Facing off a vase

[JerryP]

Hi everyone,

I’m starting to get a (slight) feel for my new Coronet Herald, but as a certified newbie, can anyone point me to a good explanation of how to finish the top face of a bud vase? I keep getting quite nasty catches that tear the neck apart. The YouTube videos that I have seen don’t cover this bit in any detail, and although I think I’m doing the same thing, I’m obviously not…as the piece flies out of the chuck (again) and tears the neck apart. I’ve looked at Mike Waldt’s beginner’s bud vase, and Martin Saban Smith’s version, but just don’t seem to get it.

Can anyone help? Please?

Thanks,

Jerry.

 

[Paul Hannaby]

Treat it like hollowing end grain so your cuts should be from centre to edge to cut with the grain. Make sure the tool is properly sharp and apply minimal pressure. If the tool is cutting too aggressively, rotate it more anti-clockwise until you reach a point where you are in control.

 

[JerryP]

Treat it like hollowing end grain so your cuts should be from centre to edge to cut with the grain. Make sure the tool is properly sharp and apply minimal pressure. If the tool is cutting too aggressively, rotate it more anti-clockwise until you reach a point where you are in control.

Thanks Paul. I’ve immediately seen one thing - I’ve been cutting slightly upwards rather than out from the centre. Hopefully, even though it’s Christmas Eve, I’ll get a chance to give your directions a go. I’ll let you know what happens.

 

[Orraloon]

The longer the piece of work extends from the chuck then the more any cutting forces will want to deflect it sideways. Its always good practice where possible to support the end with the tail stock. Learning ways to do really fine cuts and not deflect the work is one way. Easier way is support the tail stock end. One way to do this is with a cone of scrap wood in the bud vase hole at the tailstock end. Shape the mouth of the opening. You can cut into the cone a bit but leave enough for support. End result gets sanded, cone gets discarded.
Regards
John

 

[Paul Hannaby]

The longer the piece of work extends from the chuck then the more any cutting forces will want to deflect it sideways. Its always good practice where possible to support the end with the tail stock.
Regards
John

If you are hollowing the end, it doesn't leave anywhere to use tailstock support...

 

[Orraloon]

Bud vase the neck is drilled out so stick a wood pin down the hole then use the tailstock. Trim up the mouth and then remove wooden pin.
Regards
John

 

[JerryP]

Bud vase the neck is drilled out so stick a wood pin down the hole then use the tailstock. Trim up the mouth and then remove wooden pin.
Regards
John

Sounds like there’s several good ways to tackle this. The vases have been about 10” long, so I suspect that the length/deflection ratio has been greater than my skill level! Lots for me to try here - and I think I’ll do so on shorter pieces. Thank you for all the ideas.

 

[Blister]

I work slightly different , I do the outside to the desired shape sand and finish , The do the 1st inch of the inside , Then the next then the next finishing as I go , Leaving some meat on the inside adds stability as you are working your way down.