Drill 30mm hole through ash

[drenwick]

Hi there,
I am a novice, looking for some advice please.
I need to drill two 30mm holes through a 80mm Ash beam. They need to straight and parallel to the edge and each other as the holes are to take solid 30mm aluminium rods.
I've been looking at using a 30mm Auger drill bit with a drill fixed to a stand. From what I can see though, none of the stand will drill deeper than 60mm (most are 50mm). If I use these then I guess that I would just stop say 40mm into the material and then lower the entire drill so I could drill through. Would this work and give me the accurate, parallel hole I need?
Also, for he Auger drill. Will it 'rip' through the beam? Is it the right bit to use?

Any help appreciated.

dave

 

[marcus]

Depending on the degree of accuracy needed you can get pretty close if you get someone else to sight you as you drill freehand - ie to stand at the side and tell you whether you are off vertical so you can adjust.

 

[AndyT]

If you are talking about drilling deep holes into the end grain, parallel to the length of the beam, I would suggest that you get hold of a hand brace with a decent size of throw and an old auger bit from a secondhand dealer. You would need a 1 1/2" bit which is probably close enough to 30mm. The length of the drill bit (probably around 12" / 300mm) will give you plenty to line it up by eye or by using a block. The Gedge pattern is probably better than the common Scotch or Jennings for end grain.

The job would be slow but you would avoid the risk of suddenly going away from the direction you want.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If your piece of ash is on a bench, assuming the sides are parallel mark both sides and go half way from each with a forstner. If not do as you suggest, put the side you wish at right angles to the hole on the bottom with a piece of packing and drill straight through. If your ash "beam" is fixed somewhere, you might be better getting someone to sight it for you (as above).

 

[Argus]

.

Are you contemplating using a hand electric drill in a stand to drill 30mm (1 ¼”) holes?
You may find that it’s too much for the drill; it may stall, spin back on you or burn out…

A sturdy pillar drill will do the job, but don’t use an auger with a lead screw in any power drill. It is likely to stall as I said or rip through without control. Power drills will deliver far more speed than you could do by hand in a brace.
A pillar drill works best with a forstner type.

A 30mm auger in a brace will do the job, but it’s hard physical work at that dimension and you may find that the modern variety with a fluted end as opposed to a tapered square tip will jump in the chuck of a hand brace – they always do for me.

However, once started in a hole on the straight and narrow, a keen, sharp screw auger will cut in a straight line with little guidance.

I think that sighting two right angles at the same time is a bit fraught in my opinion, even with someone you trust, but you can make a simple jig from some square blocks of scrap that will do the trick.
Rather than explain in detail here, have a look at this link where I cut two similar sized holes in Ash when making a carver’s chops.
Scroll down to the fourth photo.

http://handmadeinwood.wordpress.com/201 ... -assembly/

All best

 

[Jacob]

If it'd work with your design one simple cheat would be to drill a much bigger hole and then close it off to 30mm, either with a washer, or by stopping short and drilling just the last bit at 30mm.
It's a well used technique for joining big timbers side by side with long bolts; except for the start and finish of the hole everything else can be well over size and not necessarily accurate. Square even - done on a morticer.

 

[drenwick]

Great suggestions thanks very much.
I think that as the rods only have to "appear" to go through the beam I should go with Jacob's suggestion. I'll use a stand to drill a vertical pilot hole through the beam and into the adjoining beam (something like a 6mm). Then use a forstner bit to drill the 30mm hole just down to about 30mm on both sides of the beam. The pilot hole should help me keep these lined up.

A 30 forstner bit in a piller drill will do this without making a mess of the surface?

Does that sounds like a plan?

My next question for all the old-hands out there. Why is there such a price difference in the cost of the bits? A quick search reveals 30mm forstner bit's for as little £3.07 to £30.00. Can anyone suggest a quality make?

Thanks again

 

[Argus]

A 30 forstner bit in a piller drill will do this without making a mess of the surface?

Does that sounds like a plan?

Yes - if the surface is a bit raggy, put some sticky box tape down first to minimise tear-out then drill through it.

My next question for all the old-hands out there. Why is there such a price difference in the cost of the bits? A quick search reveals 30mm forstner bit's for as little £3.07 to £30.00. Can anyone suggest a quality make?

Expensive drill = Quality.

If you are only using it for 2 holes go as cheap as you dare.
If you want it to last years and give clean holes time after time pay for the best.

All best

 

[Lee J]

would it be advisable to pre drill the holes first with a series of 8mm or 9mm holes to reduce some of the waste to cut through?

 

[WoodMangler]

would it be advisable to pre drill the holes first with a series of 8mm or 9mm holes to reduce some of the waste to cut through?

You'd lose the guidance from the Forstner bit's pilot drill - I'd do the 30 mm Forstner holes first.

 

[nanscombe]

Surely not if the holes were purely to remove some of the waste whilst leaving the centre intact.

 

[zb1]

I use a 1+1/2" auger daily for drilling mortises in timber. You need a slow speed drill, a sharp drill bit and be sure to back the bit out to clear the flute before the drill starts straining and the bit bites. I have a 38mm and a 32mm Marples auger that cut to 150mm deep without too much hassle. Google marples r215 for the bits. One tip for clean holes, stop drilling as soon as the worm breaks the surface on the opposite face then go in from the other side using the hole as a centre for the worm.

P.S. I should add this is all done freehand. Be careful of the bit biting and DO NOT use the trigger lock on the drill if it has one or the consequences can be messy.

 

[matthewwh]

Famag bormax forstners work extremely well, you shouldn't need the carbide version for ash unless it's really old and gnarly.

They also do extensions for drilling at greater depth.

No need to reduce the waste, if anything having consistent density of material will make it easier.

Forstners are not self feeding (like augers) so you control the feed rate rather than the screw dictating it. As mentioned above, things can get a bit hairy if the worm takes over!

If you can hang on til Wednesday they'll be a bit cheaper

I've also got 30mm brad point bits, (again not self feeding) they are designed for softwood but if it's fresh ash and you take your time you should be OK.

 

[Jacob]

A 30 forstner bit in a piller drill will do this without making a mess of the surface?

Does that sounds like a plan?

Yes - if the surface is a bit raggy, put some sticky box tape down first to minimise tear-out then drill through it.

My next question for all the old-hands out there. Why is there such a price difference in the cost of the bits? A quick search reveals 30mm forstner bit's for as little £3.07 to £30.00. Can anyone suggest a quality make?

Expensive drill = Quality.

If you are only using it for 2 holes go as cheap as you dare.
If you want it to last years and give clean holes time after time pay for the best.

All best

In fact very cheap spade bits will do for most purposes, and are easy to sharpen. I'd certainly try them first. NB don't attempt pilot holes!!
You could regard all other bits as 'specialist'.

 

[matthewwh]

Jacob's right - if you just want a piece of wood with an 'ole in it, spade bits are a very cost effective option.

I'm not so sure that they would "

give me the accurate, parallel hole I need?

" though.