Ender 3 S1 Pro

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pgrbff

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My Ender 3 V2 was put away because the results were inconsistent and I was spending too much time on forums and not always getting the best advice.
I have asked a few questions about getting my Ender 3 V2 working here, and a few upgrades have been suggested.
It turns out that doing the upgrades, dual axis, Direct Dual-Gear-Extruder, Sprite or micro swiss, with hot end, and a CR touch will cost 50 euro short of an Ender 3 S1 pro.
The question is, does the latter work out of the box? Or does it need lots of tinkering?
 
I upgraded my original Ender 3 to within an inch of its life. It is now a very capable and reliable printer. I did the upgrades over a long time period so I did not notice the drip drip of funds into the printer though.

My advice to you would be to buy a Sovol SV06 rather than an Ender 3 S1 pro. It is cheaper and appears to have better reviews than the Ender 3 S1 pro. If the reviews I have seen are anything to go by the SV06 works great out of the box without any messing around.
 
It's difficult to know for sure (in terms of tinkering), but it also depends on what you want to use the printer for. I'm still running the original extruder + hot end (on my Ender 3 v2) albeit with some mods) and it's fine for PLA and PETG. It (being a Bowden setup) will not work for flexible filaments, and the whole thing isn't ideal for any exotics (carbon fibre nylon etc).

As you already have an Ender 3 V2 I'd suggest focussing on the areas that caused you issues; additions such as better bed springs and a CR or BL Touch are not particularly expensive, and will make a huge difference to first layer consistency.

From there I'd highly suggest a magnetic flex plate bed (I wouldn't be without one).
 
I have an Ender 3 S1 Pro and was able to print pretty much out of the box. Auto bed levelling seems to need a bit of assistance (there's a couple of useful YT videos on that) and printing more complex shapes such as screw threads may need other parameters setting. I had to drop to 0.1mm resolution and play with the nozzle temp to get that to work. Getting a cover may also be useful, print quality seems sensitive to drafts and dust and I had to take mine out of the workshop and put it back in the house after printing quite a bit of spaghetti.
 

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