. If the tool is cutting too aggressively, rotate it more anti-clockwise until you reach a point where you are in control.

Thanks Paul. I’ve immediately seen one thing - I’ve been cutting slightly upwards rather than out from the centre. Hopefully, even though it’s Christmas Eve, I’ll get a chance to give your directions a go. I’ll let you know what happens.

 

[Orraloon]

The longer the piece of work extends from the chuck then the more any cutting forces will want to deflect it sideways. Its always good practice where possible to support the end with the tail stock. Learning ways to do really fine cuts and not deflect the work is one way. Easier way is support the tail stock end. One way to do this is with a cone of scrap wood in the bud vase hole at the tailstock end. Shape the mouth of the opening. You can cut into the cone a bit but leave enough for support. End result gets sanded, cone gets discarded.
Regards
John

 

[Paul Hannaby]

The longer the piece of work extends from the chuck then the more any cutting forces will want to deflect it sideways. Its always good practice where possible to support the end with the tail stock.
Regards
John

If you are hollowing the end, it doesn't leave anywhere to use tailstock support...

 

[Orraloon]

Bud vase the neck is drilled out so stick a wood pin down the hole then use the tailstock. Trim up the mouth and then remove wooden pin.
Regards
John

 

[JerryP]

Bud vase the neck is drilled out so stick a wood pin down the hole then use the tailstock. Trim up the mouth and then remove wooden pin.
Regards
John

Sounds like there’s several good ways to tackle this. The vases have been about 10” long, so I suspect that the length/deflection ratio has been greater than my skill level! Lots for me to try here - and I think I’ll do so on shorter pieces. Thank you for all the ideas.

 

[Blister]

I work slightly different , I do the outside to the desired shape sand and finish , The do the 1st inch of the inside , Then the next then the next finishing as I go , Leaving some meat on the inside adds stability as you are working your way down.

 

[Orraloon]

Sounds like there’s several good ways to tackle this. The vases have been about 10” long, so I suspect that the length/deflection ratio has been greater than my skill level! Lots for me to try here - and I think I’ll do so on shorter pieces. Thank you for all the ideas.

Thats the beauty of turning and woodwork in general as there ar defferent ways to get something done and always some problems to solve. In your case as they are quite long support becomes more important. Since writing my last comment I looked at the Mike Waldt clip. It looked all good advice for doing that small pot. I noticed he did mention support where possible and did use the tailstock whenever he could. Another point to check is getting a good fit on the chuck jaws. Do it like in the video and things should be fine. Lastly developing a fine cut for bits like that is something to work on and having the tool sharp is important. A scraper can sometimes be handy for really light cuts and less likely to cause a catch.
Regards
John

 

[Stigmorgan]

Let's assume your vase is spindle orientation so you are working end grain, I usually drill the hole then work inside out.
If you are turning it with the blank on "bowl" orientation then you would work outside in.
I'd be happy to video call with you to see if I can spot the issue

 

[JerryP]

Let's assume your vase is spindle orientation so you are working end grain, I usually drill the hole then work inside out.
If you are turning it with the blank on "bowl" orientation then you would work outside in.
I'd be happy to video call with you to see if I can spot the issue

Hi.

A very many thanks for the offer of a video call. I've escaped Christmas into the workshop and will be trying some of the suggestions on a piece of spindle scrap. I'll let you know how it goes before I bother you with calls - here's hoping!

 

[JerryP]

After a series of tests on a piece of sycamore. I think I'm getting the best result working out from the centre using a swept back spindle gouge with the flute at about 10 o'clock and the handle very low. The cut is just above centre, and with the nose of the gouge. Provided I take very gentle cuts, this seems to give me repeatable results. The attached photo is as-cut, with no sanding or finishing done to it.