Drill table: I'm thick, and the MDF isn't!

[Eric The Viking]

I've been planning a drill table for some while now. I haven't finalized the dimensions etc, yet, but here's the general idea (ex-Sketchup):

The table thickness isn't yet to scale, although the track dimensions, the drill position and cast table dimensions underneath are exact.

The problem is the nice laminate-finished MDF I'd set aside for this: I think it's too thin to take the T-track. The tracking is 12.33mm deep by 18.75mm wide. The faced MDF I have is 15.75mm thick.

I could put ribs on the bottom, but it would mess-up the look of the thing a bit, although if the clamps underneath came off the ribs it might be easier to fit.

Questions: What thickness of MDF should I use for the table and fence? Can I get the required thickness already laminated, or should I laminate it myself (or is laminate a bad idea because it's too slippery???)?

Or is it better, say, to do it in ply, shop-laminated to the right thickness?

If someone's got a bought table with T-tracking, please could you tell me what thickness MDF was used for the table?

It doesn't need to be perfect, nor built like a brick 'outhouse' but I don't want to make it twice in a hurry.

As ever, all thoughts appreciated,

Thanks,

E.

PS: The routed slots for the fence sliders were a first idea that I haven't taken off the model yet. I'll probably run the table T-tracks to the back to eliminate them, and, if I don't put ribs on the table, the clamps underneath will fix to or through the T-track extrusion too, for extra strength.

 

[Henning]

You could route down the needed amount for the T-track in the laminated MDF, then add a piece of regular MDF in 19mm. for instance which wraps around the table of the drill press. I have a square table on mine and have done that, although i used a piece of UHMW- plastic as the top.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Good idea.

There is a bottom edge all around the circular table underneath. I was going to rout a matching groove, cut a circle out of the centre, and use that as the clamp to hold the table on top, but your idea is neater.

E.

 

[nanscombe]

Could you glue a piece of ordinary MDF underneath to make it thicker?

If the second piece were slightly smaller, say 1cm all round, it wouldn't be so visible unless you looked hard.

 

[Benchwayze]

Eric,

If you can get MDF that's exactly the thickness of the T-track, you don't really need to rout channels for it. just build the table surface around the T-track, in laminations.

If you do decide to rout, to get the depth right, put the cutter in your router.
Place the base of the router across two pieces of track resting on a flat surface.
Set the cutter depth down to the surface on which you laid the t-track.
A perfect depth gauge. (I use this method to rout channels for bookcase strip, so it's flush fitted. Works a treat)

I should think 18mm MDF would be fine for your table. Maybe 20mm is better if you can buy it.

For my alternate design I can't use sketch-up, so I'll try to explain.

I'm considering a table design with a substantial Aluminium angle fence. There will be two slots routed through the flat, behind the 'fence'.
Two 8mm bolts sticking up through the table, accept the slots, with Bristol Levers for tightening. (The same design as the Trend, Tufnol Router table they produced about ten years ago. ) No need for T-track at all. The fence moves in and out guided by the two bolts. The range of movement under the quill of a drill press is quite small, so I felt that a sliding fence provided all the adjustment necessary.


HTH
Regards

John

 

[markturner]

Wow, this is spooky !! Today I just took delivery of my new Sealey pillar drill. I got it primarily to help producing the mortices on the legs of the bench I am making and made the first one tonight. The drill however came without a vice and it quickly became apparent to me that for accurate useage, I was going to need some way of mounting and holding the work in the correct alignment. I have spent the last hour pondering the best way to do this, and then lo and behold, i come across this thread!!!!!

I was approaching the problem slightly differently, in that I thought that the best way was to have a table that was not attached to the drill, rather than mounted on its table. I figured it would be more stable and solid that way, but as I have not got the drill mounted on a permanent position yet, will have to get it on a good solid movement free mount and then fix the table to that. The table on my drill does not lend itself easily to attaching some kind of table to it either.

Were you going to use the rail for featherboards etc? I was just going to make the table out of 25mm MDF with a rear fence and stop, so you could clamp stuff in position.

I would be interested to see ideas for the best way to approach this. What do you have your drill mounted on?

Cheers, mark

 

[Benchwayze]

Wow, this is spooky !! Today I just took delivery of my new Sealey pillar drill. I got it primarily to help producing the mortices on the legs of the bench I am making and made the first one tonight. The drill however came without a vice and it quickly became apparent to me that for accurate useage, I was going to need some way of mounting and holding the work in the correct alignment. I have spent the last hour pondering the best way to do this, and then lo and behold, i come across this thread!!!!!

I was approaching the problem slightly differently, in that I thought that the best way was to have a table that was not attached to the drill, rather than mounted on its table. I figured it would be more stable and solid that way, but as I have not got the drill mounted on a permanent position yet, will have to get it on a good solid movement free mount and then fix the table to that. The table on my drill does not lend itself easily to attaching some kind of table to it either.

Were you going to use the rail for featherboards etc? I was just going to make the table out of 25mm MDF with a rear fence and stop, so you could clamp stuff in position.

I would be interested to see ideas for the best way to approach this. What do you have your drill mounted on?

Cheers, mark

You could bolt down the base of your drill first. (Say on a purpose built cupboard) Then build a table on a 'sled' each side of the drill base. That would hold it firm and steady. The sleds would have to be exactly the same thickness as the hight of your table casting, so the table lies flat on the casting. Just mark the centre of the table with a dimple.
You need to have the table removable so you can use a machine vice under the quill. But you knew that I am sure! :wink:

HTH

John

 

[Eric The Viking]

Sorry: was out for the day yesterday with SWMBO -- Sidmouth via Axminster (can't think why ). Heard a Bittern at dusk on the Levels - never actually heard one 'live' before even though I've lived in the area for over 35 years!

Anyway, John, regarding the tracks on the design:

The lower fence one is for distance stops. The upper fence one, and the pair let into the actual table, are for clamps/hold downs. I probably won't be milling with this arrangement, so won't be using a featherboard, but sometimes it's easier to clamp from above rather than the front/sides.

I recently separated a T-track from my commercial router table by clamping too enthusiastically. :-( I think in this case I"ll be bolting it through the table rather than using screws. I had a quick look at the Axminster design yesterday, and am convinced I can do a bit better. It's mainly that the fence isn't tall enough, although I may be silly to try to make a general-purpose one, and possibly better off with one short and one tall.

Regarding attachment to the drill table, I've come up with this:

The holes in the corners should align with the T-track above, to bolt through. I may not need the 60-degree orientated holes, and I might split the plate for convenience of fitting/removal. Not sure yet.

If I can find thick enough MDF, I might adopt Henning's idea too, of a circular recess on the underside to help it locate - this table has to be mount/dis-mountable fairly easily, as the drill still gets used for a lot of metalwork too.

Regarding MDF thickness of the table, have decided to look around to see what's available locally. I might, possibly, just reinforce the area around/under the tracks with extra MDF or ply.

This is turning into an interesting discussion...

E.